04-16-2005, 10:32 AM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
| Modding the TXT
Hello all, What I'm gonna ask, i believe has been asked before. But i didn't really quite get the info I was looking for. So here goes... 1) Shall I wire my TXT motors (Magnetic Mayhem) in Series or Parallel? 2) What are the pros and cons of either? 3) Anyone has a list of parts number for TXT aluminium hop-ups? I plan to run my TXT stock with only 6 or max 10 cell cell and a Super Rooster ESC. Therefore the 1st question. Thank you guys. Its great to be here Last edited by Ares17; 01-04-2006 at 09:48 AM. |
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04-17-2005, 12:57 PM | #2 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
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04-17-2005, 01:22 PM | #3 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
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I'd imagine two MMs with small 9 tooth pinions would have a lot of torque also. One Mag and a 9 tooth isn't enough, I know that from experience. But since the run time will be dramatically reduced because of the two motors, go for series. If that doesn't work out, go for parallel. But I'd consider the GD-600 set up also. |
04-17-2005, 06:26 PM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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I understand that using the GC600 needs to do some mod on the shaft. What kind of mod is it? I'd want to keep the stock drive train where possible.
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04-17-2005, 06:34 PM | #5 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
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You can drill out the 15 tooth pinion that comes with the TXT, and that's it. Rest of the mods are to the GD600, to make it mount up to the gearbox. |
04-26-2005, 10:47 AM | #6 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Hi all....finally got my TXT built up. I locked both the diff. And when the truck move, there's a 'tag tag tag' sound coming off the diff. At least i think thats where the sound came from. Can anyone shed some light if its really the diff or something else? Thank you. Oh....how come the trailing steering servo actually moves better than the front? Its like haveing rear wheel steering. (I got 4ws on it too). Thankx again. |
04-26-2005, 03:09 PM | #7 |
MODERATOR™ Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Ohio
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The ticking might be the set screw on the pinion gear hitting the spur gear. Take off the driveshafts to narrow down where it's coming from. Both my trucks have the better steering in the rear, no idea why, don't care either. Could be a combination of things like the locked diffs and weight transfer and weight balance, and whatever else. |
04-26-2005, 06:55 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 182
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Think the steering situation is caused by the pushing and pulling of the movement of the truck. The front axle is pushing which causes it to be harder to change the direction of the wheels while the rear axle is being pulled which makes the movement easier. The front axle could be compared to torque steer in a front wheel drive car. When the truck is in reverse the "front" will then steer better. Locked differentials will compound the situation since both tires are working to keep the axle going straight. Like EeePee said, it really isn't a problem. |
04-26-2005, 09:28 PM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
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I see. for a moment i thougt i might have the diff locked up all wrong. One more thing i noticed is that, when moving forward, the ttruck tends to lean down the right side; the right side for watever reason is lower than the left. but goes back to normal when the truck stopped. is my damper too soft or...? Thanx for the help guys...being a first time crawler, i'll be expecting to see the never seen before situations...hope you guys bear with me... |
04-26-2005, 10:13 PM | #10 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
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Your body rolls to that side because of the driveshafts. It's called "body roll" or "torque twist". I run a stiffer spring in the right rear of my rig to help fight it, I also run 80w shock oil in all 4 shocks. Link positions can be a factor too, upper links should be parallel to the ground. | |
04-27-2005, 02:31 AM | #11 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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ok..so its just the shafty thingy. and also, i've check, the upper links are parallel to the floor. It looks kinda weird with the truck moving when the right side is lower than the left By the way, i wired the motor in series and running off a single cell. Looks fine to me at first till i noticed a 3300mah batt was drained in like 10mins. Now, is that normal? Whats the normal run time with series motor? In parallel will be worse right? |
05-02-2005, 04:30 AM | #12 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Hi guys, I built my TXT as stock as possible as I want to experience the feel of it. But i've been flipping my truck when climbing stairs and I want to put an end to the flippings. I thought of reversing the motors direction and unsure how should i do it. My motors are connected in series. Do i reverse all the connection on the motor and leave the esc connection alone? That is to say, on the motor, to switch the negative to positive and the jumper that link the 2 motors in series also need to be swithed right? Thanx all. |
05-02-2005, 06:36 AM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Frayed ends of sanity
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i gd 600 is only like 12-13 bux at tower and money WELL spent I run a MM and the GD600 on my txt and i get somewhere around1H 15-20 MIN run time and the torque is crazy but i also run an E-maxx tranny and it spends most of the time in 1ST gear also to help fight the "twist" i run XTM x-factor threaded shocks on all 4 corners and run the right rear with a little more preload than the others ir seems to help some................ |
07-29-2005, 11:26 PM | #14 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Ok guys...i'm already sick of my stock looking TXT. I am going to mod it very soon. I'm planning to fix a GD600 with a silver can for a start. Can anyone highlight the steps on installing the GD600 to the gearbox please? Or what other stuffs need to be done to get the gd600 sitting nicely on the gear box. I plan to keep the stock battery tray for a while and the articulation mod will come later after i get the gd600 up and running. Anyone?
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07-29-2005, 11:49 PM | #15 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 1,288
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you will have to trim away some of the plastic from around the gd-600 pinion to make it fit flush up against the motor mount. then it mounts up just like a motor would. |
07-30-2005, 02:12 AM | #16 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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Thanx mike. I was worried it'll take more than dat cause I read somewhere that I'll need to drill some hole on the chassis to mount it right.
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07-30-2005, 06:28 AM | #17 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Frayed ends of sanity
Posts: 400
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i'd run a kyosho magnet mahem get a little more torqur and wheel speed with the GD
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07-30-2005, 11:44 AM | #18 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
Posts: 62
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motor will come later. i'm still trying to figure out how to fix the gd600 without hurting my beautiful chassis...
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07-30-2005, 12:42 PM | #19 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Rock Haven
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So can anyone post some pics of how to mount the gd600? Or a step by step guidelines perhaps? Thanx y'all.
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07-30-2005, 09:06 PM | #20 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
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Installed a GD-600 gear reduction | |
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