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Thread: 2.2 TLT build up!

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Old 06-07-2005, 03:56 AM   #41
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: May 2005
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krap my redirect host is pooing on me please be paitent while they fix themselfs. And return to see the piccies
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Old 06-07-2005, 09:34 AM   #42
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You can definitly polish TI. I made a TI ring out of a MTB handlebar years ago andits polished. TI is neat stuff you can take a torch to it and change the color of it to blue, purple, orange. gold, damn near any color. I haven't tried changing the color then polishing. Hmmm....

Oh and you'll have to get another set of the stampede driveshafts then take a male & female and cut the u-joint ears off the male end. Then glue the cut male end into the female end about halfway. You'll have make sure you have enough slip but I was running a 13.5" WB on my buggy and had about 1/4" of male showing at rest. Which was more than enough. I would also run the metal yokes instead of the white plastic ones. Then take the long pin that comes with the plastic ones and drill a hole the size of the non-threaded part thru the glued shaft. then a slightly larger hole in one part of the previous hole for the threads then screw that pin thru the glued section. It will make that joint very strong.


you can see in the joined shaft that there is a screw going thru. Hope it helps

Last edited by rckjeep; 06-07-2005 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 06-07-2005, 06:39 PM   #43
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Pretty close to what I was thinking of Yeah the metal thingies are planned but at the time the 20$ was limited supply for me. Already about 100$ over budget. heh comcast can kiss my um |_)_) so half payment this month ;p
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Old 06-14-2005, 01:12 AM   #44
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Exclamation Update 06-14-05

Close to final now. Only things really needed are a set of blackfoot axles or some other means of adding width. A lathe or stock motor replacement prolly as well as maybe a newer smaller battery pack IE some AA nimh or something. I need to save up for a new charger my old standby just fried, so Im using a 15year old hoopty twist timer deal. And a faster high torque servo to replace the slow *** FMA. Oh yeah, I need to fab better platforms for the ESC and RX I just got lazy on these and cut out and bent up some lexan.

NOTE the colour is totaly off some reason I cant get the green to photograph right!! Its a deep neon green with this green and blue flakes. I found that the waterbased neon colours suck ***. Its been 3 days and its still not hard. It doesnt stick well either. The alcad crome stuck better to the lexan than this stuff. SO now I have stickers on areas that failed ( usualy form sinple bumps into the chassis as I aligned it to mount it) This also explains the nasty work on the graphic on the hood. I had to recut the mask before peeling it off needless to say it pulled a lot of the pint up too. SO MAJOR tip. If you want a sinple neon green or what not stick to the rattle cans!! They dry better. Either way this give me a excuse to beat the piss outta this thing. heh 35$+ down the drain Also the decals for this were pretty poor for HPI as well as thin spots on the body itself. (most of these near the ugly hook dealie)








The ti chassis plates with a sanded finish, I could only go so far before the paper wouldnt cut anymore. So some imperfections remain.

Last edited by Madkoifish; 06-14-2005 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 06-14-2005, 06:24 PM   #45
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Looks nice.
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Old 06-16-2005, 03:56 PM   #46
Quarry Creeper
 
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Exclamation articulation

Ok update,
I was argiung with the annoying hexes and found my tyres rubbed slightly on my lower links (evidence was some really shiny bits) So I moved my links in in the same manner as my shocks. Adn waht did I find? My articulation is much improved. Granted many have said it isnt the end all be all of crawling but just as a foot note apparently geometery wise having those lower links inline with the shocks allows for more movement.

pic of linkage set up

Now the issue is of durability of all these parts hanging off the edge of these mounts! Im thinking of fabbing up some alu or other material to bolt in a L pattern so I can eliminate some of the stuff on there. But I dunno if itll be strong enough.

Last edited by Madkoifish; 06-16-2005 at 03:58 PM. Reason: oops forgot to change the image name
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Old 07-29-2005, 01:15 AM   #47
Quarry Creeper
 
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Arrow Finishing touches or whatever.

OK updates.

First up are my servo plates. I found the stock parts lacking somewhat after the aquisition of a 5645. That and well they ook cool. . . eh heh aside from that I needed something to mount the rear links to and the plastic did not seem sturdy enough. I gained about 1 oz over stock here. Maybe I will replace the servo upper link stuff too. The material was the same as the chassis (some sort of TI alloy ALU Ti blend of some sort)

Next is the tranny, or rather all the nylon parts on the truck, inside and out. This is a old pancar trick. Heating nylon strengthens the material. And well since your boiling the stuff might as well add some coulour!! I used RIT dye. Issue with this stuff is heh dont follow the inst. If you do you end up like me with WAY too much dye in the parts. Im sure thoe nylon yokes would have lasted longer if I had done this.

Wide shot of the truck in general Here you can see the nylon parts all dyed. I seriously need to reconsider those body mounts though Oh yeah I returned to the yellow springs the greys allowed too much artic and body roll. Thing would eat its body or flip when I peg the throttle! :?

Here you see my junky tamiya clamp on hexes. The things measure 12mm but it seems the HPI rims are 13mm . . . . . Maybe Ill stuff some old hexes in the hpis and do some JBweld and pop the hexes out after its dry. Either way even with the slop they hold better than the plastic parts. I guess I have to wait for the cows fly for the Inet parts to come in stock.
You can also see I have a spare olite bushing as well as one of the hub nylon ones too on a black foot axle. Those two bushings are the perfect spacers. Kinda hack but heh. the olite allows the BB inner race to contact but none of the other outter parts to rub or drag in any fashion. Only worry is the length of the yoke side of the axle its a bit longer than the stock part or the TG10 parts. Time will tell if it rubs or wears out the inner diff axles.

Final pic is of my ugly wheels. I cut off the outer ring and reglued the tyres to the inner ring instead. Was a bit harder to get a balanced glueing but in the end I managed. The truck seems to steer better and the tyres tend to pull better when at a angle to the rocks (IE sidewall crawling) This also gave me more room around socks and links. No more rubbing >_> Oh, yes you can also see the LACK of support for the hex area This is the reason I think my wheels keep spinning on the hexes. The plastic is very rubbery. More than my older HPI rims. Either way these are going to the junk bin when those ofna rims are restocked at tower or if I find any localy. sad a bit of a waste of cash, maybe some other project will find these to play with.
Oh not really pictured is my new lathe motor. This thing has a lot less rpm and I would say less tourque than my old B&R I went climbing for the short time I had reverse and only one hex slipped, and this was only a slight slippage! With the B&R I'd slip those hexes on flat ground. The lathe seems smoother too not to mention its running on bbs vs the B&R's bushings.
More updates to come waiting on my bigbore shocks and a replacement for the fried ESC. LRP arnt what they used to be, lost reverse when I went to reset the esc's settings. Guess I shoulda lived with the fixed wireing and size of a rooster.

Anyone know of a good ESC that has solder tabs?? Im sick of fixed wires on ESCs I have to end up with all these ugly splices over time. yuk!
I also have to reconfigure the links to eliminate some articulation and make some platforms for the electrics. Basicly waitingon those shocks, they themselfs might cure the artic issue.

Last edited by Madkoifish; 07-29-2005 at 01:17 AM.
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