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Thread: TXT-1 Chassis Mod, step by step

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Old 09-04-2008, 09:33 PM   #1
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Default TXT-1 Chassis Mod, step by step

This build was based off of EeePee's build and much of the process and setup was copied from his. I just wanted to share more of a step by step process of cutting the TXT chassis for more ground clearance and better center of gravity.

I started by removing the axles, battery box, and gearbox. Going off EeePee's pictures I determined where to cut and where to drill aditional holes. I screwed the two chassis halves together so I was sure to get two identical sides.






This is what was cut out. I made the cut using a metal blade on a jigsaw. A band saw or dremel could work as well.



The transmission is mounted a little higher in the chassis now, the lower "arms" that extend off the transmission are cut off. The transmisstion is moved up and the upper mounts on the transmission mount where the stock shock mount used to be.




Two of the cross braces that used to be mounted right above the lower links are moved to the bottom of the chassis. They "sandwich" the bottom of the transmission to keep it in place.




I wanted to keep the stock cantilever suspension to see how it would work with the longer wheel base. EeePee mounted the shocks directly to the axle which I may do later. The challenge was that the transmission was now mounted where the shock bracket should go. With a little imagination I modified the shock mount by notching it to go over the transmission mount. There was a square opening next to the original hole that I drilled out for a new mounting screw. This kept the bracket fixed to the chassis.





I also drilled out the other side of the hole so that a brace could be slid through for a battery mount.





For battery and electronics placement I used the battery box "bar" as the mount. I turned the stock bar sideways and mounted the electronics on one side. I mounted the battery on the other side useing velcro straps.





This mod really helps extend the wheelbase by about 3 inches from stock. You can see the axles are really out there now.



It also really helps add ground clearance. Its much more than stock.



I will need to get new drive shaft halves as this extended the wheelbase more than my Revo shafts would allow. I just need two of the female sliders and I will be good to go. A little wire routing will also tidy things up. My wheelbase went from 13.5 inches to 15.5 inches. Articulation seems to be just as good as stock if not more.


BEFORE:




AFTER:




BEFORE:




AFTER:




Last edited by dont slow down; 09-13-2008 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 09-05-2008, 10:40 AM   #2
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nice writeup.

and a nice looking truck.
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:20 PM   #3
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cut the body posts already!!!!! =p


haha

looks good, any plans for a skid plate?

i could see the tranny and frame sides catching on a lot of obsticals.
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Old 09-05-2008, 06:00 PM   #4
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I know, I know! This body will be replaced soon and I will cut them once I get a new body. haha

So today I finished up the little details. I picked up some Revo shafts from the LHS and hooked them up. I didnt even have to cut them since the wheelbase is so long now, but that was fine by me, less cutting lol.




The skid plate that I was using before I cut the chassis was re-used. I wanted to use it again and had planned it out before I drilled the holes for the lower braces. I made sure the holes were in right spots and it worked out perfectly. The skid is a little small. It doesnt cover the four lower corners of the chassis which could allow them to hang up on rocks. However when I gave it a quick test run today they didnt catch on anything. So I will see how it goes out on the rocks.





When I tested it on some stumps in my yard today it did amazingly well. The length of the truck is perfect! I was literally "walking" up sections that I used to have a really hard time on. I compared it to my Emaxx and it dwarfs the Emaxx now, lol. Here are some comparison pics.






I would like to get some new rims and tires soon and will probably get some wideners for it too. Overall this was a good and worth while mod. I was very hesitant to cut up my nice chassis. But the performance I got from it made it really worth it!
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Old 09-07-2008, 04:47 PM   #5
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I wasn't happy with the way the battery was mounted. It was very hard to change packs in that position. So I repositioned my electronics and battery, easier to change packs but the battery is kinda high up, the electronics area a little lower though. I may figure out a better way later.



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Old 09-20-2008, 11:49 AM   #6
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Well I have finally decided to cut up that nice new frame and chassis... Your post will be very helpful. On a side note I am trying to decide which mod to do for the steering servos. Do you get caught up on your servo in the back on ledges? I couldn't tell from the pictures if it hangs past the radius of the tires or not. Also, are you still running the cantilever shocks. I too like the look and since it isn't a comp crawler am thinking of keeping them. Thanks.
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Old 09-20-2008, 12:43 PM   #7
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Well there are two ways to mount the servos. The behind the axle position (which is what I'm running) or you can mount the servo to the top of the axle. Either way a bracket will need to be fabricated. As far as the linkage in the back, yes its gets hung up pretty often and I am planning on moving the servo to the top of the axle. I am running the cantilever shocks still. Its kinda tricky to modify the shock mounts to make it work so just look at the pics carefully. If you need something more specific then let me know and I'll try to get a more detailed pic for you. I just ordered some link mounts for the shocks. I'm going to try mounting the shocks to the links and go without the cantilever setup just to see which is better. This mod is definatly worth it and really makes it a more capable rig, you won't be dissapointed!
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Old 09-20-2008, 12:55 PM   #8
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I have been studying various mods and starring at my truck to see if there are any other ways to do it that might work better..... before I start cutting. What shock links did you order? I also have the problem that I run the Novak HV brushless setup so I need room for two batteries. If I figure it out right I can get a lot of weight up front which should be good. Hard part is keeping it down low. Keep me posted as you change things up.
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Old 09-20-2008, 01:14 PM   #9
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I ordered these: http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.p...roducts_id=215

