Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > Scale Rigs Brand Specific Tech > Tamiya Scale Rock Crawlers > Tamiya XC/CC01
Loading

Notices

Thread: Start of a cc01 build....slight noob to it,need help...

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-25-2009, 07:46 PM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 224
Default Start of a cc01 build....slight noob to it,need help...

Ok, well, after buying an AX-10 to do the big crawling and have a slightly hilly trail truck, I also decided that I needed a CC-01 rig, so, after much looking I bought one....well,if the price seems to good to be true, well, you know the rest...
The owner said the cahssis had been "modified" by a past owner, hmmm,ok.... so I bought an unmodded chassis from ebay....just to be safe...heres the "rolling chassis" and the spare as they arrived.

you can see the rear links (which I would have done) but the hack shock mounts suck and simply can't be allowed. I am looking into RP's hangers similar the TLT's (I think?)




Couldn't figure why the diffes didn't wanna work. I'm not a huge fan of solid spools on vehicles that needs to be able to actualyl turn. I prefer grease so thick its ALMOST a spool but can give a little SLOWLY. I find this guy decided 2 tubes of hot glue would work for him....great, glad I already had a gear set coming.....here is the front after I dug the metal gears out...

am SURE the back is just as bad, next time, I simply use the propane torch over paper and melt them out of the back.
I have new bearings coming as some are missing sheilds etc. The steering isnt great but, I am working on a beter system without destrying the nose of the new chassis... I'm determined. The front was missing kingpins. Nice. One upright was shattered on a hole and glued. Touche. The upright or hubs are butched like someone with a soldering iron was using it for art class. New ones on order (in black I might add) sadly they are coming from Japan. I have a set of TA02 universals but I swear they are stepped just like the CC-01 stub axles,2 sixze bearings.... I swore that the ta02 used identical sized 5x11's. Am so confused.Anyway. Lotsa parts coming in and I think it woudl have been cheaper to just buy a new kit from RPP. Still might rebuild this one and find a new one,who knows!
So Besides the steering and the "welded diffs", what should I be looking into for a decent scale trail truck? I'm determined to buy one of the orange (or silver) land rovers from target, and a decent set of wheels and tires.... are the factory wheels 1.9's? how tall should I draw the line for them? What about a gear reduction unit? The HPI Wheelie king a good choice? if not, what is? Any suggestions?

Last edited by 4drmopar; 07-25-2009 at 09:34 PM.
4drmopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 07-25-2009, 10:58 PM   #2
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Clymer, NY
Posts: 394
Default

I run two CC-01's, one has a 65t and the other a 75t and they are both perfect, lots of torque and plenty of wheel speed. I will not run a GRU for the simple fact that I do not have the room to relocate the battery and do not want my chassis hacked up. The 75t or the 65y has the best of both worlds and I run one with a Losi LMC ESC with drag brake and it works excellent. The other is running on a Tekin Rebel 2 and I have the option of a 3s lipo if I really want it to motor down the trail and tear shit up.

I love having the front diff locked and I have no idea why everyone insists on using JB or glue to do it and ruin the diffs. The parts are in the kit to lock them and reverse them to open without any mods. I cover it in this topic, as well as several simple do it yourself mods.
Blackfoots CC01 Project with Some simple DIY Mods

I would relocate the mounting points on the lower links to the side of the molded in frame rails by drilling a hole on each side(also covered in the above link) They will hang up on everything the way they are now. Do the front C Hum mods as seen in the above link as well. Also remove the useless brick wall on the front of the chassis tub. It will dramaticly increase your approach angle.

It all depends on what size tires you wanna run, if you want to butcher up fender wells and ruin the look of the body and what you run on for terrain. I run on mostly dirt and mud, there is very little natural rock around here, so I can even get away with F350 tires and still be able to go about anywhere. I have mounted up almost all the 1.9 tires that RC4WD has out except the Grabbers and the 3 new releases. I prefer the SDI Trail Docs on my Defender build for looks and performance and the Outcroppers on my Bruder MAN for their military looks and brutal performance. Some like to cut up tires to make 1.5 and 1.7 sized tires, but I like the belly clearance from a minimum of the 3.75 size and can even get away with the 4.25 diameter of the Rock Stompers on either of my trucks. Myself, I dont like the looks or lack of clearance of small home brewed 1.5 tires and will NEVER take scissors to a $50 set of new tires, to each their own.

Snoop around on all the threads in this section, there is alot of great info to be found.
blackfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2009, 06:12 AM   #3
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 224
Default

THAT has got to be one of the most concise posts I've had the priviledge to read in a while...thank you! Could you send me a few better pics of the rear lower links? I'm definitly interested but before I go order a buncha parts without seeing, I'd llike a few better angle pics to see what I'm fabbing up
Thanks inadvance....





It's SOOO niceot not have to not have to TOTALLY figure this out alone
4drmopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2009, 07:29 AM   #4
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Clymer, NY
Posts: 394
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4drmopar View Post
THAT has got to be one of the most concise posts I've had the priviledge to read in a while...thank you! Could you send me a few better pics of the rear lower links? I'm definitly interested but before I go order a buncha parts without seeing, I'd llike a few better angle pics to see what I'm fabbing up
Thanks inadvance....





It's SOOO niceot not have to not have to TOTALLY figure this out alone
LOL. thanks.

This is what I have pics of for now and some info on how I did it. I will have to get the time to take some more for you later today.

What I did is a very simple and straight foward mod. This is straight foward if you are running the long wheelbase, short WB will need different Axial upper links or make or buy different ones.

