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Thread: TXT-1 Axle Modification and Link Mounts

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Old 02-14-2010, 09:55 AM   #1
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Default Mavrim's TXT-1 Buildup

Hi everyone, this is my first posting here! I am in the process of building up my TXT-1 Monster Truck out of parts left over from the Juggernaut 2 (or should I say Juggernaut 1 fiasco - LOL).

In 1999 I began customizing the axles on a Juggernaut prior to even using the truck. By the time I was making progress to the custom axles, users were finding that the gears were getting stripped out in their Jugg axles and transmissions. Tamiya fixed the problem by extending the shafts on the axle gears and adding bearing supports to maintain proper gear mesh. The transmission was beefed up and heat sinks added. I was fortunate to get several sets of replacement upgraded Jugg 2 parts at that time. I then shelved the entire project and never carried forward on the buildup. With the realease of the TXT-1 truck I decided to attempt building my truck out of the new Jugg 2 parts I had. Too bad that the TXT-1 was discontinued a year and a half ago. So here is what I have to work with:

Last edited by mavrim; 02-27-2010 at 03:02 PM. Reason: Wrong spelling
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Old 02-14-2010, 10:10 AM   #2
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Last edited by mavrim; 02-16-2010 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 02-14-2010, 10:25 AM   #3
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This is what my original custom axle looked like when it was built up with Jugg 1 axles. My original had the link mounts attached along with a custom servo bracket that was screwed into the case and painted red.

As much as I like this design, I am thinking of keeping the truck more simple and not go as fancy.




This is what I am thinking of doing for the current build? I flattened the front of the axle case to allow for the servo to sit closer to the housing. Not sure if I even want to mount the servo in the front? I am thinking of doing the rear mount using the bracket mod I saw on this forum. I cut off the extended portions of the spring perch mounts and will be using upper and lower stay brackets from the TLT-1 truck (as shown in first set of pictures showing mockup of this build). In the last picture you will notice the filled in lower planetary cover. I do not know why Tamiya had to make a notch instead of making this rounded like a real truck?






Last edited by mavrim; 02-16-2010 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:45 PM   #4
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I would appreciate any feedback as to what the best link mount positions are and any general info that will help with my build, even driveline components. I notice many use the stock plastic bumper supports to mount their links. I don't have all the stock TXT-1 parts since I am working from a Jugg 2 platform. I had to machine 4" chassis support bars because I could not find them from Tamiya as spare parts. Last night I came across an auction that had a parts bag with them in it, but too late now.

I found the Tamiya metal TLT-1 stay brackets to be the best for the link mounts, so I am not even concerned with the lack of those plastic bumper pieces. Today I attached the rear axle and made a few changes to link positioning. Looking at the brackets I bolted in place for the shocks, does it look like they would be sturdy mounted with one bolt like that? If I choose to keep those mounts like that, I may need to add a side support?

The shocks you see in the above pictures are vintage Trinity clod buster shocks (never used) - LOL. I am thinking of getting 8 HPI savage shocks to use instead? If I do use those, I would have to attach them from the top of the body post mount instead of the bottom (frame rail top) as shown in the above pictures.

The lower links shown will not be installed, I have since removed them as the model sits on the work bench.

I made the link bars out of 5/16" aluminum cut to 5" length, with the ends tapered and tapped for stainless steel 3mm heim joints that I purchased from RC4WD. The center to center measurement is 6" and the spacing on the chassis is 2", which would give me a 14" wheelbase.

Last edited by mavrim; 02-15-2010 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 02-16-2010, 01:00 AM   #5
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Here are some more pics taken today! I am still doing a preliminary assembly to determine proper link locations, etc...








Last edited by mavrim; 02-16-2010 at 01:04 AM.
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Old 02-19-2010, 02:29 AM   #6
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Looking very good so far!

this is how I made my steering / link setup. (first pic is without the tubing for the links)




As you can see I made BTA brackets for the servo's. These do need some finetuning, but worked fine so far. I also kept the pushrod suspension, because I think it looks good!