Well finding a spot for two batterys will be a bit of a challenge. I also took lots of time just sitting in front of my truck staring at it, lol. I wanted to make sure I had everything planned out and that everything had a spot before I made my cuts.
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Old 09-20-2008, 01:24 PM   #10
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Check out the PM I sent you. Simply amazing work I hadn't seen before in my searching.
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Old 09-20-2008, 03:40 PM   #11
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Nice job man! Good thread!



I just went and looked at my thread, that was almost three years ago!

Last edited by EeePee; 09-20-2008 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 09-21-2008, 11:21 PM   #12
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Don't Slow Down, where did you get the Revo shafts? Big Boys... They closed the one in AG but I think SM is still open. Do you happen to have a part number. I have the punisher shafts from RC4WD that I like but got the short ones when I bought the truck not realizing I would be lengthening it and they wouldn't be long enough. Bummer. I might try to put them on my CR-01 since I have already twisted one plastic shaft with two batteries running around the house. Thanks for the help.

p.s. I bit the bullet today, tore it all down, and cut up the frame, mounts, etc. Now I have to get it all put back together and finish up the mods as I go.
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Old 09-21-2008, 11:27 PM   #13
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Yes Big Boys up there in AG closed down. The one here in SM is still open however they are closed on Mondays now. I don't have a part number handy but they do stock them. You may want to call before just in case. Make sure you talk to Lester or Sheppard. They are the only two there who seem to know much. I used to be the RC king back when I used to work there. Let me know if you need any help figuring anything out. Post some pics too!
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:48 AM   #14
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DSD : I don't mean to hijack your thread but wanted you to see the post so my apologies, but I was wondering if you locked your diffs and which method you used. I am still trying to decide if the removable lock I posted about before will be a good idea or not....
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Old 09-24-2008, 05:27 PM   #15
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I have both front and rear diffs locked. This truck is a crawler only for me. I used the JB weld method and havent had any problems so far. I have seen the machined lockers out there and they look very nice however they are expensive. If you want to be able to go back and forth I would say buy a locker. If its not a crawler only for you I would suggest only locking the rear and leaving the front open.
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Old 09-24-2008, 09:44 PM   #16
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sweet write up don't slow down! If/when I decide to get a TXT I will do that before I put it together. I'm not sure that I like the cantilever shocks but i'll have to see at that time how I want to run it. Instead of using revo plastic driveshafts would it be better to use steel cvds like what's made for the T/E Maxx? Just a curiousity question from a true newbie!!
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:00 PM   #17
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This mod extends the wheelbase to 15.5 inches. Good luck trying to find CVD's that long. The Revo shafts are the strongest plastic drive shafts I have ever seen. They are much cheaper than CVD's too. Also CVD's wont slide or adjust during articulation. As the axle moves up and down, it actually moves towards and away from the tranny a little bit, a CVD may cause binding. Revos are just my prefence

I am also in the process of testing different shock mounting locations. I like the cantilever setup as it allows a lot of articulation. I just recieved some shock mounts today that will mount the shock on the lower link. A quick test fit revealed that some sort of mounting setup will have to be created. I'll keep this thread updated as I figure things out.

Last edited by dont slow down; 09-24-2008 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:32 AM   #18
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I thought that's why you went with the 2 piece driveshaft but I wasn't sure and being a newbie I had to ask. As for the cantilever suspension, I guess it's just the looks versus the operation that I was looking at. Not that one was better than the other.
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:16 AM   #19
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DSD - I just picked up some Revo shafts at Hobby Headquarters in Atascadero. They look to be the same ones as you have, but the yokes rub on the tranny case and I couldn't tell from your pictures if you shaved something to get them to fit or if I have the wrong ones??

On a side note, apparently the Hobby Headq. owner up there started a crawler club (Central Coast Crawlers) that meets in Atascadero or Paso every Monday night and hosts regular crawl comps as well. A bit of a drive but they said it is a blast and a fun group to be around.... Might be worth looking in to.

Thanks for the help, I will try to post some pictures of my progress sometime soon. I also looked at a used vertical mill today that I will likely buy so I can start making some of my own parts:grin:. This is getting very addictive?!?!?!?
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Old 09-28-2008, 06:44 AM   #20
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When i put my reveo shafts in, I had to chuck the hub up in a drill and shaved it a little with my pocket knife to get it to fit.
it seemed like a lot of work, but I have never had to replace it. this was on a 17"wb rig.
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