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Thread: Tips and Tricks for CC01 Owners

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Old 06-05-2010, 07:05 PM   #1
LR3
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Default Tips and Tricks for CC01 Owners

Tips for driving and owning a Tamiya CC01.


1. Becoming acquainted with your CC01:
The CC01 chassis is also referred to as the XC chassis. Any aftermarket parts for XC are 100% compatible with your CC01. The CC01 is one of the most basic scale rigs on the market. It consist of a bathtub styled chassis with a front independent suspension, center differential, shaft driven four wheel drive, and an rear strait axle with and optional locking differential hooked up to a rear four link suspension. There are a few problem areas on the CC01. The main problem owners of the CC01 face is the protrusion on the front of the chassis commonly known as the 'brick'. This protrusion gets in the way of climbing vertical surfaces. Another problematic area on the CC01 is the rear four link setup. The way that it is designed, the links hang down and have a tendency to get hung up when crawling over obstacles making the task frustrating and tedious. Another problem commonly expressed by owners of the CC01 is the lack of steering travel . We will address these problems later.

2. Optimizing your CC01's performance:
There is no limit to the upgrades you can do to a CC01 chassis. I personally have seen people do everything from a simple tire swap to cutting the chassis in half and making an extended wheelbase. Today however, I am going to tell you about simple and cheap modifications that any first time rig owner can do. Before you do anything else to your CC01, you need to invest in a good set of tires. RC4WD's 1.9 and 1.55 Dirt Grabbers and Mud Thrashers are fantastic tires for a stock CC01 rig. Losi also makes a series of 'mini' 1.9 tires that work nicely. I am currently running Losi 1.9 Rock Bashers. DO NOT buy any wheels now and you will see why later. Also never forget to always glue the tires to the rims using a tire glue. The next upgrade you do should cost nothing. You will need to lock the front and rear differentials. There are steps on how to lock the rear diff in the building instructions but there aren't any instructions on locking the front. To lock the front simply remove one of the spider gears from the front and just like that you have a locked front diff. Many people purchase the GPM steering upgrade kit for the CC01, but I personally have found that that a strong servo takes care of that problem.

3. Removing the front brick and fixing the four link:
If you own a Tamiya Hard Bodied CC01 DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT BRICK. This includes the CC01 Pajero, CR-V, Humvee, and Wrangler. If you own a Tamiya Lexan Bodied CC01 then you can remove the front brick. This includes the CC01 Cayenne, Touareg, Uni-Mog, and FJ40. To remove the front brick you need a saw, epoxy, and about thirty minutes to an hour of your time. There are many different approaches you can take to remove the front brick, but I simply reduced it in size somewhat and built a release for water at the bottom. To remove the front brick, simply cut the brick off, trim it, and epoxy the trimmed section back on. The rear four link is more complicated and involves purchasing Axial aftermarket parts and as this is to help people on a budget create a fun and capable rig, I would not worry about the four link right now.

4. Driving over vertical surfaces:
While wheeling your rig, you may find yourself in a position where you will need to advance over a small to medium sized vertical incline. There are two ways to do this. There is the straight on approach, and the angled approach.
Straight on - begin by using half throttle to get the front wheels on top of the obstacle you are attempting to climb over. As soon as you get the front wheels on the top of the ledge, use full throttle to charge over the incline. The possible risks for this maneuver include possible damage to the undercarriage mainly to the driveshaft and rear four link.

Angled - for this maneuver, you will need to be at an angle when approaching the obstacle. There are multiple steps in this process.


Step 1: crawl the front left/right wheel onto the top of the ledge.

Step 2: turn left/right and crawl the remaining front wheels onto the ledge.

Step 3: using about half throttle, crawl the rear left/right wheel onto the ledge.

Step 4: turn left/right and crawl the remaining rear wheel onto the ledge while striating up your rig.

Risks for this maneuver include possible rollover.

5. Crossing a water crossing:
Sometimes you will find yourself needing to cross a creek of stream while out wheeling. There are multiple steps to execute this maneuver.

Step 1: examine the crossing. Be sure to check the depth and current. Try and check for spots where you can see the bottom clearly as these are signs of a shallow part of the crossing.

Step 2: position your rig so that the front wheels are aligned with the path that you intend to take and so that you can easily reverse out of trouble if you need to.

