TXT drive line weak link

[badger]

I was wondering if the Max Sliders are actually the smartest/econmical way to go for a drive shaft in a modified TXT.

As I was crawling my TXT and noticed my rear slider is getting all twisted I was thinking if I had the stock driveshafts or some other strong metal shafts, I might actually be doing damage in other parts in the drive line.

I think it might be better having the drive shafts being the weekest link. I would much rather replace a $7 slider then a $200 axel.

What do you guys think?

Here is a pic of my twisted sliders. Like you haven't seen one before!

[rckjeep]

I definitely here ya. I haven't lengthened the WB yet but I bought some sliders today to check them out. But even with the crawlbox and 9t pinion I didn't break anything with the stock shafts. I do agree you definitely need a fusable link and driveshaft are the easiest to change and cheapest.

What's your gearing at?

[badger]

I am just using the stock spur gear and the 9 tooth pinion. I want to go with a Mammoth gear reduction but not completly sure yet. It does not go very fast at all and is very controlable at crawling speeds.

[rckjeep]

it doesn't go fast as is? I was thinking of running mine that way. The crawl box and INTEGY motor are kinda boring when not crawling.

[bustedcrawler]

I have been toying with an idea to make them stronger for a while now. But I can not test them until I get longer links and need Maxx sliders.

I wasn't going to annouce my idea until I had done it and tried it, but it seems like now is a good time since there are soo many people having issues.


What I am going to do with mine is to drill down the length of the splines on both ends, and insert some music wire, with expoy in the hole. The splines twist due to the lack or shear resistance and torsional stiffness in the plastic. By adding a small diameter wire that is bonded via the expoy to the shaft you will increase the stiffness and shear resistance.

I figure there are 3 possible outcomes:

1) They suck, and it was a bad idea
2) No change
3) They flat out work

Feel free to try this out and let me know how it works.

[fullmodtxt]

Oh boy, let's not get into twisted/popped/mangled/pretzeled sliders... As a few of the CT guys can vouch for, I have a pile of destroyed sliders big enough to compete with anybody else's!!! I have twisted the male ends, snapped the male ends right off the universal, broken males in 2 pieces, twisted universals, and I've even twisted a female slider!!
I have to agree that the sliders bieng the weak link is a good idea. They are quickly and easily replaced, although the cost can add up after a few pretzeled sliders. I still feel that it is better than going with bullet-proof driveshafts and stripping tranny gears or busting axles or axle planetary gears.
The stock shafts are not reliable at all, they are brass and get sloppy very quickly. Once they get sloppy, they just plain fall apart. And yes, I have literally shattered a few stock brass universals. They are even less reliable than Traxxas sliders in my opinion. Vince

[badger]

Bustedcrawler, My point was I think it is good that they are the weakest part of my drive line.

fullmodtxt, thanks for the reply, now all we need to do is get a good line on better prices for the sliders.

[SATAYO]

Are you guys T-Maxx 2.5 sliders? If not, the 2.5 sliders I believe are beefier and loger if I'm not mistaken. I also agree that is a good thing that weakest part of the driveline would be these, it does save on parts. I do think that the Traxxas sliders are the most economical route. And that just my 2 cents...you asked

-SATAYO

[badger]

Yep I am using the 2.5 sliders with the X at the end of the part #. That is there newer stronger release of the sliders.

[bustedcrawler]

Badger: I fully agree that the driveshaft would be a nice weak link, I am merely suggesting a way to extend the life of the shaft. Not to make it bombproof.

In my situation in both 1:1 and r/c, I want a weak link, but not one that fails often enough to create a "pile" of shafts as some people have. I enjoy crawlin more than wrenching. And I do love my wrenching. I also know that in my situation, I can not really affoard to be constantly fixing my truck, weather the part is $6 or $600.

But these are my feelings, and my opinions, yours may vary. I just thought I would pass along my idea on extending the life of the part. There is no easy way that you could make a Maxx slider stronger than the other parts up or downstream of the slider.

[DirkDigler]

Badger,
One way to really help things out is to lengthen your female ends. When the suspension compresses, the driveshafts only compress very, very slightly. So.....you can run the drive shafts so there is hardly any male end showing. (the female end should almost touch the male end yoke) This will give you more splined together surface area and will limit the twisting.
All you have to do is lengthen the female tubes.

[itamar]

I think that will work it look strong enough!



If some one know were I ken get it please poster a attach!

[DirkDigler]

$100 buck a pop!!!

I'll keep buying the plastics!!!!!

[fullmodtxt]

Hi guys. Dirk, I have tried extending the female ends. It works for a while. Problem is that it doesn't reduce the amount of stress on the male slider, it just "localizes" the stress or lumps all the stress into that 1 small area of male slider that is exposed. I have snapped the male slider right off of the universal with the extended female ends.
Vince

[TXTFUN]

I don't really think you need a such a weak link in the drivetrain. I have only heard of 2 guys breaking an axle one time each which arn't that expensive but other than that they are pretty strong. I use a urethane type of bluetac kind of stuff in the diffs which has a tiny bit of give so that's my kind of pressure relief. I twisted a slider only 5 minutes after putting them in and that was enough for me so I filled the centre of the male section with epoxy and they are tough as now. I also use two female sections as the ends so the yolk joints are stronger and run the male section with the end cut off between them.

I run 2 motors with 9t pinions so don't have the reduction you guys use but it still has enough torque to get the wheels wedged in pretty good and I dont break stuff. Maybe driving style plays a big part in how much stuff you break.

I don't mean to be rude or tread on too many toes here but it just seems a little strange to me that that your trucks break so much.

[rckjeep]

it just seems a little strange to me that that your trucks break so much

I guess us Yanks just try harder.


Seriously, I haven't broken a slider yet but I also haven't lengthened the WB yet either. I'm still running the stock driveshafts. I've snapped the link mounts on the axle and pulled an end out of a susp. link but that's it so far.

[fullmodtxt]

Muzz, I'm running a pair of Titans w/9 tooth pinions on a single 6-cell pack, so I would guess that we're in the same boat as far as power/gear reduction. I agree, there is plenty of torque still available, even without gear reductions.
I also agree that driving style probably has something to do with all this stuff. I like trying any different lines that I can find, sometimes they get kinda hairy! I'm not the kind of driver that gives up easily niether! I just keep attempting lines untill I get it or a slider pops! I like your idea; running 2 female sliders with a male (removed from the universal) between them. I'll try that, I'll let you know how it works! Vince

[TXTFUN]

Glad you didn't take what I said the wrong way, these boards and emails and stuff can be taken in the wrong context some times.

I've been meaning to ask you guys how the one motor and extra reduction goes. I havn't seen the need with enough torque as is, I definately wouldn't want to half it without more reduction though but quite often I find I need the wheel speed to get me up obsticals and with lower gearing I would think that would restrict you.

I will put a post up next week with all the details of what was once a TXT and what I have done with it, I did do it ages ago with the prototype chassis but my proper one should be back from the welder next week and it'll look alot more pretty. I run the gearbox upside down to get my COG lower and have made everything to suit it, In our comp yesterday I'm pretty sure I came in 2nd (final result not in yet) from a field of about 12 with only 4 shafties. That is the highest placed shafty ever in a land full of very well sorted Clods so I'm pretty pumped and think I have a winning setup.

Anyway enough of talking myself up.

Cheers. Muzz

[fullmodtxt]

Muzz, I'm anxious to see the details!! I always enjoy seeing other TXTs!! Rarely are 2 ever the same, everybody does thier own thing with them. There is always something to learn from seeing other setups and preferences.
I know what you mean about the internet bieng able to screw up well-intended conversations, it has happened to lots of us! After it happens to you once or twice, you kinda get "de-sensitized" and learn to take all this type in a different context .
I ran with KonaJoe and his TXT at a state forest in CT. He is running a single motor with the Tamiya Mammoth gear reduction. Serious gear reduction there !! I didn't notice any large advantage with all of the reduction. There was one particular rock that nobody could crawl; I got my TXT to go up after a few tries. We all agreed that it was the extra tirespeed that got my truck to climb it.
And then I got stuck in a spot that everybody else got through! My TXT was too wide and just couldn't straddle the logs over a hole. The other guys just scooted roght over! That illustrates what I was getting at earlier in this post; it is good to run with others to see what is what with your truck! Sounds like you have done that!! Again, I'm anxious to see your truck! Vince