CC-01/XC owners.... Please read.

[RCtweakR]

Originally Posted by SMUDGEBUG

I had 2 rigs do the same I found a washer under the screw that goes in the thru rod fixed it, im sure of the reasons it does it but I know it fixed the problems

I have the same problem as well.
Would you mind show us how you fixed the problem, pictures would help a lot,
thanks.

[Cortina79]

Originally Posted by FuriousCal

Same here. Just intstalled my kit yesterday and the tires have about a 1/4"+ of play. What did I do wrong?

Its not necessarily the GPM kit that has the slop in it, even from new the ball cups will have some play in them(times that by 6 ball cups & the movement will be magnified), also the stock servo saver ain't much chop so replace with a hi torque one. Another thing to look at is the servo, if its used & abused that won't help either.

[RCtweakR]

Even I put the GPM kit on a brand new chassis, and brand new traxxas 2075 servo, it still has a little movement in the steering.

[JLF]

I went to the GPM website and found that I couldnt buy direct, unless I contact them first. Is this correct?

EDIT: I reread the thread and understand that I need to contact them directly.

Thanks.

[rustykaos]

Originally Posted by Cortina79

Its not necessarily the GPM kit that has the slop in it, even from new the ball cups will have some play in them(times that by 6 ball cups & the movement will be magnified), also the stock servo saver ain't much chop so replace with a hi torque one. Another thing to look at is the servo, if its used & abused that won't help either.

After having the kit in there for a week I noticed it is better than stock but is still quite sloppy. Tried an old trick cutting some fuel line to put under the ball cup and works a charm. It only has to be 1mm-2mm thick and still allows full movement only with less slop.

[Digger]

Today I finally got around to installing the GPM Steering kit in my Hummer Hx CC01. I got it together with the included phillips-head screws and tightened it as much as I could without stripping the screw heads. Afterwards I couldn't get the truck trimmed straight and it wouldn't hold a straight line for anything. Then while tinkering with the steering settings on my radio, I clipped the pipe along the side of the track and lost almost all steering. I picked it up and went back to the pits to discover that the screw in the bottom of the long through-rod had backed off. I thought this was rather strange considering the amount of force I used when assembling it the first time.

I replaced that screw with a 3x12mm cap head and used my 2.5mm hex driver to really tighten it down. I was able to put much more force into it with the hex driver than I could ever think of with the phillips screwdriver. After putting the front of the truck back together, I found that almost all excess slop was now gone, the truck tracks straight now and I have increased usable steering throw so that the truck can circle in 6-8 feet of space. Not bad for front and rear locked diffs.

The kit is definately worth the $13 price, but do yourself a favor and pick up the extra hex screws to replace the phillips head hardware. At the very least get the 3x12mm hex screw for the bottom of the through rod so you can get it tight enough.

[RCtweakR]

Thank you guys for the tricks.

[RCtweakR]

Originally Posted by Digger

Today I finally got around to installing the GPM Steering kit in my Hummer Hx CC01. I got it together with the included phillips-head screws and tightened it as much as I could without stripping the screw heads. Afterwards I couldn't get the truck trimmed straight and it wouldn't hold a straight line for anything. Then while tinkering with the steering settings on my radio, I clipped the pipe along the side of the track and lost almost all steering. I picked it up and went back to the pits to discover that the screw in the bottom of the long through-rod had backed off. I thought this was rather strange considering the amount of force I used when assembling it the first time.

I replaced that screw with a 3x12mm cap head and used my 2.5mm hex driver to really tighten it down. I was able to put much more force into it with the hex driver than I could ever think of with the phillips screwdriver. After putting the front of the truck back together, I found that almost all excess slop was now gone, the truck tracks straight now and I have increased usable steering throw so that the truck can circle in 6-8 feet of space. Not bad for front and rear locked diffs.

The kit is definately worth the $13 price, but do yourself a favor and pick up the extra hex screws to replace the phillips head hardware. At the very least get the 3x12mm hex screw for the bottom of the through rod so you can get it tight enough.

I did it as you suggested, change the screw to cap heads, re-tighten it with
thread locker, tighten it up. It still show some slop.

[RABIDFOX]

Did you check to see if the keyed part at the bottom was rounded off?

[Digger]

Originally Posted by RCtweakR

I did it as you suggested, change the screw to cap heads, re-tighten it with
thread locker, tighten it up. It still show some slop.

Are you sure the slop is coming from the steering kit and not the links/rod ends or C-hub pivots? How are your hub bearings? How much play do your stub axles have in the hub?

[rhowe]

any one try the new gear set yet from gpm. wonder if that will fix my gears form slipping?

[daign]

word on this thread!

[Absurd]

I decided to race my minicooper drifter vs a vaterra kemora and noticed that the rear shocks are almost the same exact size as my drifter which happens to be the same size as the socks on the cc01 and the springs come in 3 sets soft med hard and the stocks being adjustable and able to hold oil. also the front shocks for the kemora are just slightly smaller which would be good for people who want the springs to be a 50/50 droop with a cc01.