2.2 TLT build up!

[Madkoifish]

Ok I just got all the pieces for a PEDE tranny. I saw a mess at ebay but none would sell to a n00b with no buy experience so the 20$ more I had to pay was worth it than arguing and screwing around looking for a new tranny. The LHS was super cool about it too. Only thing Im missing are the 5X11 bb but I think I have the needed size in the quantity requred in other cars right now ;p
SO I have a question before I break open the baggies that is:
Is there any special thing I need to to while building this up other than locking the diff with silliy putty or JB weld? Ill add part #s and pics later as I go! maybe any mistakes or discoveries I make will help others as well.
Oh yes, another question I grabbed some tmax links part5139 116mm turnbuckles outta the discount bin. Are these the right units? Im looking to emulate a bulu chassis set up I will be scrap building mine out of either 6062 alum or scrap Ti from boeing. Im thinking I got to eager on these. . .

[I B RACIN]

My 2.2 truck is like a mini clod it use's 2 stampede trannys, what I did was CA glue each gear as it went together then filled the rest with hot glue then slap the cover on.

it blu a main diff gear once, but the thing stayed lock up.

I B..

[Madkoifish]

O_o thats nuts lol Um for now Im gonna try silly putty. My jb weld is a few years old so I dont trust it anymore. A question I forgot is whos bb kit is better duratrax or tamiya? Trax look like some sort of kevlar or fiberglass seals where the tamiya looks metal shielded, odd since all my previous tamiya were rubber or teflon seals. and is the bb count 20 or 10?? >_< kinda cool the tlt and the pede take the same sizes 5X11s

[DUDE]

Originally Posted by Madkoifish

for now Im gonna try silly putty.

That will not last. If you want you can do JB weld putty stick if you like putty.

[Madkoifish]

Ill look for the stuff tomorrow then. Man these parts are horrid. The parts called for in places are bigger than the holes in the parts!! Right now Im fighting the metal idler gear and the shaft. Just dealt with the 2X too big roll pin (something I think will disintergrate quickly) bleah hehe I hate roll pins. . Hated em on all of my losis and I hate em on this pede tranny! lol anyhoo Ill get back to the idler gear I wonder if its not the appropriate part?? Guy said it was heh its only say about 1/10 of a mm too small for the shaft! hrmmm
Also anyone know of ways to tighten the casing? mine seems to not mate up well it seems they assume you will tighten the tollarences with screws in the sides and the chassis ones to close the bottom. . . I'll be glad when the tlt comes in I know tamiya fit and finish is far better than this >_> I feel for the poor fellows at the traxxas assembly line making the stampede rtrs! Oh Ill get some pics up soon, scrounging a mix of rubber shielded bbs for the outer areas and metal shielded for the innards.

edit thank god for my collection of boeing reamers >_>

[DUDE]

Any questions just down load this and print.
http://www.traxxas.com/products/elec...ans%20assy.pdf

[Madkoifish]

Cool thanks I got the break down sheet for it from the LHS issue was manufacturing. The idlergear wasnt fully cut. or they stopped on purpose or some junk. So my reamer came in and forceably fixed the issue ;p

[DUDE]

Hey Madkoifish, check out this thread and get invold.
Washington State RC crawlers

[Madkoifish]

OK here it is together with a lot of distractions :?
third pic shows the gap left because of no retaining screw location here.
I guess I will have to make a plate and go about closing that up then figure how Ill mount it. Last pic is of my losi XX tranny I originaly wanted to use. Had a few diffs around I was gonna glue or JB into a solid mass. Idea is that the tranny 1 is MUCH more airtight and 2 weighs almost HALF that of the pede. Only issue is the diff its a ball and harder to lock, but not impossible And the outdrives are not the pinned ones that the pede has opening up a place for dogbone drop.
I still plan on utilising it some time I just need to verify things. Kinda a kick in the butt considering what I spent on the pede. But hey I could always sell it later I suppose. Either way I got back up!! So enjoy the pics for now cause it will be a wait while the chassis ships. I will prolly order tomorrow given its almost 2am now. And I still wanna browse. Figured Tower is the best place for the remainder onestopping. BBs TLT and the bars considering I got the wrong bars today, Grabbed tmaxx bits which are WAY too small!! hehe ohwell.

