- How To - TXT Tranny Mount

[kona_joe]

Hey Guys,

I noticed a few of you are looking for ideas to mounting the tranny after you cut off the lower plastic mount. I figured I’d share with you how I did it on my TXT.

Spanning the width of the frame is a new cross member made from ¼ Aluminum Square tubing, tapped to 3mm on the both ends. I then added a .060 aluminum plate and attached it to the area where the factory heatsink was installed with a couple of old bushings for spacers.

Hope this helps,
Joe


Top View



Side View



Bottom View

[AFJ]

theyr great man!! It maybe good project for future, and as i heard here when both links are triangulated it eliminates the "bump steer" or what its called

[SupermanWV]

Kona_joe,

How did you run just one motor in your TXT? I've never seen that done before. Is it better than running 2 motors? Let me in on some info. Additional pics would be nice too. My email is supermanwv@lycos.com.

Thanks alot.

Clark

[rckjeep]

Running one motor is easy. You just don't put two in and cover up the hole. BUt what I wanna know is how he centered that single motor?

The benefits for crawling are longer run times. With our slow moving style we don't need two motors. Two motors just kills your battery twice as fast. Yes you'll have more power with two but we don't need to go fast.

[AFJ]

and are maxx sliders really that better?? they can be found on e bay for not much, does them allow to lenghten the wheelbase??

[SupermanWV]

If you go to his personal website. You will see the parts list to center the motor. He has a gear reduction unit on there. That is essentially how he centered the motor. Check it out. Go to his profile and click personal website.

Later

Clark

[kona_joe]

Originally Posted by SupermanWV

If you go to his personal website. You will see the parts list to center the motor. He has a gear reduction unit on there. That is essentially how he centered the motor. Check it out. Go to his profile and click personal website.

Later

Clark

Yeah it's the Mammoth Gearbox along with a Single Mag Mayhem & TTR adjustable motor mount w/8 tooth pinion. It put my overall crawl ratio @ 149:1 pretty low but I can still jump on the throttle if I need a little wheel speed for a particular obstacle.

The Mammoth box is not as cost effective as the GD-600 airplane reduction unit but it is a 100% bolt on.

Joe

[rockrash2004]

Kona... Are your wheels narrowed? This Pic -

[Distressed]

in the pic above, kona, are those maximizer beadlocks?

[kona_joe]

They are stock width Maximizer Beadlocks

Joe

[badger]

For those who do not feel like searching for Kona_joe's website here you go. It has nice, easy to read info on there. Hope you don't mind Kona_joe.

http://home.comcast.net/~kona_joe/

[rckjeep]

I absolutely love that truck. Sweet rig. And if my GD 600 doesn't work I"m going Mammoth for sure.

[AFJ]

and what would you think about mammoth AND GD600?? overkill?

[kona_joe]

Originally Posted by AFJ

and what would you think about mammoth AND GD600?? overkill?

That depends on what type of motor you plan on running. I run a single Mag Mayhem with the Mammoth @ 149.1 and there are times I wish I had more wheel speed. It seems plenty low enough with the MGT tires that I’m running. Perhaps if you where running a Brushless setup or a hotter turn motor then more reduction would be needed due to the increased rpm that those types of motors usually run.

Joe

[CSR]

Kona_Joe, I really like your truck! I haven't started assembling my TXT yet and I'm already wanting to do a dual triangulated four-link, cut the chassis and move everything up. 8O Your bellypan/lower link mount is super nice.

I have a question about your wheels. The Maxx wheels have more backspacing than TXT wheels, do the adapters put the Maxx wheels out far enough to keep the track width close to stock? And which adapters are you using? Thundertech?

[kona_joe]

Originally Posted by CSR

I have a question about your wheels. The Maxx wheels have more backspacing than TXT wheels, do the adapters put the Maxx wheels out far enough to keep the track width close to stock? And which adapters are you using? Thundertech?

You will lose about 1" in width

15”--- Stock Tires on Narrowed TXT rims





14”--- BFT Tires on Maximizer Beadlocks & TTR Max Adapters




Hope this helps,
Joe

[CSR]

Originally Posted by kona_joe

You will lose about 1" in width

Hope this helps,
Joe

That's what I was needing to know, thank you! I didn't know if I should buy standard Maxx wheels or 'widetracks'. Now I don't know if I want to added diff clearance of the narrow or the stability of the wide..... so many choices! :? Thanks again, Kona_Joe for the info and pictures.

[schlabinski]

Kona_Joe, I noticed that you updated your website with some new pictures (great looking beach crawl by the way!) and tech articles.

Out of curiousity, will you be willing to go into any more detail on your chassis mods? I am interested in how you do your lower suspension link mounts on the chassis side (e.g. are the balls mounted directly to your skidplate? Are the screw heads sticking out of your skid, or did you use a countersink?). More body off pics please!

I am also interested in learning more about your new battery tray and which battery holder you are using, but I see that you might have an upcoming tech article about that.

And, lastly, what are your overall impressions of the changes you made now that you have had more crawl time with it? Did you do anything to counteract the travel lost by moving the cants to the outside of the frame? What do you think about the dual triangulation setup? Anything you would do differently if you were to do it again?

I apologize for all of the questions, but your truck looks really great. I have been patiently waiting for more info, but my curiousity got the best of me!

[kona_joe]

Originally Posted by schlabinski

Out of curiousity, will you be willing to go into any more detail on your chassis mods? I am interested in how you do your lower suspension link mounts on the chassis side (e.g. are the balls mounted directly to your skidplate? Are the screw heads sticking out of your skid, or did you use a countersink?). More body off pics please!

I am also interested in learning more about your new battery tray and which battery holder you are using, but I see that you might have an upcoming tech article about that.

Sure, I’ll try to update the webpage with more pics & info on the chassis & suspension mods ASAP. I started to setup the new pages the other day but they still need more information on them.

Originally Posted by schlabinski

And, lastly, what are your overall impressions of the changes you made now that you have had more crawl time with it? Did you do anything to counteract the travel lost by moving the cants to the outside of the frame? What do you think about the dual triangulation setup? Anything you would do differently if you were to do it again?

I apologize for all of the questions, but your truck looks really great. I have been patiently waiting for more info, but my curiosity got the best of me!

I’m still messing with different things like ride height, wheelbase and wheel travel. While I did lose some travel with the cants moved to the outside of the frame. The truck is much more stable and predictable with how it handles. The “TXT Sway” has pretty much disappeared. It will still lift the left front tire on steep climbs but it’s not as bad as it once was. I love the chassis clearance it has now, as it hardly high centers much. All in all I’m happy with the changes as the truck has definitely improved over “Stock” and I hope to refine it a little more.

I’m working on a couple of mods now and I’ll post the changes when there done.


Joe

[schlabinski]

Cool, thank you for the info and impressions. I'll periodically check in on your website to look for updates. Your work is inspiring me to do something about my chassis configuration. I'm tired of getting worked at all of the crawling gatherings I attend!