|
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
08-09-2010, 01:29 PM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Unimog CC-01 in the box build
So at the beginning of July the ever so wonderful RCMart.com people delivered my Unimog in quick time with $0 taxes and duty fees. Awesome. I was elated to receive this box full of goodies. I just recently started putting in an hour here and an hour there. So here goes! Starting with the box and it's contents. There are lots of small parts. Parts are Tamiya quality so you know things are all good or most of it anyways. Nice box! Now jumping ahead...as per the manual I attached the pinion to my Tekin 55T, assembled the front diff (locked it by taking one of the 3 spider gears and jamming it between the other 2 gears, is reversable), assembled the spur gear and attached them to the chassis using Yeah Racing bearings instead of the plastic bushings included in the kit. Bearings is probably the first upgrade anyone should do. You got longer run times and smoother performance. Now with protective cover on gears Last edited by Evandiego; 05-09-2018 at 09:13 AM. |
Sponsored Links | |
08-09-2010, 01:32 PM | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| So guys...last week I got my tires from a forum member on rcccrawler.com. Brand new Rock Creepers that only cost me $32 shipped. A pair of these cost $24.99 US. Killer deals. They are 3.8" tall, soft, and aggressive. Great for trailing and mild crawling. The included tires in the CC-01 kit is relatively hard and has no foams...they're semi-pneumatic. The stock tires still look cool though. The rims that come with the kit look awesome but they're not beadlocks. They are stock Hummer rims. Mated to the Rock Creepers they'll add a bit more clearance to the Mog with enough space for full articulation. Here are some pics. Looks badass! |
08-09-2010, 01:34 PM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Okay enough oogling the sweet ass tires I got. So now it calls for: 1. Assembly of drive gear and propeller shaft. The gear is covered from debris. The shaft is all metal not nylon like my Crawler King. Definite plus. 2. Steering arms. Similar set up as bell crank steering where the servo is hooked up to 1 steering arm and a metal link drives the other arm so they move in unison. The steering has a lot of play so I'm gonna have to look at shimming it for now and getting GPM's steering assembly upgrade. 3. Assembly of front lower arms, attaching of steering arms, under carriage plate, inner drive cups, drive shafts, and front uprights or aka turnbuckles. Everything fits nice here...Tamiya quality. Front steering/suspension Underside of body The front end...the CC-01's famous brick presence. I'll be modifying that down the road to get better approach angles. I'm having so much fun! |
08-09-2010, 01:36 PM | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Now is the assembly of: 1. Rear differential. Have the option of having it open or locking it which is included in the kit. Awesomeness. The diff cover is made of metal. More awesomeness. 2. Axle shafts and rear axle case. 3. Attachment of rear plastic links, rear universal joint (used blue loctite to prevent the set screw from backing out), attaching the unit to the chassis, assembly of shocks (used 40 wt oil). Shocks are nice and smooth. I could see a problem already with the rear link as it sticks out from under the chassis...it will get hung up on stuff. I'll be modifying that with metal links (HPI or Axial) and attaching it to the side of the chassis as opposed to the underside. Tamiya likes to use ball connectors. Rear diff gear with instructions for open diff using the spider gear assembly (upper) or locked diff using a plastic lock assembly (lower instructions). Rear diff and axle assembly Rear link attachement and universal joint Rear axle attached to chassis with and without shocks Underside. You can see where the rear links stick out. |
08-09-2010, 01:39 PM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
|
I've decided to run LSD in the front diff instead of having it fully locked. I went to my LHS and bought Kyosho's 100,000 wt oil. I'm going to open it up set it up for open diffs and puck it good and puck it quickly with the slimy stuff.
