solid link on IFS?

[pantablo]

I'm thinking about a way to eliminate the slop in the stock cc-01 steering.
What I'd like to do is eliminate all the connections between the servo horn and the knuckles. On a standard tlt based rig you have a chassis mounted servo (in my case) with a drag link to the knuckle, which is tied to the other knuckle with a tie rod. At least thats what I think they're called.

Assuming they are called that, can the knuckles of an IFS system be connected by a tie rod?

if I were to move the servo to the front of the cc-01 chassis and do a drag link to one knuckle, then tie that knuckle to the other with a tie rod would that negatively affect the IFS ability to articulate, given the limited articulation it has?

here is how I'm thinking of mounting it, but horizontal. The servo will fit between the wheel wells except the mounting tabs and where the wiring comes out of it.

[wildthing]

I think it might work... but you still have to cut/trim your front further to accomodate those new links

[Coop980]

If you can keep your tie rods parallel with your a arms then I think it should very well if there not parallel I think as the suspension flexes that your tires may want too steer themselves.

[pantablo]

while not using the solid link between the two knuckles this build did what I am thinking about but used one link on each side to a center mounted servo. Yes, additional cutting will have to be done but I'd rather do that than have all the additional link points adding slop.

thanks for the link!
Tamiya XC 1,9 scaler

[wildthing]

yup this indeed is a good option:

[pantablo]

going to try something a little different first:


made new horizontal bracket.


cut more of the front off and slotted the wheel wells. scalerlover, whatever you used to glue the front peice on smoked and smelled something toxic with the dremel cutoff wheel going through it!


slid the servo into the bracket and the assembly slid into the wheel well slots.



whats exposed inside the wheel well

[squatch71]

that is sweet, interested to see if when you bring the wheels up and down you don't get any unwanted steering.

very cool idea.

[pantablo]

with the passenger wheel turned to full lock either side, and compressed it pulls the drivers wheel in about 1/16", give or take. I can live with that if thats all there is in real world trail run testing.
moving the drivers wheel does nothing to the passenger wheel.

[pantablo]

servo ended up too high so I moved the servo down to the lower holes (2 lined up instead of all 4). however, it then hit the two screws securing the trans cover so I had to move the bracket up a bit but still got the servo lower.
Then had to trim away more of the chassis. the horn was hitting the wheel well on the drivers side at full lock and the drag link needed clearance to get to full lock on the passenger side, where its connected to the knuckle.















you can see how the L bracket is now lifted from the wheel well. this creates a pivot effect and at full lock the bracket moves a slight amount. spacers are needed along the bottom edge of the L bracket.

my bad, turns out its more like 1/8"-3/16" movement in the drivers wheel. not 1/16". still livable. better yet, no slop except from the knuckles.

video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bb0CGy0BaEk

[pantablo]

second video of how it works. full real world testing to follow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voHyMgtmtU0

[crunky]

wow man thats pretty damn sweet.
i have been cruising the nissan, and was wondering what can be done with the wishy washy front end.
one thing that keeps me from driving the thing is that the steering is so sloppy.
i'm not sure if i got the guts to try this yet.
great vid too.

[squatch71]

sweet, nother mod in the works...Have you done anything else to the front end to make the movement of the A arms more?? or are they stock.


very trick man....

[pantablo]

Originally Posted by squatch71

sweet, nother mod in the works...Have you done anything else to the front end to make the movement of the A arms more?? or are they stock.


very trick man....

they're clearanced for slightly longer travel and the chassis has a slight lift (you can see the washers on the front, about 1/4" lift).

[squatch71]

Originally Posted by pantablo

they're clearanced for slightly longer travel and the chassis has a slight lift (you can see the washers on the front, about 1/4" lift).

thats a good idea, I picked up a CC01 from a member here and just started messing with it. Will keep this one on the list of posts to check...

[toyofast]

TTT....

How is this steering modification working out? Any updates or changes that have been made? Like others, I've been biten by the CC-01 bug. My steering sucks and before I start cutting, I'd like to know if this has still been a worth while mod.

[pantablo]

see for yourself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UogTzNpy49A


I think it was totally worth it. steering is awesome. I did not notice any bumpsteer at all while driving it. Good, solid steering throw. Very direct steering.

[missions1]

ummmm thinking of doing this mod but unsure as i will be in mud and water do you ever go near mud and water with this and how does it perform ?
my servo will be waterproofed tho

[pantablo]

so long as your servo is waterproofed it should not make a difference in mud or water. it sits pretty low so you want to make sure its waterproofed, but in terms of how it operates it should be the same.

[missions1]

exelents thanks for the reply is the servo left exposed then or are you acle to put the flat panel back on the front

cheers paul

[pantablo]

Originally Posted by missions1

exelents thanks for the reply is the servo left exposed then or are you acle to put the flat panel back on the front

cheers paul

the flat panel of the front of the chassis is gone. you have to cut it all away.