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Thread: Finally finished my G-Wagon!

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Old 02-12-2010, 03:42 AM   #1
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Default G-Wagon!

I finally finished my cc-01 g-wagon. This was my first kit and I love it! This nikko g-wagon body fits so perfectly, its like it was made for this kit. I have had a redcat rs10 and an axial ax10... but this is by far my favorite rig!

Here are the specs:
1. hummer wheels with stock tires
2. losi mrc esc
3. hi-tech 645mg
4.stock silver can
5. venom 7.2 3000mah


Soon to come:

1. losi mrc tires
2. roof rack
3 scale accessories
4. gpm steering kit
5. integy 65t


I took it for its first test run today and the drive shaft came off twice. I made sure the screws where tight, so I don't know what the problem is. Also my mrc esc acted funny on my second charge. It would run for about 5 min. and then stop and start blinking red and green for a couple of Min's. and then would work again. Has anyone else experienced this problem with this esc?

Anyway...onto the pics! (alot of pics)

Enjoy!
































Last edited by landrover4wd; 03-29-2010 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:26 AM   #2
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About the driveshaft, do you mean the tiny grub screw came loose on the center shaft and it was slipping or came out of the female end? That happened to me and I just tightened the grub screw way down and it never happened again. Of course the smart thing to do would be to just put a dab of superglue on the female threads and then tighten the screw in. That will keep it from ever coming out on its own.

Possibly your ESC is going into failsafe mode due to overheating? are you running at low speeds? If so that builds up alot of heat due to inefficiencies of the electronics at low speeds.

Oh yeah, looks good!
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Old 02-12-2010, 11:20 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by JoeThePro View Post
About the driveshaft, do you mean the tiny grub screw came loose on the center shaft and it was slipping or came out of the female end? That happened to me and I just tightened the grub screw way down and it never happened again. Of course the smart thing to do would be to just put a dab of superglue on the female threads and then tighten the screw in. That will keep it from ever coming out on its own.

Possibly your ESC is going into failsafe mode due to overheating? are you running at low speeds? If so that builds up alot of heat due to inefficiencies of the electronics at low speeds.

Oh yeah, looks good!


I tightened the grub screw down really hard, but it still popped off. Maybe I'll try loctight. I did notice when my esc was acting funny, it was extremely hot. Is there any way of keeping it cooler? Also which drafts from traxxas are compatible? thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:29 PM   #4
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I tightened the grub screw down really hard, but it still popped off. Maybe I'll try loctight. I did notice when my esc was acting funny, it was extremely hot. Is there any way of keeping it cooler? Also which drafts from traxxas are compatible? thanks
Not sure about which driveshafts, but loctite or superglue WILL work, no worries. The only way to keep the ESC cooler is to mount a fan to it. Something like a 40mm fan will work just fine. You can wire it into the ESC power wires, then tape it to the esc or screw it to the heatsink (screws sometimes fit perfectly between heatsink fins). I can link you to another forum where I showed how I had done it on an e-savage if you like.
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:34 PM   #5
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Not sure about which driveshafts, but loctite or superglue WILL work, no worries. The only way to keep the ESC cooler is to mount a fan to it. Something like a 40mm fan will work just fine. You can wire it into the ESC power wires, then tape it to the esc or screw it to the heatsink (screws sometimes fit perfectly between heatsink fins). I can link you to another forum where I showed how I had done it on an e-savage if you like.

Sure that would be great, send over the link. thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:35 PM   #6
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What are the BEC specs on the MRC esc? You might benefit from an external BEC, like the one from Castle Creations.
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Old 02-12-2010, 01:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
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What are the BEC specs on the MRC esc? You might benefit from an external BEC, like the one from Castle Creations.
X2 on schablinski advice, i have an mrc and when the stock mini servo blew i put a standard size 645mg servo, but then added a castle bec almost inmediatly as the esc began acting weird due to overheating because of the drain of the servo, i can only imagine the extra strain on your esc with a standard servo and added weight of the cc-01 and plastic body.

Looks great BTW!
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:04 PM   #8
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I gonna try and get cc bec in a trade, but until I get one should I not drive it, for the possability of the esc burning out? Also does anyone know if I can use the stock rear diff locker to lock the front diff? I was thinking of buying the gear set parts: http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-cc0...h=595_744_1426 to lock the front diff. Thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:35 PM   #9
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About the ESC, try to get the specs as far as motors from Losi. If the ESC is designed for the 380 motor and nothing bigger you will have overheating issues with the 540 silver can. I had the same problem with the Duratrax ESC designed for the Cliff Climber. It was meant to run 2 380 size motors and when I tried to run 2 390 sized motors it would overheat and shut down. I have read elsewhere that people run them with high turn motors such as 55T and 65T and don't have issues so you could try that. I still think that you are just trying to run to "hot" of a motor for the ESC. I run a full size servo in my Losi MRC with the stock ESC and have no issues so I think the BEC will not fix what you have going on.
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:13 PM   #10
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I cant find the thread about wiring a fan... but its SUPER simple. Take the red power wire from your esc and remove either the heatsrink (if there is any) or a small section of the wire insulation and then solder the red wire from the fan to the red wire of the ESC. Do the same for the black wires then put some electrical tape around the connection, or heat shrink. You can also just wrap the fan lead around the ESC lead and tape it, that should hold if you do it right. Then just either screw the fan into the heatsink fins, or make a custom mount, or just tape it along the edges to the esc. It will solve all your heat issues ASAP.
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Old 02-13-2010, 08:45 PM   #11
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does anyone know if i can lock the front diff with the stock rear diff locker? thanks
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:44 PM   #12
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does anyone know if i can lock the front diff with the stock rear diff locker? thanks
Yes you can, or you could drop an extra spider gear in between two of the ones already in the front diff. If you don't have an extra, just pull one off the "Y" shaft and drop that one in between the other two.
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Old 02-14-2010, 01:33 AM   #13
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Yes you can, or you could drop an extra spider gear in between two of the ones already in the front diff. If you don't have an extra, just pull one off the "Y" shaft and drop that one in between the other two.

Thanks man, exact answer I was looking for!
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:59 AM   #14
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Update:
1. MRC tires
2. 65t integy
3. Sawed off the front brick. (still need to make front skid)



Pics:





























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Old 03-02-2010, 02:40 PM   #15
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Some pics actually wheeling!
































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Old 03-02-2010, 02:43 PM   #16
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looks good murdered out
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:26 AM   #17
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Update:

1. installed gpm steering kit
2. made front skid plate
3. locked front diff

Soon to be installed is gpm's rear shock mounts!

Crawls alot better with that front diff locked!

Pics:



















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Old 03-23-2010, 02:46 PM   #18
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Check out what the mail man brought me today! I'm gonna install it later.





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Old 03-29-2010, 02:32 AM   #19
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I finally got some time to install the rear shock mounts. It does give it some good lift in the rear. I was wondering if anyone knew if the lower links should bolt on to the end of the mount? It seems they wont reach to the hole. There are two extra screws and nuts in the kit that I don't know what they go to? On gpm's website it looks like the end of the lower links just hangs there with no screw bolted on to the mount? http://gpmracing.com.hk/catalog/prod...oducts_id=5842

Here's some pics:

I dont know where these two extra screws and nuts go? Anyone have any ideas?




















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