[fuel flames]

sounds like pede trannys are a pain just wondering what's wrong with the tranny that comes with the tlt-1 is it not strong?

[Jeepjunky]

The problem with the stock TLT tranny is the belt. It will jump off at will, a bigger pain in the arse than building a new pede. Make sure you cut the A- arm pivots off the pede at the base, unless you are useing them to mount the tranny. Also get rid of the slipper clutch and install the gear adapter, not sure the part number as I bought mine off ebay and it came with. I think it is a traxxas part though. I found my links on ebay, T,E,S Maxx steering rods, I got three sets of four(12of)(96mm/108mm rod lenght) for less than $20 including S/H(new they are $8 a pair + S/H@ Tower) . Two sets for the truck and one set in the spares box. Ebay might be a pain in the butt at times, but worth it most. If you get on ebay, go to traxxas parts and find the stuff for sale by bradjac12, if I remember correctly, he is cool to deal with. Email him letting him know you have never bought and ARE going to pay(newbie), he is willing to deal with you. Good luck on your build and keep the pictures coming!

Randy

[Jim511]

Pede trannies are by far the easiest to work on in my own opinion. MadKoifish, Ive got a couple suggestions for you to do to that tranny to keep the motor slightly cooler. Take the tranny apart again, and looking at the tranny cases from behind, take the left case, and the half circle part where the motor would go through, cut it off. Its just unwanted plastic, you wont need it, and with extra air flow it will keep the motor slightly cooler, and this way if you want to run a heat sink on your motor you can.

[Madkoifish]

1 stock tranny has the motor up higher (least from what I read) The belt streches and chews its pullys.

2 AGHH lol I paied 17$ for that bloody slipper!! >_< we couldnt find the breakdown or parts list for a non sipper version of the tranny, we figured there wasnt such a animal. douh!! Heh if I didnt need that slipper I coulda only spent 40$ which means heh I coulda gotten by with spending less than a ebay tranny T_T wahhhh lol oh well I originaly didnt plan on getting it yesterday BIT someone else convinced me otherwise. (tip! NEVER NEVER shop with a anlytical MOTHER!!! NEVER!!) NOw why do you say dump the slipper??? I thought that it would help some say if you got jambed in a rock and goosed it at a bad point it would save the gears drive cups and the gears in the axles. either way easy lock would be to bolt the thing all together minus those rubber thingies.


3 Yeah, I plan on doing some liposuction in the sucker! Dremmel, razor saw, and grinder action!! Looking at refrence pics of others TLTs it looks like I might have to get a piece of nylon or kydex to mount the tranny to then bolt that to a chassis to center the axles.
The issue I had with the tranny is the fit and finish of parts. Im used to stuff that are important going together better. IE not having to heat the case up under hot water to reshape it. Gears not fitting shafts rollpins that are SAE and holes that are metric. so on so on. I guess Im spoiled by HPI, kyosho, tamiya, and losi. Im shocked how UNSEALED the gearbox is! I think in time I will greate my own box for the gears. Doesnt matter now the bugger is all put together! >_>

I would love to get the motor on the bottom with the outdrives on top but that would cause issues of clearance and drive shaft angles so BOOO I cant be diffrent there. Looking at the tranny any other style of mounting would equate to sag in the truck or nasty torque steer.