|
08-09-2010, 01:40 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| So I've installed the wheels and in my opinion it looks killer! I'm so hard right now. Lol! I also installed a brand new hi torque servo and it doesn't work! I'm going to take it out, pee on it, then send it back to China. I'll have to use a weak HPI one that came with my crawler king. Did a rough hook up of electronics using the included esc....the esc isn't bad as I can tell. I'm using a receiver and transmitter from my old Tamiy TL01 chassis. I have to do some adjustments to the steering alignment to get it tracking straight but I'll deal with that later. Here are a ton more shots: Front side |
08-09-2010, 04:38 PM | #7 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Here is the body mock up. I've got a colour in mind. I plan on getting a friend to build a cage around the bed so I can tarp it and hide weapons of sorts. Let me know what you guys think! |
08-09-2010, 04:40 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
|
So I got my friend to do some tube work for the body. That way I could put canvas or a tarp over it. I can't wait to get it but time is of the essence. Here is what I'm kinda going for (these are 1:1 rigs) |
08-10-2010, 04:42 AM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Brackenfell, South Africa
Posts: 448
|
Very nice work buddy. I'd like to voice my concern with the LSD mod in the front. Plainly put - IT DOESN'T WORK. I'm just trying to save you hours of time wasting and tears. I've used thick grease. Worked great for 15min, Then the diff loosened up again. And in the middle of a killer trail, that's the last thing you want. Just fill the diff with hot glue and put up with the wider turning circle. On a more positive note, Those tires are wicked in the looks department. I'm sticking with this build till the end... |
08-10-2010, 12:32 PM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
|
Thanks LouiseBaby! So the LSD thing doesn't work? That sucks man. Maybe it only works for the first 15 mins then it gets hot from the diff action and loosens up. What weight oil were you using? |
08-10-2010, 12:34 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
|
One of my other next moves is to find a dark green fabric either a tight woven dark green cotton cloth dish towel or nylon tent material (which weighs less) as my tarp. I'm going to punch out holes in it around the sides to clamp in some metal eyelets/grommets. Probably the size of ones you'll see on some baseball caps or fishing hats. I'll have to wander into the craft store like Michaels for this. And like the pics above I'll use thin string to tie it down to the body. How will I tie the tarp to the body? My idea is to possibly punch out holes in the body to clamp eyelets in there too. Or I might try making tiny wire loops through the body to thread the string through it. What's cool about using the metal eyelets is that it will naturally rust and the rust will stain the body! How awesome would that be?!?! |
08-10-2010, 12:37 PM | #12 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Tube cage
So my friend finished the tube work in lightening fast time! All I gotta do to finish the cage is detach from the body, wash all the flux off, spray with etching primer and paint! The cage looks sick and is super sturdy! |
08-12-2010, 12:15 AM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Brackenfell, South Africa
Posts: 448
| I tried 50 000wt - Didn't work, then I stuffed the diff with automotive grease. thick and heavy, but that didn't work either. It worked better than the shock oil.
|
08-15-2010, 01:56 PM | #14 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Electronics
I got my electronics hooked up yesterday. Stock Tamiya esc (until I pick up xl-5 from eddievanchuk), HPI std servo, 2s 2200 mah lipo, and HPI 27 AM radio combo from my Crawler King. Let me just say that the AM radio sucks! Going from an Airtronics 2.4 ghz radio to AM is like jumping out of a Porsche 911 and diving into a Ford Pinto. Not quite the same feel. The AM system couldn't hold the servo steady during a turn and the throttle was all jumpy. The turning also sucked big time....The steering was very shallow and I had the servo rate maxed out! So I thought I would take the 2.4 ghz Airtronics receiver out of my crawler king and slap it in my CC-01. Wow! What a huge difference. Under a different model in my Tx I was able to set my steering EPA's for maximium steering, ABS (since the esc doesn't have a drag brake), and exp. Glitchless performance is expected but the steering input from a radio that has EPA's is awesome! I was doing some tight turns even though my front diff is locked. Only thing I have to do is buy another receiver which is $89 at E-rc! It's actually that expensive at other places too +/- $15. But the performance is worth it. I might just buy another whole new Airtronics MX-Sport all together. So you guys out there running stock AM radio's with your honcho's or crawler kings out there it's worth the extra coin to get a 2.4 ghz Rx if you already have a 2.4ghz Tx. Overall the truck runs pretty good. I think the gear meshing is a bit noisy. I'll have to double check fittings. The turning is tight. Shocks are smooth. I wish I could get a little bit more articulation from the rear axle but that'll be dealt with later. |
08-15-2010, 01:58 PM | #15 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Paint palettes
So I was playing with some paint yesterday and made some colour palettes using Createx paint. Here are the colours below and I've named my custom colours. Haha! 1. Cobalt60 Sand (main body) 2. Silent Snake Gray 3. Crimson Earth A closer look (a bit rotated) |
08-15-2010, 08:27 PM | #16 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Accessorizze!
