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11-22-2012, 08:04 PM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
| New to Rc trucks and the CC01
I have just got my first real RC truck and chose the CC01 FJ40. I have ordered all the goodies, GPM upgrades, 106mm MT Baja Claws, 1.9 black wheels, winch, yeah racing 80mm dampers, roof rack. Can't wait to start the build, I'm not looking at going for a full on crawler just want to keep it nice a scale looking truck but still capable... Any tips and tricks for my build? How to lock the diffs? Not sure about the shocks, anybody used this brand before? Thanks |
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11-22-2012, 08:26 PM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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...also what does the GPM bulkhead do? Any pics?
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11-22-2012, 09:14 PM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 571
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
OK here we go. There is quite an annoying 'brick' that sits past the front of the tyres that will kill your approach, but if you're going scale then dont cut the tub. What GPM upgrades have you got? The bulkhead is only for models with hard shells like the Jeep and Pajero. Get some kind of steering upgrade, be it GPM or Yeah Racing. Tyre choice is good, maybe some Proline tyres or Rovers for a bit more grip. Locking the diffs is easy, the G parts in the kit include a locker for the rear. And when you use it, you have 3 spider diff gears left, so put these in the front axle gear to lock it up too. Find my build and find the part where I rebuilt my rear axle, as I found a solution to removing all the side to side axle play inside the casing which can evetually kill your crown and pinion in the diff. I haven't used Yeah Racing shocks but even the stock ones are actually pretty damn good. A few people, me included, are running the RC4WD ultimate scale shock in 80mm or 90mm. They are internally sprung and need no shock oil and work really nicely as a droop configuration. I would advise you to pick up the JunFac 4-link kit for the rear along with one of their carbon steel driveshafts. As for electronics, the TEU104 ESC is actually pretty good. No drag brake or lipo cutoff, but its not bad. I still run it along with a BEC to pump 7v into the servo for stronger steering. If you're using the stock Tamiya motor it's going to haul ass and crawl poorly. Try a 55t motor, but I would recommend using one of the RC4WD gear reduction units. I run a 2:1 unit and a 45t motor which technically makes it 90t outputting to the spur gear. Full throttle is walking pace but it can creep along nicely and it actually functions as something of a mechanical drag brake. Like compression braking in normal cars. Have a browse through some of the decent builds in this forum and see what others have done and see if that's what you want to do. My CC01 was my very first RC vehicle ever and I think it's perfect for newbies like me. Looks awesome in stock form and doesn't take too many mods before it starts to walk over anything. I can keep up with a modified SCX10 in my little beast! Last edited by derb; 11-22-2012 at 09:17 PM. |
11-22-2012, 10:36 PM | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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Thanks Derb. I've purchased all the components from GPM for the front and rear suspension and steering. Was just asking about the bulkhead coz I saw it on the GPM site. Went for the Baja Claws coz that's what I run in my 1:1 4x4. I am already running LiPo's with a LVA, love the charge times! I'd like to look at motor in the future but at the moment just going to raise it to fit the bigger tyres and get the 40 looking nice. Thanks for the help.
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11-26-2012, 06:48 PM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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Just an update on the build. Started painting the shell. Put the 80mm shocks in, rear sits up high now, need those spacers for the front! |
11-26-2012, 07:04 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 571
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
You did a much nicer job of painting the accents on the FJ40 shell then I did, it should look wicked. What colour are you going? Two tone white roof?
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11-27-2012, 05:29 AM | #7 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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I'm thinking yellow all over.
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11-27-2012, 10:59 AM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Minnesota
Posts: 107
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
Nice job on the detail paint so far....always did like those bodies Nice work! JC |
11-27-2012, 11:54 AM | #9 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Brighton UK
Posts: 1,363
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
If you can pick up a high torque servo and horn that will be a big improvement, the stock ain't too strong. I put second hand ones in mine dirt cheep. Nice work on the shell so far! Weight the wheels if you havnt already it helps a lot. |
11-27-2012, 03:06 PM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 571
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01 |
11-28-2012, 01:04 PM | #11 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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Lol, more of a Tonka truck!
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11-29-2012, 03:56 PM | #12 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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Curious what's a good size tyre to run on these? Outer diameter? 106mm??
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11-29-2012, 03:59 PM | #13 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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Derb, do those rc4wd shocks have lots of travel? Are they soft?
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11-29-2012, 04:07 PM | #14 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 571
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
Define 'lots of travel'. They always keep the rear end down, but the front can't help but lift a wheel due to the independent suspension. They are nice and soft though, they basically turn into a droop setup by default. Plus internally sprung and no oil means less maintenance. And you can also buy the RC4WD scale shock boots to make them look like real gas struts. As for tyres, jump over to this thread where we have been discussing scale tyres pretty heavily. ESC, Motor, Wheels/Tyres & GRU Set Up |
11-30-2012, 05:56 AM | #15 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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Started to put all the GPM front suspension components in this afternoon. Found the 'dog bone' to be to have less travel than the factory one. Anyone else find this?
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11-30-2012, 03:33 PM | #16 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 571
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
Do you mean you bought the GPM CVD shafts? And what exactly do you mean by less travel? Got any pics?
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11-30-2012, 06:04 PM | #17 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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By 'dog bone' I mean the front upper suspension arm. It doesn't seem to have as much up-down travel, binds on the ball joint, restricting it.
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11-30-2012, 10:13 PM | #18 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 571
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
Ah, I haven't got those parts but think I can see how it's affecting you. Can you try and limit down travel of the suspension components somehow?
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12-01-2012, 06:58 PM | #19 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Melbourne
Posts: 40
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Put my GPM 4 link kit, front suspension parts and steering upgrade on during this week. The steering kit seems to have slop, will investigate further when I have some more free time. |
12-01-2012, 08:17 PM | #20 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Oakdale, MN
Posts: 420
| Re: New to Rc trucks and the CC01
Looking good! You will still have slop with the GPM steering kit. Not as much if you left it stock. The problem seems to be the ball ends on mine. I left them anyway and can live with it.
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