My Homebuilt Txt Axle Monster Crawler
 

I have been building this crawler for a while from scratch. When I started I had noting including knowledge about crawlers. Just that I wanted one. In the mean time I bought my Axial and did some mods on it and now the Axial is crawling awesome. I am close to completion on my home built. The pix show where I was about a week ago. I am going to install different aluminum threaded body shocks once I get my RC4WD shock clamps for the home made links that are made from 1/4 inch tubing. The chassis plates I made outta polished stainless steel. Axles are from a TXT that i canibalized to get them. It has a RC4WD R-2 tranny with disconnect as well as RC4WD Rock Crusher tires on 40 series Cheyenne rims. Right now it has a 24" wheelbase with an overall length of 30 inches. I might shorten it as I near completion. I do however need to know where to find comp rules n regulations. The articulation is past 90 degrees. Some of the link parts are from R/C airplane accessories. Any suggestions would be welcomed. But like I said, this was built totally from scratch so please be kind. LOL Well, here's a couple pix for now and I am in the process of making home made driveshafts. Then it actually will be able to move on it's own power. I will have the disconnect, and rear steering still to finish hookin up. Thanx for looking.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...crawler5-1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...ltcrawler3.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...ltcrawler4.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...ltcrawler6.jpg

nice work. looks good. it seems kinda tall. TXT axles are suppose to be practically indestructable so it shoud be a good rig!!

[quote=quad23;1312351] it seems kinda tall. quote]

It is just above the tires. Which are 7.5 inches tall. I will try n get a profile shot as soon as I get the permanent shocks on it. For it's length, it looks right in person. Kinda squaty actually. But I need to get more near completion to adjust ride height. That will be easy with the way shocks are mounted. It's completely adjustable.

Where did you get the tubing for the links and what other parts/hardware did you need to get them installed to the chassis and axles? Good looking work btw!

the links look way long, personally I'd aim for the 18" to 17" going the super route.
revo driveshafts will fit then. making one less piece to fabricate.

I would add a bottom skid to protect the motor and trans. I'm not sure of the longevity of the r2d with the 7.5" tall crushers (which look freakin awesome by the way)

the shock mounting is fair, but I forsee some decent torque twist out of it (whole truck leaning off to the left trying to pick up the right front wheel)
shortening the links, or adding stiffer springs to the shocks can help.

over 90* is a little much for articulation. A fair rule of thumb is enough articulation to drive over your own tire. in this case, 7-7.5" is as far up as I'd want to go.

it really is up to you though. in the end you are the only person you have to make happy.

you are off to a good start, looking forward to watching the rest of it.

Well, as I put in the original post. I am waiting for the "shock clamps" before I install the "Threaded body shocks". I also stated that I was prolly gonna "horten"it once I get the shocks on it that will be permanent as these are not the ones I am keeping on it. If U notice on the chassis, there is no place for a skid plate, but I am trying to figure something out. As far as the R-2 do you mean it isn't strong enough to hold up to the torque of the big tires?? I have been told this is a pretty strong tranny and even at that, they do offer a stronger gearing upgrade. Although the owner of RC4WD assures me that it most likely will not be necessary. Also I was asking for somewhere to find competition rules n regulations. So as U can see, most of this was covered in the original post. But thanx for your help?? As far as atriculation, I figure the more the better. It will only use what is needed for any particular climb. On my Axial, softer spring did a lotta help. but I wont know about this one till I put on the other shocks I have. I do have some original springs off the Axial as a test but it also depends on the angle I end up using on the shocks when mounting them using the shock clamps. More angle, less resistance. less angle more resistance. So I can do more adjustment like that than would be possible with spring choice. As far as the driveshafts. i made a set 2day afer work and will just shorten them when I find my correct wheelbase. I need the comp rules first for that. No one has yet to guide me to THAT info. I looked here for it but can't seem to find it yet in this forum. Even when I shorten it, I don't think my Revo shafts will be long enough. I have the long ones on my 3.3 and have test fit them and doesn't look near long enough. Again, even making it shorter. I do want it big. Not like my 2.2 Axial. This is for fun as is the Axial. I am not sure if there are any competitions down this way. I also have fun with my 1:1 Samurai rock crawler. So I tried using some of the theory behind it on my R/C crawlers. LOL The Samurai is kind like a 1/2 scale. LOL Anyway, thanx for the comments so far and I do need more "help". ;-)

The tubing is 1/4" aluminum tubing from Ace Hardware and the chassis mounts are R/C airplane landing gear that I modified and tapped. The axle side was simly the original rod ends from the TXT attached to my links

Your crawler has smooth legs....

