10-19-2007, 12:53 PM | #101 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kapahulu Safeway
Posts: 281
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It weighs about 6.5 lbs.
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10-19-2007, 05:26 PM | #102 |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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10-19-2007, 05:58 PM | #103 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: White Lake
Posts: 764
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Aother sweet rig from the bender, looks great! |
10-19-2007, 07:24 PM | #104 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Kapahulu Safeway
Posts: 281
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10-19-2007, 07:31 PM | #105 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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Thanks for the compliment Bam Bam. | |
10-19-2007, 09:49 PM | #106 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 606
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Do you think the max tranny yokes will connect to jato shafts, i know you are using max shafts, but I've got a bunch of jato shafts. Right now I have the metal yokes on the tranny and villain yokes on the axles but I have a feeling the villain yokes aren't gonna last too long.
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10-19-2007, 10:04 PM | #107 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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10-19-2007, 10:40 PM | #108 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 606
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The Villain was a boat that traxxas use to make, maybe the still do. They have metal bases that are pressed into the plastic yokes. I thought they might work a little better than the pede stuff but they seem to be kind of brittle. I guess I need to get some more metal yokes or the jato specific ones. Here's a link: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGBH2&P=7 |
10-19-2007, 10:43 PM | #109 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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10-19-2007, 10:43 PM | #110 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Perkasie PA & Port Norris NJ.
Posts: 134
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Stampeed metal yokes on Jato shafts or stock Peed shafts...
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10-19-2007, 10:50 PM | #111 |
Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA
Posts: 6,532
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If you run Jato shafts, just run the jato yokes, I have yet to break one or have one pop out, and I've broken several CVD's since I've been running them.
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10-19-2007, 10:55 PM | #112 |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
| Are the Jato's splines timed? You run dig with them right? Does the rear shaft engage at any point, or do they only go together one way?
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10-19-2007, 11:02 PM | #113 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 606
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Sorry for the hijac Brad! The Jato's are timed 180 degree's, so the yokes always match up. I don't know how these guys would run dig like that, i don't run dig anyway. I'll be getting some Jato yokes shortly, just incase these Villains crap out early.
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10-19-2007, 11:03 PM | #114 |
Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA
Posts: 6,532
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They are splined for 180*, just like pede or maxx ones, with 2 of the male splines being a little shorter than the rest. Taking a file to the other splines to knock them down a bit is how I got mine to engage at every point, and there are 8 splines so it only takes 1/8th of a turn. The best way would be to make the 2 female splines deeper, but I couldn't figure out a way to do it. I wasn't happy with how mine worked(it would get hung up sometimes and not disengage in a bind) and as I'm not very patient when it comes to fabbing stuff, I switched to an R2d2 yesterday. Works like a dream now, but the drawback was adding a servo to the chassis.
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10-19-2007, 11:06 PM | #115 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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10-19-2007, 11:21 PM | #116 |
Keep it real Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Yakima,WA
Posts: 6,532
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I never ran dig until after I got back from the Axial comp, and my attempt to fab mine was quick, and it worked good at first, but slowly started being unconsistent. If a guy spent some time, and figured out a way to deepen the female splines, I think the Jato's would be the ticket. Also, knowing/being around those who have run dig for a long time like Miniwheeler and Warpig(which I hadn't until this spring/summer)would have helped me, as their stuff just works every single time, flawlessly.
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10-23-2007, 11:13 AM | #117 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 412
| I run dig using the pede shafts and it works perfect 95% of the time. The only time I've had problems re-engaging is when I'm fully flexed out one way or the other on the rear. At our last comp I saw the R2 refuse to engage on command and kill a good run. I've found the trick is to chamfer the cut shaft to match the end of the stock. It engages better. I also put some slot car geear grease on the dig shafts (It's plastic friendly). I've got to go through a lot of pro-pack shafts to add up to an R2 tranny |
11-04-2007, 08:40 PM | #118 |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
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I was lucky enough to recieve one of the first new Grappler rock crawler bodies from Losi. I've got a little run time on it, and so far I like it. Very light and narrow, which is great for a comp body. |
11-04-2007, 09:02 PM | #119 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: MESA, AZ.
Posts: 1,043
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Lookin Good Rick- |
11-04-2007, 09:17 PM | #120 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Where it's wet
Posts: 833
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new lid looks great |
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