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Thread: Dig For TXT/Jugg How to.

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Old 10-09-2006, 04:18 PM   #1
Don
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Default Dig For TXT/Jugg How to.

Are You sick of clods kiking your but becuase they can dig? I was so I came up with a way to get my TXT to do digs. It is done internaly in ether the rear or front axles or both.

I will post pic's as I go. This is my first write up so bear with me.

The tools you will need:
T wrench or nut drivers/sockets
Philleps screwdriver &/ Allen wrenches
Side cuter
Dremel
Drill bits
Cut off discs
Hole reamer

Parts Needed:
One HS-81MG Servo (per axle) cost $26.99
one set 18T front Blue Spring (good for two axles) part #21198 cost $2.50
Associated long and short body clips (good for two axles) Part #1734
cost $4.95
One 1/8 round stainless steel tube (good for two axles) Stock #7111
cost $2.50
1/8 x 2 inch angle aluminum (4 foot long good for two axles) cost $4.75
Prices are from my local LHS/hardwere store

1. Remove top diff cover and pull out bevel gear shaft with bevel gear and drive gear.
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Last edited by Don; 10-11-2006 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:24 PM   #2
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2.Remove gears, center bearing/bushing and E-clip from bevel gear shaft.

3. cut flange on back of bevel gear down to 1/16 inch and ream out front of bevel gear so it will slide on gear shaft.
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Last edited by Don; 10-09-2006 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:32 PM   #3
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and..................



Impatiently waiting..............(FOOT TAPPING......arms crossed)
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:34 PM   #4
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4.Cut 18T front blue spring so it measures a 32nd more then 1/2 inch.

5.Put cut side of spring in groove of drive gear. Reinstall bevel gear and bearings/bushing on bevel gear shaft.
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:40 PM   #5
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Be patient rockwerks I'm getting there.

6.remove center bearing suppot from diff and diff cover.

7.drill a 1/8 hole in diff cover as shown in pic.
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Old 10-09-2006, 04:50 PM   #6
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8.bend an s in the end of one of the long body clips and cut it so it is just over 1 1/8 inch reach or so. You will have to measure this your self. Go a little to long.

9. Sleeve body clip with 1/8 steel tube cut to about 1 1/8 inch long and soder in place. I cut a groove in the sleeve for the s to lock in. Then crimpted it to make sure it will not move. Then grind the other end to a point so it will fit in the teeth of the bevel gear.
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Last edited by Don; 10-11-2006 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:00 PM   #7
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10.Make servo mount and assemble. Adjust servo end points and movement. (Be carfull on this step. If the end points arn't set up right the servo will pull the arm to far out and it will not go back in with out taking it all apart.)

Also I have tosted one HS-81MG by running 6.2V's to it. It works fine with
4.8V's
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Last edited by Don; 10-09-2006 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:06 PM   #8
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I think this sould get a sticky.
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:10 PM   #9
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BRAVO........can you show pics of it engaged and disengaged......
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:44 PM   #10
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The top cover holds the arm so it pushes on the bevel gear and locks it. It is hard to see with out it being together. But I took a pic of it unlocked and one of what it looks like locked. When locked the bevel gear should be slid away from the input bevel gear as far as it will go.

Here are the pics. I hope you can get the idea.
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:49 PM   #11
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Don I take take back all the bad things I said about you...........(well most anyway)

Very slick.

could you also smooth off the splines of the shaft to make it work?
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:03 PM   #12
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No, I thought of that as well. The bevel gear is to wide. If you ground out half the splins in the bevel gear and the shaft it mite work. But I don't know if it will slide back to rengage power or not. Plus it mite make a weak point and I have anof of them already.

What I like about this set up is it works and the wight is on the axles. Not high on the chasses.

Last edited by Don; 10-09-2006 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 06:57 PM   #13
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Cool idea, one question though. Does that spring keep the bevel gears meshed while under a load? I would think the gears would disingage or slip under large loads.
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:03 PM   #14
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I ran it in the comp last sunday and it worked sweet. The truck came in second. I had no sliping under large loads. In fact if it works like I did not mod it.
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Old 10-09-2006, 07:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don
I ran it in the comp last sunday and it worked sweet. The truck came in second. I had no sliping under large loads. In fact if it works like I did not mod it.

it works no different than a 1:1 limited slip diff. or any selectable locker. some use springs some use air to engage the diff. heck one even uses magnetics.
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:08 PM   #16
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Default nice mod Don

Thanks for posting this up Don...it works well on the bench, now I just need to build a chassis for this 2.2 txt with dig. Its super simple to do all it toulk was the right person to think it up and make it happen.

Chad-
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grover
Thanks for posting this up Don...it works well on the bench, now I just need to build a chassis for this 2.2 txt with dig. Its super simple to do all it toulk was the right person to think it up and make it happen.

Chad-

I was just looking at one of my extra diff's and it just hit me like a ton of bricks. I could not figger out why I did not think of it before.


Here are some pic's of the TXT this set up is on.

cowboyrc's chasses, lay down TXT trans, GD600, 55t, and so on.
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Last edited by Don; 10-11-2006 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 10-09-2006, 08:37 PM   #18
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I LOVE YOU MAN thanx for the idea i think i might do this mod
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:42 PM   #19
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Nice job Don.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don
I think this sould get a sticky.
Then we should sticky all the dig set ups then shouldn't we?
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:52 PM   #20
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WTF I LOVE WHERE YOU PUT THE BATTS. GREAT JOB
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