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Thread: My latest SW3 build........Good-bye Bug, Hello Grappler

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Old 10-19-2007, 12:53 PM   #101
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It weighs about 6.5 lbs.
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Old 10-19-2007, 05:26 PM   #102
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It weighs about 6.5 lbs.
Did you drill breather holes in your wheels? If so, how big are they?
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Old 10-19-2007, 05:58 PM   #103
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Aother sweet rig from the bender, looks great!
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:24 PM   #104
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Did you drill breather holes in your wheels? If so, how big are they?
I drilled two holes. I can't remember exactly. I think they are about 3mm in diameter. A 3mm screw will thread into them nicely.
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:31 PM   #105
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I drilled two holes. I can't remember exactly. I think they are about 3mm in diameter. A 3mm screw will thread into them nicely.
I usually run just one 1/8" hole in each wheel. Maybe try putting some electrical tape over one hole and see if it helps.

Thanks for the compliment Bam Bam.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:49 PM   #106
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Do you think the max tranny yokes will connect to jato shafts, i know you are using max shafts, but I've got a bunch of jato shafts. Right now I have the metal yokes on the tranny and villain yokes on the axles but I have a feeling the villain yokes aren't gonna last too long.
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:04 PM   #107
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Do you think the max tranny yokes will connect to jato shafts, i know you are using max shafts, but I've got a bunch of jato shafts. Right now I have the metal yokes on the tranny and villain yokes on the axles but I have a feeling the villain yokes aren't gonna last too long.
I'm don't think they will. The Maxx yokes are quite a bit bigger then the Jato yokes, if I remember right. What are villain yokes? I've never heard that term before.
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:40 PM   #108
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The Villain was a boat that traxxas use to make, maybe the still do. They have metal bases that are pressed into the plastic yokes. I thought they might work a little better than the pede stuff but they seem to be kind of brittle. I guess I need to get some more metal yokes or the jato specific ones.

Here's a link:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGBH2&P=7
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:43 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by metomwhou View Post
The Villain was a boat that traxxas use to make, maybe the still do. They have metal bases that are pressed into the plastic yokes. I thought they might work a little better than the pede stuff but they seem to be kind of brittle. I guess I need to get some more metal yokes or the jato specific ones.

Here's a link:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGBH2&P=7
Ah I see. I've never seen anyone use those yokes before, so I wasn't sure what they came off.
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:43 PM   #110
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Stampeed metal yokes on Jato shafts or stock Peed shafts...
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:50 PM   #111
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If you run Jato shafts, just run the jato yokes, I have yet to break one or have one pop out, and I've broken several CVD's since I've been running them.
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:55 PM   #112
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If you run Jato shafts, just run the jato yokes, I have yet to break one or have one pop out, and I've broken several CVD's since I've been running them.
Are the Jato's splines timed? You run dig with them right? Does the rear shaft engage at any point, or do they only go together one way?
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Old 10-19-2007, 11:02 PM   #113
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Sorry for the hijac Brad! The Jato's are timed 180 degree's, so the yokes always match up. I don't know how these guys would run dig like that, i don't run dig anyway. I'll be getting some Jato yokes shortly, just incase these Villains crap out early.
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Old 10-19-2007, 11:03 PM   #114
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They are splined for 180*, just like pede or maxx ones, with 2 of the male splines being a little shorter than the rest. Taking a file to the other splines to knock them down a bit is how I got mine to engage at every point, and there are 8 splines so it only takes 1/8th of a turn. The best way would be to make the 2 female splines deeper, but I couldn't figure out a way to do it. I wasn't happy with how mine worked(it would get hung up sometimes and not disengage in a bind) and as I'm not very patient when it comes to fabbing stuff, I switched to an R2d2 yesterday. Works like a dream now, but the drawback was adding a servo to the chassis.
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Old 10-19-2007, 11:06 PM   #115
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Quote:
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They are splined for 180*, just like pede or maxx ones, with 2 of the male splines being a little shorter than the rest. Taking a file to the other splines to knock them down a bit is how I got mine to engage at every point, and there are 8 splines so it only takes 1/8th of a turn. The best way would be to make the 2 female splines deeper, but I couldn't figure out a way to do it. I wasn't happy with how mine worked(it would get hung up sometimes and not disengage in a bind) and as I'm not very patient when it comes to fabbing stuff, I switched to an R2d2 yesterday. Works like a dream now, but the drawback was adding a servo to the chassis.
Yeah, that's what I was wondering on the re-engaging of the shafts. The R2D is looking better and better. But, I've got to try it my way first.
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Old 10-19-2007, 11:21 PM   #116
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I never ran dig until after I got back from the Axial comp, and my attempt to fab mine was quick, and it worked good at first, but slowly started being unconsistent. If a guy spent some time, and figured out a way to deepen the female splines, I think the Jato's would be the ticket. Also, knowing/being around those who have run dig for a long time like Miniwheeler and Warpig(which I hadn't until this spring/summer)would have helped me, as their stuff just works every single time, flawlessly.
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:13 AM   #117
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Yeah, that's what I was wondering on the re-engaging of the shafts. The R2D is looking better and better. But, I've got to try it my way first.
I run dig using the pede shafts and it works perfect 95% of the time. The only time I've had problems re-engaging is when I'm fully flexed out one way or the other on the rear. At our last comp I saw the R2 refuse to engage on command and kill a good run. I've found the trick is to chamfer the cut shaft to match the end of the stock. It engages better. I also put some slot car geear grease on the dig shafts (It's plastic friendly). I've got to go through a lot of pro-pack shafts to add up to an R2 tranny
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:40 PM   #118
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I was lucky enough to recieve one of the first new Grappler rock crawler bodies from Losi. I've got a little run time on it, and so far I like it. Very light and narrow, which is great for a comp body.
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Old 11-04-2007, 09:02 PM   #119
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Lookin Good

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Old 11-04-2007, 09:17 PM   #120
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new lid looks great
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