What you need is
2 lower Axial links
2 upper Axial links
2 bicycle chain 1/2 links
2 TLT upper offset susp and shock mounts
Screws, Lock nuts, washers
2 Traxxas Ball ends or Brass bushings for the shock ends
Drill
1 or 2 little helpers and hams for the camera.

I started by taking the rear susp and axle right off the chassis. Unbolt the susp pieces and mock bolt the TLT mounts to the axle where the original upper link mounted using the front hole on the plate. Align it straight front to rear and tighten the bolt and nut. Then slowly drill a small pilot hole in the lower axle case. Repeat for other side. Take the axle apart and find 2 short screws and nuts from your spare bin. Drill the hole to the correct size for the screw and bolt the mount plate in place, using the screwhead on the inside of the axle tube and the nut on the outside at the plate. Reassemble the axle case and make sure it spins free without rubing the screw head on the inner axles.

Remove the front screw that you had holding the mount in place to drill the rear pilot hole and install the Axial upper link in place and bolt it all together. Bolt the lower links to the front upper link mounting point on the chassis.

Then mount the lower link to the front mounting hole, and move the front of the link to the outside of the molded in frame rails on the chassis, drill a small pilot hole and then drill to the correct size for the bolt. Slide the bolt into the link, use a washer between the link and chassis then another washer on the inside and use a lock nut. Repeat on other side. If you have done this correctly, the new holes should be in the same area as the front mounting holes in the chassis, just on the outside of the frame now, out of the way and allow it to glide over the rocks and stuff.

Next is the shocks. Now you will see that the shocks will not bolt to the 2 eyelets at the back of the TLT mounts, so thats where the Bicycle 1/2 links come into play. Bolt the 1/2 links into the eyelets and tighten them up real good, then use a Traxxas Ball end on the shock or use a Brass bushing and bolt the shock back up. The cool thing about the 1/2 links is they can be used as a lift kit as well, just loosen them up and rotate them so the shock mounts higher or lower it to taste, just crank them tight and they will not move on you.






Or (in you need to keep the short WB of the Wrangler or Pajero) you can do the same basic thing using the stock Axial upper links as the lowers, they mount in the same place on the axle. What I did for shock mounts is drilled a hole in the axle case and used a Tamiya long servo mount as the lower shock mounts. Has held up great so far. I moved the shocks upper mounting points as far to the rear of the chassis as possible, helped alot with the articulation on this truck.

Last edited by blackfoot; 07-26-2009 at 07:32 AM.
blackfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2009, 08:17 PM   #5
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 224
Default

Ok,so, lets say I need to stretch teh rear somewhere inbetween the 2 wheelbases to match a body.... entending links is no big deal,but what about the driveshaft?? suggestions?
4drmopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2009, 08:30 PM   #6
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Clymer, NY
Posts: 394
Default

Stampede drives, like the top 2 pics. It took me 2 shaft sets to make the one in those pics.
blackfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2009, 12:46 AM   #7
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: santa monica
Posts: 3,687
Default

I will disagree with Blackfoot and provide a different experience regarding the reduction unit. My experience with 55t and 65t motors alone in these cc-01's is that they are still too fast, making them more difficult to control at super slow speeds when trying to crawl over obstacles. Now, this will differ depending on what type of terrain you drive. I run mostly on dry/wet rock. I installed rc4wd's 4:1 gear reduction unit in my 2 cc-01's and am very happy with them.

If you check out the last 10 seconds of my video you can see what a 55t motor and 4:1 gear reduction at full speed looks like.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UogTzNpy49A

Also, on the tires...
I am one of those guys that cuts tires. There isnt a single rig of my 5 rigs that runs standard 1.9 wheels/tires. All my rigs run 1.7 or 1.5 wheels, or run 1.9 wheels with reduced tires (hybrid tires). I have yet to encounter an issue with ground clearance on any of these. if you think about it, going the full extreme of 1.9 to 1.5 you lose only 0.4 overall height, meaning you lose 0.2" of overall clearance, or about 3/16". That little bit you can compensate for by simply placing your tires well as you drive.
Like I said, its NEVER been an issue.
Also, my hybrid tires dont end up any shorter than the stock BFG tires (my goal), so theres no loss of clearance there.

Cutting tires is not for everyone. Takes practice.

Here are a couple videos of my cc-01's. they basically have only been modified with the 4:1 reduction and hybrid tires.

mine is the green LR3 cc-01 in this video, on hybrid mud thrashers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVvERTv2VvQ
and again in this one
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF7f_LaTenE

silver rover sport cc-01 on hybrid dirt grabbers (has crappy esc in it though)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjTSkBoZxYQ


trail docs are also one of my favorite tires but have grown to like the more scale appearance and (at least) equal performance from the new rc4wd tires such as the mud thrashers and dirt grabbers.
pantablo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2009, 07:19 AM   #8
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 224
Default

Well, cut tires... aren't my bag... in fact I have a set im trying to get rid of. They look great,but, I know they're cut, and it bothers me....
4drmopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2009, 11:12 AM   #9
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: santa monica
Posts: 3,687
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pantablo View Post
Cutting tires is not for everyone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4drmopar View Post
Well, cut tires... aren't my bag...
I hear ya.


are you really in Bel Air? I'm thinking west los angeles area. If you are, we're neighbors...
pantablo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2009, 08:44 PM   #10
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Posts: 224
Default

Lol, wrong coast my man.... I THINK we are actually the original Bel Air out here.... Maryland county seat of Harford County etc....

Yeah,cut tires, to ME, just look hack. Don't get me wrong, I have seen some WILD impressive jobs, but,it isn't my thing... I'd rather spend time on a silky smooth suspension and detailed interior etc...
4drmopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:37 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com