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Old 07-06-2013, 11:14 AM   #1
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Default gpm steel cv's

I have read a lot on the aluminum ones but I haven't found much on the steel ones, any body have any experience with them. I'm running a 55t motor without a gru so they won't be heavily stressed. I know the. Yeah Raceing ones are better but I have a lot of Amazon gift cards to burn and all they have is the gpm. Thanx guys.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:31 AM   #2
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

Well I ordered them, I'll do a mini review after I bash them a while and name the tread accordingly so the next guy with questions doesn't have to wade through countless build treads only to come up empty handed. Awsome search engine here huh lol.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:05 AM   #3
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

Search engine here is wonky for sure. I have a set on my rig (in this section somewhere) - no issues to date.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:45 PM   #4
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Default

One hint for searching these forums is to use some google-fu. If you want to find a specific term (and not wait 60 seconds between searches) go to google and enter your search term followed by a site search. it might look like "GPM site:rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-xc-cc01/"

Once you're in it you can refine terms, do Boolean searches, image searches. Really speeds things up
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:51 PM   #5
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

The GPM steel shafts are a real headscratcher for me when I bought them for my CC01...

For one, there are two thin metal shims that come along with the set. Don't know what they are for - they're too thin to serve any beneficial purpose and the inner diameter is too large to correctly sit between the outdrive of the shaft and bearing without falling out.

Second, on the bolt end of the shaft itself (where the swing pin meets the dogbone), the circular flange does not run a full circle. This I find also contributing to the shims falling out as well.

See pic


Last edited by csb510; 07-09-2013 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:57 PM   #6
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

Perhaps it goes between the bearing and the knuckle instead.

Last edited by smokinloon; 07-09-2013 at 11:59 PM. Reason: auto corect spelling strikes again
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:39 AM   #7
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinloon View Post
Perhaps it goes between the bearing and the knuckle instead.
Correct. No idea why, I never bothered to put it in and it fits fine.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:22 PM   #8
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

A little update. I have been running these pretty hard for a few weeks with a 55t and 3s and the joints are still tight and they are still straight as new, even with a heavy trigger finger. The only thing I don't like is that they aren't very smooth at steep angles so if you lift the suspension it will have "wheel wobble". It seems to be getting better as I drive it so I'm wondering if the rough edges are wearing down.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:03 AM   #9
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

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Originally Posted by OSRC View Post
Correct. No idea why, I never bothered to put it in and it fits fine.
That would a lot more sense but if you didn't have ball bearings in the knuckles... the cv will round out the inside of your bushings. That's GPM for ya.
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:09 AM   #10
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

Well I spent most of Sunday chasing a couple of wraiths on the rocks and after a lot of hard falls and rock jumping they still look good. Impressive for only 17$
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:29 AM   #11
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

Yup best upgrade for your cc-01 if you've locked both diffs. I'd look into the sloppy steering next!
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:37 AM   #12
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Default Re: gpm steel cv's

Movin the servo up front as I type this, may try a suicide steering setup like you see on the wraith/ridgecrest.
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