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Thread: RC4WD stainless steel stub issue

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Old 05-26-2008, 03:16 PM   #1
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Default RC4WD stainless steel stub issue

Hi everyone;

I recently got my TXT to the point where I am very happy with its performance. I'm running twin Integy 35Ts, 11 tooth pinions, 6-cell NiMH, RC4WD 23mm adaptors for Proline Commando beadlocks wrapped in Mashers, Revo shafts, and a few other things. My main concern surfaced a couple weeks ago when I bent the front right drive stub when trying to go over a 5"-tall street curb at crawling speeds. The torque twist makes such a maneuver difficult with a locked rear diff but an open front, so I'm assuming this is why the front part bent.

I just got the stainless steel kit both front and rear from RC4WD, and couldn't be happier with the install. However, again at very low crawling speeds (much more carefully than before), I still bent the same stub. My question is whether I would actually reduce the number of bent parts if I locked the front diff so the tire could actually grab, and roll up and over the curb as opposed to being driven into it, thus reducing the likelihood of bending the stub. Although I am very disappointed to have the SS unit bend in light conditions (I am actually very careful with my vehicles) and believe it should hold up better, I want to know if there is anything I can do to mitigate breaking.


Edit: Considering I just spent the $70 to have a full set, and I am betting RC4WD will not accept them as a refund because they have been run, I am not wanting to go the full TTR cvd swap route right now, but thank you for mentioning it as a possibility.

Last edited by adanmtxt1; 05-26-2008 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 05-26-2008, 03:19 PM   #2
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Thundertech cvd's will fix all problems.
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:20 PM   #3
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Not quite sure how you are bending the stub shafts if you are just "crawling" over a curb. 304 SS will bend prior to breaking in our applications, but I find it rather hard to see how you can do that at crawling speed over a curb.

Do you have all the bearings/bushings in the knuckles? How weighted are your wheels and/or knuckles? Just trying to figure out what is going on to help you out as I have yet to bend or break a RC4WD SS shaft in the rear of my TXT and it has seem some violet hits from full throttle assaults up steep climbs only to come tumbling down.

If you are just that unlike to break them "crawling" over a curb, I suggest you sell them off and get some Thundertech CVDs ASAP
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:22 PM   #4
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I have a video of it going over the curb as he drove it-I was shocked how the heck it bent. Its not like the truck ran full throttle into the curb, it slowly worked its way up and as it came back we noticed that the wheel was wobbling. I'll see if I can get the video edited and up tonight.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:25 PM   #5
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I asked someone else, and they confirmed what I had suspected. When I approach at an angle with the left side of the truck facing the curb, the truck chassis is torquing away from the curb and helping the front axle (specifically, the inside front tire) over. When approaching from the other angle, the truck is torqued into the curb, forcing the front right tire against the curb. Because the front diff is open, I'm not letting the front diff 'do the work for me'. If it were locked, the inside tire would receive equitable torque and just crawl up the curb. I am now planning on JB welding the front and will see how it goes then, but assume having the front tires pulling equitably will bring this truck to life.

I am honestly not beating this truck, though, and am astonished that this stub bent. I know RC4WD quality from personal and outside experience, so I'm kinda at a loss here (sent an email already). I'm not weighting at all, and am running stock bushings (winces in shame).
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:22 AM   #6
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That just seems odd to me.

Maybe go head on into obstacles like that or lock up the front diff.
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Old 05-30-2008, 06:09 PM   #7
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I've had problems with RC4wd axle shafts in my TLT... One set didn't last more than 20 mins. The ends twisted and broke the pins. I've got 4 inners and 1 outer that are all thrashed. The stock TLT axles are stronger. I know its a different truck, but they aren't making a good axle for either it seems. TTR CVDs are what are in my Juggy2 axles that I replaced the TLT's with.
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:50 PM   #8
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Wow, RC4WD must have shipped a replacement set out with Priority mail, because I just got a new set. Not just one stub either, but two stubs and a complete pair (L/R) axle shafts. Thank you!!!

I ran them with my newly locked front diff (now a fully locked drivetrain), and it pulls over everything, even on wet surfaces! I will be sure to be more thoughtful about what my truck is actually doing, regarding how the truck is actually articulating. No issues thus far, though .

Thanks again RC4WD, great support.
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Old 05-31-2008, 06:54 AM   #9
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I realized run time is pretty low with the fully locked drivetrain, about 8 minutes locked compared to between 15 and 20 minutes with only the rear locked. I suspect my charger is false peaking, so I'll look into that today. Other than that, I will cut the foams and add heatsinks to the motors for cooler running and a little flash.

Pics support:


The full set RC4WD sent in:








I'll get some pics and maybe a vid of it running today or tomorrow. Thanks for the help, everyone .
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:17 AM   #10
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What battery/charger are you running, you should be getting longer runtimes than that with a pair of lathe motors.
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:50 AM   #11
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Well, my guess is that those older 3300s are getting up there in age. Try the matched 3300 today and see what happens-charge it with my charger also. My old intellipeak died a month after warrnaty expired, so I'm surprised yours has been good all these years.
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Old 05-31-2008, 01:36 PM   #12
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I just got back from running it. Although I took a number of 30-second breaks to rearrange some rocks we have, I netted a 30-minute run time over street curbs (about 5 minutes) and the rocks in our grassy back yard (remainder of the time). Considering it was on grass, I am surprised I got such good run time. The drawback is the motors and ESC (super rooster) got a little hot, possibly 150F on the ESC and 110 on the motors.

Next up: Novak cooling fan on the speed control, and Integy heatsinks on the motors. I'm thinking these:

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Old 06-12-2008, 08:16 PM   #13
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Well, I mounted up a 30x30x6mm Novak fan and twin Integy heatsinks. If you can believe it Integy apparently cannot properly spec, machine, or QA their products, evidenced by my two heatsinks' different dimensions. One is about 3mm longer than the other, lengthwise along the can, throughout the entire part. I have heard how their stressed parts (suspension, chassis, driveline) cannot take any abuse, but a static heatsink? Wow.

The fan works very well though. I plan to gear down one or two more teeth on the pinions. What pitch are stock clod / txt pinion?
edit: 32 pitch, I suppose. I'm thinking 10 tooth pinions, and if that doesn't work I'll think about other options; stalling has proved an issue in some cases. I could always run 9 cells (currently at 6 sub-c) at gear down a little further.

Last edited by adanmtxt1; 06-12-2008 at 08:32 PM.
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