![]() | #21 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 213
| ![]()
tear the boots off, the break out the dremel, I can post pics later if you need them. AXL |
![]() | ![]() |
Sponsored Links | |
![]() | #22 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: burton
Posts: 148
| ![]()
ya I need pics . I don't want to screw up anything
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #23 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 80
| ![]()
rckjeep i would like your skid plate for the cut chassis i made one but i did not fit. there is more takeup than i thought let me know if you still have it TRD ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #24 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 213
| ![]()
I will do a demo type thing tonight after I get off work AXL |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #25 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lancaster
Posts: 23
| ![]()
Hmm i wonder if the revo shafts bolt in place on my Tx with the Emaxx trans....whats your take on it guys?
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #26 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 213
| ![]()
Yes they will, I am using an Emaxx tranny, revo shafts and txt axles on my rock mutt. Herzog, my camera crapped out, so I will do my best with words till I can borrow one. Ok, I carefully off the blue boots, then installed the male end pinion shaft. next install the female end at the tranny. Do not slide them together yet. Then, flex your truck to where the distance between the pinion end and the tranny output are the shortest, mark and trim the female end where the splines start on the male end closest to the u-joint. After you trim the female end slide it over the male end (you will have to remove it from the tranny). What you are doing here is checking to see how much to trim off of the male end. the splines should not bottom out in the female end before they are covered. The amount of splines left showing after you slide the female end all the way on is the amount that need to be trimed off of the male end (splines) ( you may want to remove the male end from the axle, it will make things easier). As a note before you cut, the splines are indexed they will only slide together at two positions. Scribe a line lightly down the female end and make a matching mark on the male end. This will ensure the the halves slide smoothly. And that is all there is to it. If you have any more Q's, just give us a shout. AXL |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #27 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: burton
Posts: 148
| ![]()
how do I remove the blue boot :(
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #28 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 213
| ![]()
I cut mine off with a razor, I did not re-use mine, to much travel AXL |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #29 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 597
| ![]()
Hey guys, I did the Revo shaft mod along with rckjeep's wheelbase/link mod last night. Here's some pics of what I thought was left out of Jay's orginal post on RCMT. I haven't cut the chassis or raised the tranny yet, not enough time before tomorrow's get together. The Revo shafts are stock length too. First, here's my inspiration for this, along with a guide. Long live 802.11!!!!!11 ![]() Here's a stock shaft, revo shaft, and the allen wrench that had to be sacrificed to get the old ones out. ![]() Here's what the revo shafts look like once you take the axle out. The pin simply pushes out, hardly any resistance. I only had to relieve one side of the tranny case for these to clear as well. I also had to move the heatsink. I could've dremel'ed it, but just moved it over and used one of the buigger holes. ![]() Since one end is smaller than the other, and the revo shafts only come with the long ones, you'll need shorter setscrew pins for the tranny ends. I got these. HPI part number 86094. ![]() ![]() Here it is all done. Wheelbase is now 15.5 inches. I also have 4WS and a new Hitec Laser 6. ![]() Here's an interesting shot. This is haze from CA. When I narrowed my wheels and glued the tires on, I couldn't wait to see what they looked like. There's nothing wrong, and it just wipes off. ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #30 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: san francisco
Posts: 143
| ![]()
what WB can you have to use the revo shafts without shorting them?
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #31 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
I know this is old but I finally got the REVO's on my TXT. When I did the maxx shafts I turned down the yoke for the tranny sode. That way I didn't have to clearence the tranny. So to attach the REVO's I had to clearence one side of the tranny. My WB is @ 15 3/4" and I did not cut the shafts. I also ground down the set screws on the tranny side so they wouldn't hit the tranny case. It wasn't that hard. Oh I also had to ditch the large heatsink on the tranny. I could have just clearenced it a little and probably will in the future.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #32 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 181
| ![]()
you can just turn the heatsink upside down, it looks funny but works in my case
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #33 |
2006 2.2 National Champ ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
| ![]()
I just took both heat sinks off. I run full bearings, but even w/ bushings there shouldn't be any heat issues on a crawler.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |