my new wip (nsfdu)
 

I got this used project here in may, then moved, then started tearing it apart a little and re-working it. it is now stipped down and in pretty good form. There are still a few tweaks to be made (like always) based on budget availability (like always).

I tried to get everything as low as possible, including the body
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9328.jpg

this meant my ESC is actually riding in the bed
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9329.jpg

I haven't fixed the steering yet, there is a 3/4 inch horn on the servo, and the ball is in the middle hole. this gives MAYBE half of full swing on the rear steer.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9330.jpg

I tried playing with the front steer, I used a couple of plastic horns and CA'd them together witha couple of small screws to get the horn length out to 1.125" to gt full swing. Now the HS-775 is lacking the gonads to swing the steering, but it will go lock to lock in the air.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9331.jpg

Naked shot in all it's glory
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9332.jpg

stock shocks, full droop, no oils change yet, but I hav a botle of 100 weight waiting, chassis return spring, dual integy 55t motors in series with GD-600's runing into the tranny.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9333.jpg

I made battery holders from some scrap aluminum. the batts sit at level with the chassis, and the 7 cell stick is fully protected.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9334.jpg


rear suspension look. about 2' of servo wire and reverser extension wound around that brace.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9335.jpg

level front shot with the goofy horn.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/IMG_9336.jpg

I need to fix the steering, get some servos with serious cajones, neaten up some other details, and it should be good to go.

Nice. Now I get the question about the Super Duty in the electronics section. 2 55T lathes on 2 GD-600s that's an a**load of torque!!! Those stock driveshafts don't stand a chance, I think anything short of revos won't last, even those might not make it if the tires get wedged. Have you run it yet? Do you like it as it is? Just thinking maybe you might want to take off one 55T and GD, and one battery pack, and lay the remaining gd/motor down and relocate the batteries lower. Seems like a lot of weight up high. Just my 2 cents, it depends on how you like it. Again nice rig. "thumbsup"


I know I need a signature :roll:

i agree rewire that esc for one batt one motor and and run a rx pack with some 1/4 scale servos
no you dont :lol:

yeah, everything is a lot lower than it was when i got it, link geometry is better too.

the 775's are 1/4 scale, but tower lists them as only 199 oz.in.@6v

you are right about the shafts, they are the weak link now, and it hasn't been outside yet. but I am a step in the right direction. I got a complete revo shaft package yesterday, they are just still in bags.

running it around inside, I have stalled the rig out (got it wedged between the basement steps and a bench vise I was crawling over) and when it starts to really bunch up it gives up and went slack, and I had to pull the throttle again to get it going. I thought that was odd, but I think it may be just the driveshaft spinning in it's U joint. I ended up rear wheel drive at one point, then I got the set screw tightend down on the flat, so the next time it will just shear something :)

Another question. the Super Duty gives 100% power in reverse and forward. right now the way the rig is layed out with the motors in front, I'm actually running the esc in reverse. this gives me almost instant reverse with double pump forward. Is that asking for trouble with the ESC?

I put the batteries where they went to get weight forward. they really can't go down much, I have about 1/4" clearance between the tire and the batt tray at articulation and steering maxxes. I could move them center and down on the chassis to keep them between the tires without rubbing, but idunno, without the batts, i can almost get it to stand up on it's side walls with the batts it is a little too top heavy, moving them down would help that, I just didn't know if that would give it more places to get hung up. And i really won't know until I get it out on something besides a carpeted 2 step going to the livingroom from the kitchen.

how well do those droop springs work? that seems like a cool idea i might try"thumbsup"

If you put in a 6v reciever pack, your steering will be significantly improved. You are sharing the BEC between 2 1/4 scale servos, thats why it wont steer.

damn got enought power? haha... i still miss my txt. i sold it on here and havent seen it since.

well, i'm running two 7 cell packs. 16.8v nominal 19.6 peaked.
still only a quasi fast walk. forward traction is excellent. I managed to climb everything i attempted. in forwards anyway. one reverse climb did turtle, but hey, its reverse.

the steering is sloppy as heck. the 199oz.in. just don't cut it.
the goe trax are 4.25" wide, and the steering pivot is inside the tire edge. the servo has to swing tire 4.75" away form the pivot. I have thought about narrowing the tire, or at least putting a wheel with less offset on to bring tire center closer to pivot center.

the plastic front horn broke, i got an aluminum horn to take it's place. it looks good in air.

I was looking at the towerpro 995's, and the site said 4.8-8.4v
maybe 8.2. but regardless, if it makes 208oz.in. @6v, it should make more at more voltage at the risk of letting out the magic smoke of course,
I just don't know if it would be enough. I hat the idea of having to buck up for HS5995's

figured out my steering throw problem.
My D/R was turned down.
Boy do I feel like an idiot.

