My First CC01 build...Or crawler for that matter!

[laxboy411]

I'm new to the crawling world and want to get into it on a budget so I bought a CC01 Bronco kit. This thread is so that you people can help me take the right direction throughout my build.
Well, I ordered the truck and such, it should be here soon, ill keep posted on the build.

My overall plan is:
Hobbyking radio and reciever
XL-5 and stock motor (being replaced in the future with either a GRU or a 55t RC4WD motor)
GPM suspension links, I figured it was cheaper than Junfac
RC4WD 1.9 White steel rims on 1.9 rock creepers
Make my own trail bumper
Magic link mod
Traxxas Waterproof servo
Boca full bearing kit

That's really it. I was looking on other forums and people were talking about chopping the "Brick wall"? Someone inform me on this. I presume its the giant plastic block under the bumper.

Please inform me of whats the best options for me. I plan on doing medium crawling and a bit of trailing, I'm new to this.

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by laxboy411

I'm new to the crawling world and want to get into it on a budget so I bought a CC01 Bronco kit. This thread is so that you people can help me take the right direction throughout my build.
Well, I ordered the truck and such, it should be here soon, ill keep posted on the build.

My overall plan is:

Hobbyking radio and reciever Good bang for the buck, keep it, upgrade later if desired.

XL-5 and stock motor (being replaced in the future with either a GRU or a 55t RC4WD motor) Not sure if the XL5 is programmable for a drag break, but you may want it. As for motor/GRU options, I just installed an HPI GRU in my Pajero and it's SLOW! For a trail rig I'd say go with a 55+ turn motor. For the real scale technical crawling, shoot for the GRU for a little more slow speed torque and finesse. While a 55 turn motor is slow, they also have a very narrow RPM range. With a GRU and a lower turn motor (even the stock 27t), you open up that range. While my rig is slow, it is VERY tractible and has GOBS of torque from a dead stop.

GPM suspension links, I figured it was cheaper than Junfac Nice piece, nice truss for the top of the axle is included. The only downfall I've found to the GPM link kit is the rod-end orientation. With the rod end laying flat you are limited in droop travel. Ideally, my next rig will include the GPM upper truss, and the Junfac lower mounts, with a mix of links as needed.

RC4WD 1.9 White steel rims on 1.9 rock creepers Nice choice. You may find that you want 1.55s later on for a little better scale appearance (not sure how scale you plan on going)

Make my own trail bumper Do it, post pics! I need to build some myself, and need ideas on how to mount them.

Magic link mod I skipped this in favor of longer shocks in the future. The idea that the suspension can just fall away from the chassis without any dampening spooks me a little. I had a similar experience in a borrowed Jeep YJ a few years back with TeraFlex Revolver shackles on it. Dropped over a bank, the suspension drooped, and the rig just about did a front flip.

Traxxas Waterproof servo If you already have it, run it. If not, start looking at some of Hitecs offerings, and a BEC for full servo torque. My personal choice being the Hitec HS-5646WP.

Boca full bearing kit Quality, but spendy! Asia Tees offers a Boom Racing Kit for $8 with 18 RUBBER SEALED bearings. If you order any GPM parts, snag these up at the same time.

That's really it. I was looking on other forums and people were talking about chopping the "Brick wall"? Someone inform me on this. I presume its the giant plastic block under the bumper. Exactly, check my thread. Just did it.

Please inform me of whats the best options for me. I plan on doing medium crawling and a bit of trailing, I'm new to this.

Looks like you got a solid plan formed so far. I've altered your post with a few things to consider, and a few things I considered myself. I'm new to the CC01, but have LOTS of crawler experience. Just ideas, trying to help with what I've found so far.

[89redranger]

Not sure why the colors aren't showing, but you can see what I wrote in there.

Edit: fixed.

[laxboy411]

Thanks for your response! but for the magic link, I plan on using this kind of system so I dont get any sag. I think by putting a spring thats soft enough will be enough for the suspension to flex and return but not too stiff as that will defeat the whole purpose.



Edit: Also, what about the steering? any tricks? I heard its terrible out of the box and the GPM one has quality control issues.

[OSRC]

Terrible out of the box? No. Does wear though and develop slop after a while, and the Tamiya 5mm ball ends start to develop some play. GPM kit is a decent upgrade imo with a bit of work - JB Weld or loctite on the ends of the through shaft specifically. Swapping over to Traxxas Stampede rod ends removes the play from the linkages.

Something to think about for the future, but not needed right out of the box imo. Stock setup will do fine for a while.

[89redranger]

Originally Posted by OSRC

Terrible out of the box? No. Does wear though and develop slop after a while, and the Tamiya 5mm ball ends start to develop some play. GPM kit is a decent upgrade imo with a bit of work - JB Weld or loctite on the ends of the through shaft specifically. Swapping over to Traxxas Stampede rod ends removes the play from the linkages.

Something to think about for the future, but not needed right out of the box imo. Stock setup will do fine for a while.

I just swapped to the GPM steering kit with JB weld on the lower end of the steering arm, and loctite on the upper end. Even with a BRAND NEW steering kit I could see the play. Didn't even wanna risk it.

I'm curious though, how much work does it take to swap in the Traxxas rod-ends? I have a full set sitting here, but couldn't see the body of them fitting without spacing the lower skid/arm mount down off the linkage, or really hacking into the skid. Maybe it's just my eyes...

[OSRC]

They fit. Use button hear screws. It's tight, but it works out. Think I ground a bit for clearance on the GPM kit on one, and bent the steering rod a touch on another due to some other mods I made. Just run it through the full suspension travel and you'll see if you need to make changes, if any. There's 2 kinds of ends in the kit - I try to use the squared off ends on the knuckles, and the more rounded end on the steering rack side if that makes sense.


As far as the steering, there is a little play on mine too, I don't even notice it when wheeling.

[89redranger]

Awesome. I plan on a little grinding of the GPM kit to raise the chassis end of the tie-rods anyway. As it sits now, the tie-rods run at a slightly shallower angle than the front a-arms, causing a little bump steer. The only other solution would be using a spacer between the rod end and knuckle, which would require more shaving of the stock skid/arm mount.

[OSRC]

Yes sir, you are exactly right. A 5mm spacer works perfect.

[89redranger]

Thanks for the confirmation, and more ideas to drain my funds...lol. Done with the thread jack now, time to get to work. Hoping to see some progress on this build as well. Hell, we left him with a good set of ideas to start with...