Step 3: using half throttle, slowly set the front wheels into the water. If the water comes over halfway up the hood with only the front wheels in, do not cross there as it will be too deep.

Step 4: again using half throttle, slowly set the rear wheels into the water.

Step 5: using half throttle again, slowly make your way across the water crossing. Try to keep in a straight line as you do not know the depth of the water on either side of you. If at any time you think the water is getting too deep, reverse out of it.

Step 6: when you reach the other side of the crossing, use the straight on method of wall climbing to get beck up.
Possible risks for a water crossing include sinking, capsizing, being swept away with the current, shorting out the electronics, and rusting of metal parts.

6. Driving through mud:
Depending on the thickness of the mud, there are several ways you can do this. For thin and watery mud, simply drive through this as if it were a water crossing but use a stick to check the depth. For thick mud, it is easy to get stuck even if you have both diffs locked. If you find yourself stuck, follow these steps.

Step 1: try the rocking method. Go forward and reverse in full throttle until the momentum has build up enough to get you out. If that does not work, follow these next steps.

Step 2: give it enough gas to clear some mud out. This will make it easier for the next steps.

Step 3: grab four rocks. Place one rock in front of each wheel and one behind each front wheel.

Step 4: reverse using the rocks as gripping points.

Step 5: keep placing the rocks in the same formation until you have reversed out of where you were stuck and drive around it.

7. Driving over rocks:
Rocks are the most common terrain you will encounter. There are two different types of rocks, rounded and jagged. For a CC01 Chassis, I would try to stay away from the jagged. The way to advance over rocks all depends on how the rocks are played out and where you can point the wheels and get grip. There are no steps to driving over rocks and only tips.

Tip 1: DO NOT USE FULL THROTTLE. Crawl over the rocks slowly and carefully. This will minimize damage.

Tip 2: Wet rocks are much slicker then dry. You may have a hard time getting grip on wet rock.

Tip 2: It is easier to go downhill on rocks as opposed to uphill. Going uphill, you have gravity working against you as opposed to for you.

I hope this has been helpful to CC01 owners.
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:15 PM   #2
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Nice, but didn't you forgot to mention ball-bearings...
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:05 PM   #3
LR3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornholio View Post
Nice, but didn't you forgot to mention ball-bearings...
I didn't know there was a problem with the ball bearings
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:43 PM   #4
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most units come with the sloppy bushings and if you scope around there are a few places you can pick up a bearing set cheap.

i got mine for under 10 bucks.

plus you forgot to mention the popular esc, motor, and GRU setups.
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:38 PM   #5
LR3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunky View Post
most units come with the sloppy bushings and if you scope around there are a few places you can pick up a bearing set cheap.

i got mine for under 10 bucks.

plus you forgot to mention the popular esc, motor, and GRU setups.
I am not sure what the GRU is....I am very new to this hobby and was sharing what I had learned to share with people who may be in the same situation as me. What are the popular setups?
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:48 PM   #6
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well it depends who you talk to and how you drive your rig.

i use my cc-01 as a trail companion when i am hiking with my wife. for me the perfect setup is an ESC with a drag break and the 55T motor.

others have said that the GRU, or gear reduction unit is the only way to fly.
i have not had the chance to wheel one with a gru installed, but i would be curious to know the difference myself.

i guess it would be the difference between driving my Xterra in 4 hi down the trail as opposed to driving in 4 low.
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Old 06-28-2010, 12:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunky View Post
well it depends who you talk to and how you drive your rig.

i use my cc-01 as a trail companion when i am hiking with my wife. for me the perfect setup is an ESC with a drag break and the 55T motor.

others have said that the GRU, or gear reduction unit is the only way to fly.
i have not had the chance to wheel one with a gru installed, but i would be curious to know the difference myself.

i guess it would be the difference between driving my Xterra in 4 hi down the trail as opposed to driving in 4 low.
.


I actually read a write up in RC rock crawler magazine that a 55T in a CC01was still too fast for scale.
On a later issue they ended up using a 70T Integy in another CC01 build (they were showcasing Jeeps including the CC01, Hpi CK, and Timberwolf chassis with a HPI body??? can't remember)

I'm still waiting for my CC01 Unimog to arrive from RcMart.com and I bought with it a set of Yeah Racing bearings for $11.50.
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