LMAO "thumbsup"

Actually it's my accountant with the size 5 1/2 foot and smooth legs. She said had she known they were gonna get such attention, she woulda worn heels. :shock:

i was just pointing out some things I would do, then ended with a whatever turns you on go for it statement, so there is no need to be snide

rules: (found under competitions)

Class 1 - Super Crawler Class:
• No limits on wheelbase, vehicle track width or height.
• No limits on tire type or size.
• Limited to 4-wheeled vehicles only.
• No limits to steering configuration.
• You must run a body, 10th scale or larger, 70% of the original body, to be determined by judges, 3" minimum height on sides, no more than 3" taken off of total length, no less than 12.5" total length and full width in the center.
Tube chassis's are fine, as long as they resemble a 1:1 rig, they must retain a roof, hood and side panels.
• Body should resemble its original form (jeep bodies look like a jeeps)
-Supercrawler class tube chassis are allowed with the following restrictions. Chassis must be at least 12"long, 3"wide, and 3.75"tall, the roof must be raised from the main chassis to resemble a cockpit, and it must have solid hood, roof and sidepanels.

belly skid:

I'd bend a piece of aluminum into a \__/ shape and bolt it up using the lower link mounting bolts quick and easy, and cheaper than repairs.

Trans concern:

Original r2's couldn't stand up to the abuse. I didn't know if the r2d was a variant of the r2hd, which would be enough. at least you asked rc4wd if it would do it.

Articulation:

It is mostly up to the driver as to what they want to do. the issue with extreme articulation is the ability of the rig to drop a wheel in a hole that will only get the truck in a bind and cause breakage. Limiting it a little allows the rig to "float" a tire across a dropoff that it would have gotten jammed in otherwise. Again up to the driver.

Driveshaft:

I had a txt rig I was running with a 17.5" wb and the standard revo shafts fit fine. after cutting the blue boot and looking at the amount of overlap in the slider, you may be able to push about 20" worth of wheelbase with them before having to worry about it. for your 24" setup custom is the way to go.

hope this provides some insight into my suggestions.

if you don't like them, don't listen to them.
just don't ask for help, then treat the ones trying to help you like idiots.

H

Sorry I wasn't trying to be rude nor "snide" just that most of that I had already covered in the thread and I do appreciate your opinions. As anyone's. I am not a Crawloing expert. I was just pointing out that I had mentioned most of what was said. I Do need help in this area. The tranny plate will work as U suggested. if I shorten the wheelbase, as I had mentioned I prolly would, will that decrease the articulation or is that solely up to the shocks and configuration?? As far as it dropping off, the tires are 7.5 inches and will most likey bridge most gaps. but otherwise what controls articulation. I thought it was mostly depending on link angle and configuration. ie: 3 link or 4 link. I also looked at my Revo driveshafts and they have no blue boot. Only my axles have that. And they still don't look long enough. But I will try again if my home made ones fail. I did reread my comment and it doesn't sound offensive or rude. And no one seemed like an idiot. Unless it was me, having almost no knowledge in this area. It just seemed that the thread wasn't read through. Sorry and thanx again. Here's more recent pix. Goin 2 LHS 2day for some miscelaneous stuff.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...ltcrawler9.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...tcrawler10.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...tcrawler11.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...tcrawler12.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...tcrawler13.jpg

Thats is a sweet chassis idea though, I just realized that those were Tmaxx chassis braces. Very simple but looks like it will work.

I think that Twin Force axles (width) would be more fitting to a build of this...stature.

Sorry, never heard of em. I did these coz they look like Rockwells.

pretty dog :)

I'm having some problems with extreme torque steer at the moment, I might have to rethink the linkage. Otherwise it's doin ok. The disconnect is great. But I think the springs are much too weak.

Oh yea, Im gussing those are Traxxas red springs? Try the Trinity light blue or dark blue springs. You could also go to a thicker oil, or a shock piston that has few holes in it. My crawler had torque twist really bad. I put one hole pistons in and changed to 70 weight oil. Put Trinity light blue spring on and it helped a lot. I think I will end up putting even thicker oil in though, still does it a little.

Thanx, that at least gives me a direction to go. "thumbsup"

Sweet lookin build dude! was wondering if you could tell me where you got the driveshafts from? (trans to axle)

Made em myself. The ends are from a TXT truck but I did the modification myself with solid rod. I mig welded it to the cut off TXT yokes. It aligned very well. i am still having torque twist probs tho. i wish I could get it straightened out soon. Even the XTM is made very similar to my build and I still can't get it right. Good thing I have my modified AX-10 to keep me in the pits till then. My rock garden is growing immensely. Wish I knew more people in South Florida to crawl with. My garden is open for anyone wanting to come have fun.

You may not be able to completely get rid of the torque twist because your links are so long. Since they are long they add quite a bit of leverage to the shocks. I would put the heaviest oil in and the stiffest springs I could find, just a thought.