First RC Build CC01

[BTaylor20]

So this is my first RC build, normally build scale models so this is all new to me.

I have no experience in the RC world at all so it's quite exciting to try something new.

I originally wanted to build a rally car but couldn't decide what chassis to go for. I then started looking around at off road vehicles including buggies, monster trucks etc.

I didn't have much knowledge of the crawling world so this didn't really come into mind, however when I popped down to my local hobby store and checked out the models for sale I saw an FJ Cruiser on the top shelf and took the plunge.

Specification:
Tamiya 540 Motor (think 27T)
Tamiya TBLE-02S Esc
Carson CS-3 Servo
Tamco 3000 Nimh
Absima CR2S V.2 (2 Channel) - with 3 channel receiver
Absima CB-1P Charger

I will upload some pictures soon.

Any recommendations for mods or upgrades welcome.

[BTaylor20]

Just a pic of the finished chassis with all electrics etc installed.

[BTaylor20]

A few pics of the cut out shell on the chassis.

[BTaylor20]

So far not many modifications but this is what I have done.

Shaved off the two small blocks on the c-cups for more steering rotation, this has gained me a couple of degrees on full lock which is great. However the dog bones now make a horrible rattling/clicking noise on full lock, as if they are about to fly out.

To prevent this I've ordered some universal CVD's so hopefully this will resolve that issue.

I've also shaved off some plastic on the bottom of the c-cup to gain some more clearance.

[slotter]

I've locked the front axle,put a LRP Truck Puller 3 motor in and installed the metal wheel hexes from tamiya and for the ground clearance I put TRAXXAS Summit wheels on it (the small ones) it's plus 1,5 cm higher off the ground and runs great.Oke it's slow but it can handle anything.

[BTaylor20]

Yes I forgot to mention that I have locked the front and rear diff.

Front diff has been locked using the spider method and the rear using the tamiya plastic diff lock that comes with the kit.

I originally left the front diff open and couldn't crawl up anything, not even a steep pillow lol.

Much better now the fronts locked too.

[MountainStorm]

Curious to hear how the CVDs work for you. The ones I got to replace the bent dog bones in the Pink Pony did not offer any advantage except perhaps not flying apart. I was a little underwhelmed by the plastic knuckles and bushings instead of bearings and all that slop in the bell crank so I plan to upgrade those parts with aluminum and bearings. I get wicked chugging at anything approaching full lock with the CVDs...but at least they don't fly apart like the bones in cup arrangement.

CC-01 is a neat crawler IMO. Fun to run.

[BTaylor20]

I think my issue with the dog bones is where the part that sits in the cup rotates when on full lock is it hitting/knocking the cup itself.

I would have thought CVD's would solve this issue as they cannot come loose and should be secure, the problem isn't with the part that sits within the diff cup as there is more room for the bone to move outwards.

However if the CVD's don't work then I'll have to buy some more c hubs and stay with the original steering angle.

I have just ordered a GPM steering kit too so looking forward to seeing how that turns out.

[aircooled]

Originally Posted by BTaylor20

Carson CS-3 Servo

Don't you think a 3kg Servo is a bit weak? I usually put 10-15kg servos in my CCs

[BTaylor20]

The kit came as a package deal so I didn't get a choice in servo, motor etc.

These will most probably be upgraded when I've done some research or if anyone on here can recommend what ones to go for.

[OkinawaCrawler]

Does that esc have drag brake?

[slotter]

If you use the original Tamiya esc with the truck puller motor you don't need a drag brake the motor has so much torque,if you stop your car even on the steepest hill it stay's right on the spot.
But I've had a great difference with the metal wheel hexes it gives your car just the grip it needs and they are tamiya hop ups mine came from my m-chassis.

[BTaylor20]

Not sure if the ESC I have has drag brake, I didn't are anything like that in the manual when programming.

But if what slotter says is true then I'll just purchase a higher torque motor.

[BTaylor20]

Put the wheels in some bleach over night to remove the chrome, I didn't really like the chrome and didn't want to spend the time spraying them as I will get some nice beadlocks sometime soon so this will do for now.



They look a bit purple/blue in the pic but that's just the flash on my phone.

[BTaylor20]

Just a little flex from the rear, not much for now but it is on the list to improve.

[BTaylor20]

Few pictures of the front suspension.

My rubber bearings came through the post today so will be putting those in soon, just waiting for my CVD and GPM steering unit to arrive.

[BTaylor20]

Decided to put some left over O rings on the outerside of the front diff where the dog bones to sit to stop them from rattling as much on full lock.

I have to say this has worked a treat, dog bones feel much more secure and no more rattling noise.

So anyone that trims the plastic on the c cups for more articulation should definitely do this to stop any noise and play.

[BTaylor20]

Been a productive last couple of days, fitted some rubber ball bearings.





Just some pics of the rear axle and knuckles. Didn't take too many as I'm sure you all know what they look like.

The knuckle were a complete bugger to remove the bronze bushing so has to soak in boiling water.



I also re-locked the front diff as it didn't feel firm enough, and the plastic cover wasn't as flat as I'd like it to be.

[BTaylor20]

CVDs arrived today and have to say they fit really nicely and work with the articulation and clearance mod to the c cups.

[BTaylor20]

Not all good news I'm afraid as I lost control and flew into a piece of decking earlier.

This caused my front skit plate to snap at the wishbone joint so looks like I'll be forking out a couple of quid to replace that next week.