Ok I put together a liist for other things at tower
2000masher tyres

the TLT

3 sets of the teflon bbs ( one to replace my rubber sealed bbs I yanked from my micro monster and hpi rally
Im looking at upper links and overall lengths and Im sorta stuck without the truck here to compare and guestamate. The Revo links are TEMPTING, very much so No hex to hang up on rocks etc but my tag at tower is already 200$ and Im seriously pushing my budget! I think ill have to live with the stock tranny for a short while since I wanna source and look at either revo or jato sliders. And I relise the tempory drive I had in mind doesnt have the 2 pin ball the uni joint requires. The pinned balls are part of the drive cup via a roll pin and you all know I hate roll pins! lol With buying already made links bothers me cause I have no fudge room I think I will need to make one set of links Either top or bottom depending on the wheelbase I want. So plans so far
1 get the stupid TLT kit! ( duh)
2 build the kit to a stage 1 (basicly stick everything but bbs and a strech via leftover junk in my house)
3 stage 2 I think will be a full strech with either store bought links or homemade ones from solid alu rods. This wil incluse a one point upper mount either via 2 links bolted together on a over top box on the servo or a bent link in a tight u shape. Rear lock outs since it seems many want rear steering illegal for comp
4 Stage 3 will be the full tranny swap as well as custom chassis ( I think this would be the final stage, I know nothing is ever finished but this will be a point closest to 90% done!!)
Let me know if anything is a miss Ill get to doing some doodles to visualise some ideas I had for fabbed parts.
Keep in mind you wontsee any trick 1200$ machine mills or lathes. Im too poor for those. I do have a cheapass drill press skills with hand saws and a milling vise. So well see how pretty my butchery is! lol
Feel free to browse http://Madkoifish.rr.nu/ For my micro monster documentation. Just pleas dont link or spread the url YET. Im still nailing this site together.
Koi~

[Madkoifish]

OK question!
are these the sliders you people order or do you order the tmax sliders??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ82&P=7

[Madkoifish]

GAHH ok I placed my order yesterday I got
1 TLT-1 maxclimber kit
3 duratrax teflon bbs (some to replace metal shielded ones on other cars too
2 sets of proline Masher 2000 tyres
1 second set of traxxas yokes LHS was sold out friday
1 set traxxas long sliders
2 HPI Split 5 Truck Wheel Gray ( they had no black only white grey and chrome White looks like krap after a while chrome chips all over. so grey, I hope its the metalicish grey that I have from my rally rims.
1 Ofna Aluminum CNC Servo Arm Red ( for the hell of it)
and 1 LOUD ouch as it totaled up!! lol
A trip to ace procured a mess of alen screws all stainless. A plethora of alu tubes for links. I got some with a small inner dia so I will drill em out more then tap the buggers for a 2 to 3" threaded rod. (I couldnt find 4-40 threaded rod anywhere! Even the LHS. I am considering running either silod bras or Stainles rod inside the dead space of the alu links to strengthen Id silicon em in so they seal some, maybe heh
As well I gluegunned my diff last night. YES, I kno I should jb the whole mess but I want to try something out first, the glue gun wull allow me to peel it out and restore the diff.
SO as soon as all this stuff arrives I will begin the build up

I do have a question is anyone intrested in a documentation of the stock build?? Im not sure yet if Ill just build it from stage 1 or do stock then go to stage 1.
I will get a website up soon showing stages measurements etc.
Cheers

[Jeepjunky]

Shoot the works and save the time, build it full blown, forget the stock stuff thats for ebay. I have the same set up on my TLT, just can't figure out how to reduce picture size to post.

[Madkoifish]

lol Well I have a dead line to get this ready which is the last week in june! I'll be visiting family in cali, which means a tript to tahoe, and well I know of some sweet ass sites there I wanna try out! So at least stage 2 is gonna be a stepping point. I cant design or fab a chassis in that time, and debug it all. I might but who knows. lol
As for shrinking pics give gimp a google its a free app that originated on lunix but theres a win ver out. Or look at www.jasc.com Paintshop pro has a app on demo (90days or some krap) I think Adobe has a lowend ver of photoshop too for demo.
Oh I got a portion of the info with pics up on my url I just have to cross link the stuff up on the contents page.

[edit]
Um I forgot to ask I see people running a rubicon, I assume thats the HPI body for the savage. Does this fit without mods??? Because I like it as well as a few others there such as the ford f100. I would love to find say a old chevy or ford truck from the 40s to 50s era. IE a fenered truck.

[akcrawler]

I believe HPI has bodies for a savage that might fit. They should be 1/10 scale.
Lots too chose from.

[Madkoifish]

issue is most tmax and savage bodies are 1/8th or close to since they are quite a bit larger than compareable 1/10

[Brandon]

Those bodies will fit if you have somewhere around 12-13 inch wheelbase once your tlt is extended.