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06-25-2010, 02:56 PM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: PHX Metro
Posts: 67
| My First CC01 (and first RC)
I’m a new CC01 owner. I bought the FJ40 kit and I’m having a blast assembling it. I haven’t even finished yet but I’m already eyeing the GPM aluminum parts. =) My goal is a super-detailed scale rig that represents my dream FJ40 (I would love to buy and restore a 1:1 FJ someday). I noticed on the site a guy named “Fracture” is doing a much more true-to-scale frame and plastic bodied FJ40 through RC4WD. I may end up going that route depending on price. I’d much rather work with the plastic (ABS I’m assuming) than this lexan crap. I’m a model railroader dabbling in the RC world and the lexan just baffles me (I know it’s a weight issue, but still). If I pursue the RC4WD FJ then I’ll convert the CC01 to a super-detailed scale model of my 1:1 FJ Cruiser. In any case, I have some questions based on my reading around.
Okay, so that’s quite a few questions. Would appreciate any input on one, some, or all of these questions. I've done a lot of searching and reading before posting, so hopefully I haven't missed too many obvious things. Thanks for helping an RC Crawler noob. Regards, Joel |
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06-25-2010, 05:54 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: MS Gulf Coast
Posts: 1,949
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First off you've picked a cool project to start with! Tamiya makes some great stuff and stock this kit is more of a trail rig, meaning it's not a real capable rock crawler out of the box. With a few strategic mods it can become a very capable rock crawler. The GPM parts are really nice. I just recently upgraded my whole front end with their parts and am very pleased. Here's a link to my build BGGruff's Pajero To answer your questions: 1. Yes it is Tamiya, it is most likely one of the blues in this section http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...d=61700&page=1 2. Yes polycarbonate for lexan bodies. 3. Yes paint on the inside. You can paint on the outside and paint a rust color on the inside so when it scapes the outside of the body it exposes what looks like scale rust. 4. Stock speed controller is ok if you can't afford to get a new one right now but you will want to upgrade to a 55T motor or higher to get some better low end torque and better crawler control. I currently run a 65T with the 20T pinion but will soon swap in the 16T to slow it down a little more. I'm using a Tekin BR1 esc. 5. Yes lock the front and rear if you plan on more challenging trails. 6. There are ways to make a funstional scale antennae but I'd just hide it under the body wrapped around a piece of lexan and secured to the chassis. I'll find a link to show how that is done. 7. Hitec 645 or 5645 are good servos. I'm running a Traxxas 2075 b/c it's h2oproof, digital and has a 125 oz/in torque. 8. YEs the Tx/Rx will be together most of the time. Most of the time the pair should be the same brand so that they operate off the same channel. Depending on whether or not you get AM or FM or digital and how many channels you need you can get some decent radios for reasonable prices. Corey at RPP is a great guy to deal with and has a good selection. Spektrum is a good choice b/c it's digital. Here's a link to Tower and all the Traxxas stuff they have. TQ3 is AM and is very cheap but works well. They also make digital now. http://www.rpphobby.com/category_s/32.htm http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...VSEARCH=RADIOS You're on the right track. Keep searching and reading this forum is a wealth of knowledge. I've just recently got back into my CC01 and am enjoying it. I currently have a few different types of scalers and for what it is the CC01 is a pretty cool rig. Enjoy! Last edited by BGGruff; 06-25-2010 at 05:58 PM. |
06-26-2010, 09:05 AM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia
Posts: 239
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^ all good advice, I have nothing to add except dont worry too much about the body being lexan, if you put the time in you can get the body look pretty real. |
06-26-2010, 11:52 PM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: PHX Metro
Posts: 67
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Thanks for the answers and encouragement guys. I'll be sure to post some photos as I go. Positronic, I love your FJ, it looks great. That's on an Axial chassis right? A few questions on your detailing.
Thanks, Joel |
06-27-2010, 03:09 AM | #5 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Australia
Posts: 239
| Quote:
roof rack is just drilled and bolt as per instructions. with more holes drilled for the light loom to go through. to mount the tyre directly to the body you would need to build some sort of supports since I'd be worried about the lexan. Lots of after market bumpers for the FJ have the tyre carrier on them if I recall correctly. The wheels are plastic landies from ebay, other tip is you can lightly sand the outside of the lexan to make it look more realistic. wish I'd known that before I did mine. | |
06-27-2010, 11:19 PM | #6 | ||||||
Rock Stacker Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: PHX Metro
Posts: 67
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Thanks for your thorough response. It's been very helpful. | ||||||
06-29-2010, 06:19 PM | #7 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: MS Gulf Coast
Posts: 1,949
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The help is no problem. Going with the Hitec Tx/Rx is just fine. I started out using cheap Futaba stuff and it worked just fine. The 3003 servo is really weak, if you can find a cheap metal gear servo with higher torque at your LHS then try to get it. There are actually a shit load of different brands of servos that probably work just as good as Hitec and cheaper. They're just the most common. Towerpro, Orion, Hobbico even Futaba makes some nice MG high torque servos for fairly cheap. No doubt when you get to th US and have access to everything RC you're wallet will feel it. RC Crawling is very addictive and extremely fun! Also remember to support the vendors here. I think I've bought something from each one and some a lot more.
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