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Old 02-19-2010, 02:05 PM   #7
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nice to see some txts still looking like monsters!
both of those steering setups look pretty nice.
im a little concerned for the first one... those top link mounts are kind of a weak spot to begin with.
i wonder how they will hold up with the stress of the steering, not to mention an impact.
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:53 AM   #8
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Mark - I am going to go with the BTA servo mount like you have!

Update: I have since painted both axles housings red. The stock black gloss plastic look was nice, but after doing plastic removal it did not look as nice. I have the gears in one and need to get the other one assembled.

My Trinity clod buster shocks are approx 4 1/2" long with at least 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" of travel. I was going to get 4 or 8 of the Integy reservoir savage shocks that are approx 6 1/2" long, but from what I gather, the travel isn't any better than my trinity shocks, only larger diameter shafts. Any thoughts to the savage shocks over the New Old Stock Trinitys I have from the 90's? My current shocks bolt right into the top frame rails where the body mount goes. Looks like the savage shocks would need to be mounted higher at the top of the mount which has the 2 screw holes too close together.

Last edited by mavrim; 02-22-2010 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:26 PM   #9
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Here's the latest on the TXT-1 buildup. I painted both axles to match the red tranny. Gears are installed and shimmed to take up excess slack within the axle housings. I found that the differential had too much side to side play, so I was able to use thin washers/shims on each side of the diff to eliminate that. I also found one of the counter gears that sits on the half moon shaft to be very loose. I used some red locktite to hold that gear in place. I also used red locktite on the right angle gears and spline shafts to keep them in place.

Here are the latest pics:






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Old 02-23-2010, 07:39 PM   #10
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I notice that most people use aluminum steering knuckles like the ones I bought (see pics above). I installed them to get an overall idea of what it would look like. I had to snug down on the pivot screws to stabilize the steering knuckles, otherwise they seem wobbly. How does everyone else tighten these knuckles without making it too tight to turn freely? My guess is to locktite the threads just when the knuckle are able to move freely, and hope that they do not loosen up and become wobbly. Would it help to make aluminum spacers to replace those nylon ones?
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:40 PM   #11
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I would not mount the servo like this:



The upper link post has enough stress on it as it is, mounting a servo like that is going to add unwanted breakage I would think. Plus those upper TXT link mounts are getting hard to find!!
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Old 02-23-2010, 07:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666 View Post
I would not mount the servo like this. The upper link post has enough stress on it as it is, mounting a servo like that is going to add unwanted breakage I would think. Plus those upper TXT link mounts are getting hard to find!!
I decided after making that prototype to go with the Behind The Axle (BTA) servo setup. I plan on making front and rear brackets like the ones shown on this site. To make it easier to fit the servo between the driveshaft and link bars, I plan to add an adjustable mount. I just bought a spare set of axle housings with upper link caps.

Last edited by mavrim; 02-23-2010 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:03 PM   #13
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Not sure if you have checked out the ROCKTAPUS build but here is a good BTA setup for a standard size servo.

"ROCTAPUS"
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 666 View Post
Not sure if you have checked out the ROCKTAPUS build but here is a good BTA setup for a standard size servo.
Yep, that is one of the BTA's I saw. Another one had the servo mounted at an angle to the driveshaft and not horizontal to the axle. I plan to follow that design and make it adjustable so that you can move it back and forth between the driveshaft and link bar for best clearance.
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Old 02-27-2010, 03:46 PM   #15
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Here is the latest on my TXT-1 buildup. Still need to make the BTA steering mount and connect the steering linkage:









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Old 02-27-2010, 04:52 PM   #16
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I would mount my lower links inside the chassis, like you have the upper links.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I would mount my lower links inside the chassis, like you have the upper links.
I took your advice while setting up the rear half of the truck and will do the same for the front!
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:18 PM   #18
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keep building, I want to see this one finished.
I have extra sets of Jugg2 and TXT axles that might be getting used for a monster build soon and your giving me ideas.
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:53 AM   #19
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lookin' good. cant wait for more!
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:55 PM   #20
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Where can I find those Axle stays? You are using them for shock mounts and link mounts on the axles. Manufacture and part number would be great if possible.
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