took my cc 01 out for the first time

[m1009cucv]

been looking around here a bit. few things i want to do.
1. 4 link rear
2. better shocks
3. lift the truck
4. better tires. thinking about proline flat irons.
5. very loose steering
6. the block in the front of the truck is in the way
7. lower gearing

think i get these taken care of truck will be pretty fun. stock tires dont grip a thing!! any tips or tricks to get more out of this chassis? thanks for the help

[rustykaos]

1. 4 link rear is so much better than the stock flexy plastic.
2. The Tamiya shaocks aren't too bad actually. I run GPM 70mm shocks on the front and that is a direct replacement for the stock ones but there isn't much difference between them. On the rear I use 90mm GPM shocks and find they give me much better articulation in the rear but it sits on angle going upwards at the rear. Nothing a quick readjustment with the body mounts couldn't fix tho.
3. As above for the rear. For the front I rum 3mm spacers on the top shock mounts and 2mm spacers on the belly plate (more for the steering tho) to give the front a snall lift. Also had shave the inside of the C hubs, bottom joint of the C hub as well as removing the little tab to give better steering.
4. Pretty much any 1.9 tyres will fit on the stock rims. I use the mud thrashers and find them to be brilliant but wouldn't go any bigger than 4" or there will be clearance issues.
5. Try the GPM steering upgrade and make sure when you put it together that it is very tight (I actually super glued mine together on one side to make it very strong.
6. It is very annoying so get rid of it. The only thing I like about the front block was the bumper that attached was very scale looking but haven't regretted cutting it yet. Much better climbing.
7. Couple of options here. Use the 16t gearing and not the 20t. Try a GRU (gear reduction unit) but will require some modding of the chassis and possible relocation of the battery to fit. My favourite is to use a high turn motor like a 55t or even an 80t motor. I have used a 60t and found that to be really good and have gone recently to a 55t but have found it to have less torque so will be changing to higher turn motor when this one dies.

Thats pretty much everything covered to make it an awesome crawler. I still get people that are like "oh it's a CC01" but once they see it driving and can even do more things than theres can (I love the short wheel base) they are quite taken back.

Cheers Jarrod

[m1009cucv]

thanks thats a lot of help. did you make a 4 link yourself?

[rustykaos]

I cheated and bought the GPM kit but now that they have worn out and one is bent (mind you this is from 6 months of heavy abuse) I am creating my own using steel rod ends and stainless steel threaded tube. Just waiting on the rod ends so I can measure the size tube I need then will be done.

[m1009cucv]

OK so the gpm kit is pretty good. have the front universal? they pretty good

[hvydty1]

The front universals are good if you get the steel ones. The aluminum ones have a habit of breaking when in a bind. And if you get the GPM steering kit, Do use locktite when putting it together! It will work it self loose if you don't! I have MRC tires and rims on my Jero and am very happy with it's ability. I made a 3 link setup on the rear of mine using the stock Axial Trail Ready upper plastic Y piece. Cut it to the length I wanted, drilled the centers and threaded 3mm rod into that, and installed Traxxas rod ends. Works very well!

[rustykaos]

Yes the GPM kit is good and at a very good price too. The only issue I have is that the rod ends are plastic and wear fairly quick so I am going to steel rod ends and hopefully this will last longer.

Cheers Jarrod

[m1009cucv]

put some traxxas rod ends on?

[pantablo]

Originally Posted by rustykaos

7. ...Try a GRU (gear reduction unit) but will require some modding of the chassis and possible relocation of the battery to fit.

If you use the HPI Wheely King GRU you have to mod the battery area (as the motor is pushed back a fair bit) and the trans cover for it to fit.
If you use the RC4WD GRU (which is far better in my opinion, and I've used both in many rigs) its the same diameter as the motor so the trans cover remains intact. you only have to modify the battery area to fit the motor as it gets pushed back there.

This is with the RC4WD GRU


This is the HPI GRU

[m1009cucv]

bit of a update. i have a few 1.9 tires i bought of a friend. with a integy 45 x 1 turn motor. ordered bead locks and bearings. ordering gpm steering, kuckles and drive shafts. rear drive shafts and skid from jang. GRU from rc4wd 4.1 i think would be a good mach for the motor. have the front diff locked now.. want to work on getting some play out of the steering.

any other suggestions?

[Flowmastered87GL]

4:1 is overkill.... I have 2.5 to 1 and its slow enough. (with a 55T motor) I would think either 2 or 3 to 1 ratio depending on if you want more or less top speed.

[m1009cucv]

for now i have a integy 45 x 1 turn motor. with the stock esc