|
![]() |
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() | #21 |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
| ![]()
Hey rckjeep, With your skid plate, the front and rear pieces that are bent up are pretty big. I think you are are going to have to notch them to fit either the Rivo or sliders on. Have you mounted both the driveshafts and the skid plate yet? |
![]() | ![]() |
Sponsored Links | |
![]() | #22 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]() Quote:
Since the rods that hold the susp. up are now at an angle I lost ground clearence. I may need to make longer ones. John, I did mount the skid and I will need to notch it for the D.shafts. not sure which I'll use yet. The Revo's are huge. I bought one. The maxx sliders look a bit more scale but I love the driveshaft boot on the Revo's. I might not make the trail ride. It's taking longer than I thought. Always does though right? | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #23 | |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
| ![]() Quote:
| |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #24 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
seriously, after the susp. is done I need to mount my battery and electronics. It sucks cause i need to make mounts for them. UPDATE: IT'S A ROLLER! I'll post pics tonight. I still need to notch the skip plate for drive shafts. Hook up drive shafts. I think maxx sliders (double femaled is the path I've choosen. I think I might even mount a spare on the rollbar. Nothin' says trail rig, like spare shafts. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #25 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
Here's the latest here you can see the tranny mount ![]() here's the notched skid plate and the drive shaft ![]() Spare drive shaft mounted ![]() Overall shot ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #26 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #27 |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
| ![]()
He said the WB was the same as mine which would make it 15 1/4" WB. rckjeep, that is some REALLY nice fab work! Everything is so smooth and rounded like a baby's butt! ![]() I can't wait to see that thing in person tomorrow! |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #28 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 234
| ![]()
Nice looking work but how is the tranny mounted on the skid? Joe |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #29 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
The picture above is kinda hard to see. I used 1/4" sq. bar alum. bolted to the skid to keep the tranny from pivoting on the bolts that are left. Then I used a piece of body mount foam. Those little foam circle with adhesive on one side to add some cushion. It seems to work. Tomorrow will be the true test.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #30 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SERCRC
Posts: 1,680
| ![]() Quote:
![]() Your truck looks great! The skidplate is sweet. ![]() | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #31 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
Aside from the soft canti shock setup it worked awesome today. A few more adjustments and I'll make it work. I went up some pretty insane ledges today. Oh and BFT tires kick @$$.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #32 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 616
| ![]()
you have a pm ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #33 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
I thought I'd whore out some more pics. here's my link set up ![]() here's my new recovery shackle for the next time Wheels can't make it up a rock or Badger flops it over again. sorry its a bit blurry ![]() and Rock Rangers evil twin Rock Jeep ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #34 |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
| ![]()
Sweet pictures! I like your shackle, wheels is going to put that to good use! ![]() That shackle is what I was looking for, are you going to whore out where you got it? I like your jeep body, do you crawl with it or is it a shelf queen? |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #35 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
No, it's got some rock rash, it'll go to the next event. I got the shackle at Ace hardware and the mount there too. it's part of a hasp. Oh, it's a 3/16" shackle clevis. the 1/4" one would work too but it would come close to hitting the rear servo. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #36 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 181
| ![]()
And couls you all help me please? Ive finnaly got to cut it, but i want to do it right, so i would like you to tell me how ![]() this is the picture, and if you could outline where to cut ( for best efect), where to drill for new tranny mount ( or where to mount it) and where to drill for new links, i want to make it longer about 16-16,5 and i think ill make it a bit higher, ill probably put revo shafts there ( will they fit this wheelbase?). Sorry for so much questions but i want to do it very badly and want to do it right, ill make new links of solid aluminum rod so it may use stock ones or custom made. Thank You very much!! |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #37 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
Well you can see in the above pics where I cut mine. I used a air sawzall with the chassis still assembled. Since yours is stripped I'd used a bandsaw. If you have access to one. You can cut an inch off the chassis if you cut the tranny mountlike I did. I cut another 1/4" because i made my skid plate to make up the difference. I took 14 pics of my rigs transformation and they'll all here. You should be able to figure it out. Rev shafts will work with a 16"+ WB. Not usre if it wrote it in here but I swapped my links. lowers to uppers and so on. then cut a 1/4" off the longer links(now the lowers). to achieve 15.25" WB it would have been 16" without it. But you'r have to make longer uppers. I really like how mine came out. it works well. and the susp. geometry seems good. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any ?'s |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #38 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 181
| ![]()
So basicly if i cut off like to the second "stage" ( you know what i mean?) it will be like yours? I plan on making a skid like yours ( how did you do it?) but one thing where to drill hole for link mounts?? I see where you did it but will it change much if i would drill it a bit higher or lower? Thanks alot for help, and i think ill get someone with proper tools ( i dont have almost any) to do it for me, cut it and drill.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #39 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
| ![]()
all I did was figure out where I'd get the best geometry for the susp. and then cut the tranny, cut the frame, made the skid with a sheetmetal break, then drilled the holes for the lower links I used the crossmember holes for the uppers, mounted the links and axles then figured how to get the right caster angle. 0* If you mount them like i did you'll be fine, you'll have to figure out how to lengthen the uppers to your 16+" WB but that can be done by changeing the ball ends too. Kyosho 6.8 ends will add 1/2" I think total. So that would work I bet. A lot og guys are using the same hole for both upper & lower frame side. And it seems to work fine but I wanted it to be more realistic. Someday i'll do a four link on a 1:1 rig and want to learn as much as possible about it. Hope that helps. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #40 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 181
| ![]()
Yea it helped alot, one more thing, did you move your tranny up any?? I would like to keep stock shock mountings but if it will help that much i can modified that too ( if im here already why not do it ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |