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![]() | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 30
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Put these on this past week: ![]() So, thanks to you guys for all the help! My TXT crawls pretty well these days. Some of the mods: Stainless steel sliders, geared it down, traxxas speed controller, locked diffs, HPI MT2 shocks with cut outs on the body mounts for increased travel, home made links (repositioned), TMaxx hub adaptors, narrowed Savage wheels, MGT cut tires with small foams, cut chassis and tranny, home made skid plate and tranny brace, XTM high torque servos... can't think of what else. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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well damn, i thought you had a neat little trick or something. not everyone has $100 to throw into an axle/driveshaft ![]() |
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![]() | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 30
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Hehehehe, well, I did offer to buy a bunch of em so that people could get them for $60 instead. I'm just really excited about them. They're so cool in a geeky, tech, car guy way. Can't believe how perfect they fit.
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![]() | #4 |
Pebble Pounder ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Quakertown PA
Posts: 167
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Where might I acquire a set of those drive shafts MacMan? Eric |
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![]() | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 30
| ![]() https://sdp-si.com/eStore/ On the left side of the page click on "universal joints", then "telescoping", then "metal spline type". The size you'd want is the first one in the list (the one with the .25" bore). Toyota's right, they're crazy expensive, but awefully nice. And it's certainly going to be the last set I need to buy for my rig. |
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
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I can't believe you paid $111 each. that's insane. with handling 40in. lbs. will the hold up to superlow gearing? they are really trick looking.
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![]() | #7 | |
Newbie Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 30
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Heck, people buy Clodbusters ($175) just for the axles and use them with an aftermarket chassis like the Gecko ($200) and still have to buy more parts. People spend $200 on RC stuff all day long (TXTkit $354), Kong tires ($100). Don't know why people have a hangup on spensive sliders. ![]() | |
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![]() | #8 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: 5280
Posts: 999
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Those shafts look sweet! I wish I had the funds available for something like that. But right now I am not breaking the stock TXT shafts... I'll just have to wait and see about the Maxx sliders. Where did you get your MAxx wheel adapters from? All I have seen are the RC4x4 ones. |
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
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![]() | #10 | |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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![]() | #11 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
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![]() I'm thinking about trying to use the tamiya u-joints and replace the the slider. I'll look into it. | |
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 245
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I saw someone using the white terra crusher driveshafts once, but I don't know any details. Anyone tried them? Do they require modification to fit? How do they hold up compared to the Traxxas sliders?
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![]() | #13 |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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Hey Macman... what are twisted sliders? I have never seen them before! ![]() ![]() I was thinking about this (as I was crawling) and I think it might be better having the drive shafts being the weekest link. I would much rather replace a $7 slider then a $200 axel. What kind of stress do you think you are putting on the rest of your drive train with your nice sliders? And what do you think is the part that is most prone to break now in your drive train? I understand your point of not having to replace sliders all the time, but I would be worried about replacing more expensive parts if I ran your drive shafts. Maybe you could chime in Dirk, since you seem to know alot of this wierd technical shit. |
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![]() | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Wollongong - Australia
Posts: 99
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Just thought I'd share, I use sliders in my truck but have modded them so I use 2 female ends and 1 male end to join them. I cut one of the female ends in half and the uni knuckle off the male one. Then I filled the centre of the male shaft with araldite, then I superglued it in the shorter female shaft. Mine are good for anywhere between 14 - 17" wheelbase but could be made to suit by cutting more or less off the smaller female end, and at 16" with MGT's and Kyosho Mega360's for the past few months they are showing no signs of fatigue. If they do twist with the araldite i'm going to drive a long screw down the centre of the male shaft and cut the end off to leave it a nice solid shaft. |
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I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
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araldite? what is it? Is it a grease? I like the idea of the mixed shaft.
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![]() | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: New Mexico
Posts: 13
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I have a set of the Traxxas half shafts long T-MAXX sliders and matching Diff output yokes. The end that attaches to the motor is too large to slip past the plastic near the motor shaft. Is everyone trimming the slider yoke to fit or am I missing something obvious. Or did I get the wrong upgrade parts for my TXT-1?
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![]() | #17 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Wollongong - Australia
Posts: 99
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Rocky, mine only JUST fit and it's wearing itself down pretty nicely, just make sure you screw your grub screw in all the way and she'll be sweet. | |
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![]() | #18 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 245
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Diggin' the new SCX10 II! ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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