I also bucked up for a new radio. now I am running the servo horns on the 1/2" hole and upped the EPA to 120%.

I got the revo shafts installed in place of the stock metal shafs. I was cake, I pushed out the pin holding the stub axle in place and fit that to the transmission so I did have to turn down the end. The pin was a TIGHT fit back in, so I don't think it will fall out too easily.

I relocate teh servos below their mounts to put them more in line with the knuckles. That eliminated some of the flex, but not enough.

that thing should do four wheel burnouts and still have power to fly to the moon

power maybe, wheelspeed, hardley.

ok, Power is a definite.

I was playing on the woodpile, and before I knew it was stuck, it was over. 3wd.
And here I was hoping to try and figure out my runtime. I have been driving the thing off and on for a week on it's first charge.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0710071908.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0710071910.jpg

I guess it's axle time.

I did discover one wheel and tire clock in at 26 ounces. this thing is a pig.

ok, I got the stainless axles from rc4wd and the 23mm splined hexes for the proline mounted moabs that are currently too much for the WK to push. those should be here sometime next week.

While I have the axle apart, does anybody know if shims would help to take care of the roughly 40* of lash the wheels have?

I've never cracked tha case on one of these before, any suggestions? nothing going to come falling out I can't figure out how to put back in?

So I opened up the axle.
Nothing too scary. I did think about eliminating the inner snap rings so the Nex axle change would only involve removing the hub and sliding out the axle.
Don't know if anyone can tell me why that wouldn't work.
Especially if I used some of those red O-rings the WK uses to keep the spacing correct for it's axles.

I did find my slop. It is in the top end. Not in the bevel gears, but in the intermediate shaft. between the second bevel and the top gear. there is quite a bit of wiggle. I haven't taken it apart yet, but it looks like my next weak point will be the top gear hub bore stipping out.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0716071114.jpg

OK, So the axle housing only has bearing retainer lips molded on one side, and the E clip holds the bearing on the other side.
Got it.
Guess there will be no easy quick change axles.

I got the axle put back together with the 23mm adapters. I Put the Moab-XL's on the truck. the links cleared, but the battery trays didn't. Fine. i wanted to move those down anyway. The batteries have been lowered about an inch and a quarter down, but had to move about 2 inches back.
The moab's are weighted, the fronts weigh right at 24oz and the rears are 17 oz.
The Giant Tracks weighed in between 23 and 27oz on all 4 corners.
I shaved a POUND off my rig by changing tires.
Today I ran it for the first time in a couple of weeks. i had it going through grass and climbing a mulch pile repeatedly. I got about 50 minutes of run time off of it. and I hadn't charged it in 2 months. I'm going to get bored before I run out of juice.

The Moab XL's are actually about 1/2 an inch taller than the giant tracks, and about an inch narrower. Tire is actually hanging over the pivot, and the servos are not as undersized as they had been. I'd say overall width of the truck has been reduced by about 3" from 16.25 to 13.5' wide.
The WB is floating around 16.5"
I need to make some limit straps for the axles. As high as the links are on the axles, it allows wheels to fall into holes and bind.

Here are the latest pics.
Sorry for the crappy cell phone, but it is all I have right now.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0716071422.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0716071424.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0716071426.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0716071428.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0716071435.jpg

well, I took some vids, but they suck, and a fun filled stripping noise startd. I get to get into tranny land next I guess.

uuuhm one thing...
Those arent xl's ;-)
But youre rig is looking great! but indeed take one motor of of it to take some high placed weight away:)

But aaahm its looking preetyy cool! you dont see alot people that try the stock chassis any more"thumbsup"

Well, i know its no 2.2 :-P
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0717071534.jpg

I have a BL system on it's way. I may look to replace the 55t's with the one BL. it is 833 kv, so I can probably ditch the GD-600's too. I may put the novak and 55t setup in another chassis. Been thinking Lipo with it too. keep the 14 cells with the novak.

Thanks for the comment. I know everyone ditches their stock chassis's usually, but it is aluminum, just drill a hole in the right place and you are done. It is a little on the wide side, but other than that I have no complaints."thumbsup"

Well, anyone got TXT tranny gears laying around?


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...0717071648.jpg

There are 2 sort's of 40 series Moabs,
The Xl's and normal 'wide' 40 series moabs.

You've got the normal wide versions;-) for sure.
But i had them also and i thing there just as good but some like the xl's more than the normal ones but thats all personal preference"thumbsup"

You should indeed take of 1 55 lathe because onbe 55t with gd is fine 8)

Succes with the rig and have fun on the rocks