CC-01 Landcruiser 40 build

[SMiTHBRo]

Nice work. Funnily enough I did this mod on mine after my rear diff started clicking a few months back.

[Manfjourde]

I am missing it. Can you draw a little arrow in photoshop on the pic to show where it goes? I am just finishing up the rear axle but may strip it down and do this before I continue.

[derb]

Hopefully this helps you. The crappy red squares are the two extra bearings I put in.

[Manfjourde]

Yes thank you! I was wondering if the slight amount of side to side slop was normal. Guess ill be tracking down two extra bearings before I finish it! Thanks.

[derb]

Originally Posted by Manfjourde

Yes thank you! I was wondering if the slight amount of side to side slop was normal. Guess ill be tracking down two extra bearings before I finish it! Thanks.

You can use the plastic 5x11 'bearing' and the 5x8 copper 'bearing' from the kit if you've still got it lying around. Neither of those 2 bearings on mine touch the plastic of the axle, so you really dont need a real bearing on there unless you feel like it.

[Manfjourde]

I did this and seems little tight when I spin them. Could it be my new gears are broken in? Should I shim the pinion with a washer so it doesn't contact quite as tight? They seem to be tighter at certain points, not the while rotation.

[derb]

I used brand new gears as well and didn't have that issue. Maybe take one bearing and run it over sandpaper for a while to bring its width down a little? If you use the copper bearing from the kit that should be able to be sanded down pretty easy.

[Manfjourde]

That worked perfect, Derb you are the man. I sanded the plastic bushing before your reply but didn't do much so did the smaller copper one and it worked. I also added a thin washer on both sides of the axle between the e-clip and bearing and that took all of the slop out and the gears turn soooo smooth now! Coming along!

[derb]

Awesome! I'm so glad this is working for others.

[derb]

Finally got out to North Lakes and it spat out a CVD after 30 secs. Lost the pin and barrel. However, MoonUnit's box of tricks contained another pin and barrel which just happen to fit. Then we put heat-shrink tube over where the pins come out so there is no way either of them can spit their pins out again. I also drilled some holes in my rims so they vented and the Flat Irons are performing even better now. Looking forward to the next comp. Here's a couple of pics from this arvo.

[derb]

Another pic from yesterday.

[derb]

This rig has been trucking along nicely for several weeks now. No more CVD issues thanks to heat shrinking the pins into the hubs.

My new wheels came in as well, a black on black set of Vanquish Products SX-4W 1.9" beadlock wheels. This is my first set of metal rims, and my stock plastic hexes had become pretty trashed, so I bought a set of 6mm clamp-type alloy hexes. I bought the Tamiya ones as I knew they would work without any issues, plus they gave me a MASSIVE 1mm of extra wheel base on both sides.

I also vented the wheels with a 2mm drill bit. It's pretty nerve racking chomping into a brand new set of very sexy and expensive wheels, but was worth it. When I tested back at North Lakes again I can clear 95% of the pure sharp rock stages without any assistance. My friend's SCX10 just makes it through and I think it's pretty amazing that I can keep up in a CC01.

[Sime111]

Where did you get your front chassis spacers/washers from? Thanks

[derb]

They came in the kits I bought from JunFac. Both the underbody plate [that comes with the 4-link kit] and the rear diff plate turned out to be hinderances, but they came with those nice spacers. You can actually buy just the spacers from Junfac here, Rock Crawling Custom Parts : JunFac.com.

[northernerbill]

Lookin sexy and sounds well capable mate.

[derb]

Thanks mate. First comp on the new wheels this Sunday, can't wait.

[derb]

Not much to report on my little beast as it has taken a back seat to my GMade R1 over the last few months. However I've been able to run it on the last two weekends and I still love it to bits. First run was a bit of a bummer as I got about 400m from our start point and then rolled it into a muddy water filled ditch and lost the ESC. Thankfully after a day left sitting it dried out and was back to its former self. The best day was yesterday though, ran it for an hour and a half before I got overconfident and drowned it again. But it's still ridiculously capable, even following an SCX10 with 2.2s on it! I'll dry out the ESC again and then I'm going to coat it with plasti-dip as I just can't stay away from water.

Now, future plans time! The local RC comps have really clamped down on Scale - Class 1 rules and if I try and comply with them the CC01 will just be useless. Plus since the rule enforcement we haven't had a single other Class 1 rig turn up anyway. Soooo, I'm going to extend the wheelbase to SCX10 specs and also do the front portal hub mod with the 1:1 gear ratio trick so the front isn't underdriven. Then I'll be taking on all the SCX10 boys with the glory of IFS! I honestly think I'm in with a chance since everyone always comments on how balanced and stable it is. I can side wall at ludicrous angles and people love it, plus I've run it on a few of the Class 2 courses over the months and I only stuck on the steepest inclines due to the lack of wheelbase.

ALL GLORY TO THE CC01!!!

[derb]

I've ordered the 3Racing CR01 portal knuckles and have decided to go with an SCX10 rear axle so I can run the underdrive gears in it. I'm hoping that will make the rear wheels spin slower than the fronts with the knuckle ratios untouched. If it's not good enough I'll continue down the path of the 1:1 ratio mod.

My ESC is toast though, and silly me didn't even try it out before it got plasti-dipped. I'll hunt down another TEU-104 which should be super cheap and dip it before it even touches the rig. I'm also going to buy another tub because there will be plenty of clearance for the wheels outside the factory guards, plus I think the rules state I'm not allowed the clearance any factory guards/arches on the body. Plus it's also super cheap, about $20.

[derb]

Got a very nice surprise this evening, my mate had been messing around and upgrading his lower links on his scx10 and decided to muck around with my CC01 and extend its wheelbase with spares he had lying around. The upper links are actually the normal lower links and the lower links are from a Wraith kit he picked up. I'll need to suss out a drive shaft setup as nothing we have is longer enough to reach from the transmission output all the way back now, plus having a single shaft that long will create one heck of a hang up point. Will also need to make some shock mounts off the tub to keep them fairly straight. This is all very preliminary at this stage as I am still not 100% on what rear axle I'll end up using.

[SFC K]

Are you planning on sticking with the same body? I am curious as to what axles you are going ot swap out too. Nice build and it has transformed nicley since your first post.

The new wheels look great and the hexs are a great idea. You meant width though and not wheel base, right? The wider hexs will widen your truck.