Hey guys so I've rounded up some of my accessories for the Unimog. I have a general idea of what to do. I've picked up some some "netting" to go over my cage. It's got a spongy texture and it seems durable enough. I plan on painting the netting too like camouflage to sorta match my body. Not sure how well the painting is gonna go but I got lots of netting for screw ups. Netting Close up |
08-15-2010, 08:29 PM | #17 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
|
So here are some other things that I'll be dressing up my rig with. Anything that's silver like will be primed and painted flat textured black (Tremclad outdoor furniture paint...resists chipping!) Some stuff but not limited to. Hmm what could I use these for? How about these? What would I use these for? Clasps that are gonna be painted and used to hook up the chain that I bought. The eyelets/grommets are for the other cover I want to use for the cage. Pedro was generous in giving me some fleece to play with. I got lots of work to do! Oh my first scaler. |
08-15-2010, 08:31 PM | #18 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Canada
Posts: 196
| Cage work
I was able to get some primer on the cage and sprayed some Tremclad outdoor furniture textured flat black. I'm pleased with the results. I also cut some of my 'secret' netting. I think I cut the sides a bit short so I'll do it again...no worries I got more 'secret' netting! Wasn't able to paint the body yet cuz I'm not sure what I'm going to do with my bumper. Not sure if I'll cut part of the lexan and incorporate the bumper that came with the kit (it's not shown in the pics). The bumper that came with the kit actually is screwed on to the chassis but the body is meant to sit a bit higher which makes it look like it has a double bumper. Dumb I know. What I'll probably do is cut part of the lexan bumper and somehow screw on the real bumper to the lexan (I'll show pics later). The kit also comes with a bush guard that screws on to the bottom of the chassis. It looks pretty cool but totally hinders my approach angle so I think I'll scrap it (you can see it in the pics) Okay enough rambling...here's the photo's you guys have been waiting for! Cage screwed on to the body Now with the netting |
08-16-2010, 11:14 AM | #19 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Pacifica, CA.
Posts: 919
|
Looks good! Is there going to be rear tire rub? I ended up using Aluminum hoops for my rear bed and black canvas material. How do you like the body posts? I used magnets and velcro for mine but still had problems of the body comming off in roll overs. If you want more articulation from the rear GPM sells a 4 link that works well enough. You will need the lower rear shock mounts as well. I have my Wrangler body on it now (I go back and forth with the bodies) and I can provide pictures. Do you have the part numbers for the body posts? Thanks! Mine started off as a Jeep wrangler. Phase one: Phase two: Phase three: Here is how the GPM 4 links looks, It's a lot better than the stock set up. I would also advise in getting the GPM steering kit as well. Looks like you have a great start and it's looking great! Good job! Last edited by Grumpster1980; 08-16-2010 at 11:42 AM. |
08-16-2010, 07:09 PM | #20 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Pacifica, CA.
Posts: 919
|
Evandiego! you have inspired me to reunite my CC-01 with my Unimog Body I ended up using some body posts for the rear and some neodymium magnets for the front. The body is rock solid now and I like the way it is sitting on the chassis. Thanks for the inspiration and I can't wait to see yours all painted. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |