![]() | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Australia
Posts: 5
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Hi. My first post here. I'm very new to the scene and this is my first venture into a scale rig/crawler. I picked up a CC-01 Unimog kit a few days ago. I don't plan on opening the box until I do a lot more research on the model and figure out what hop ups are best. I know hop ups are plentiful for this chassis and there are a lot of home made mods that get the most from them as well. But as I'm new to this I don't really know what's best and what's not. I'd like to use this thread to document the build but I'd also like to get lots of advice about what parts are best to use. I had planned to build the kit and drive it, upgrading as I saw fit. But I recently built a Tamiya Novafox and already I've noticed some weaknesses with it. That has convinced me to upgrade the CC-01 chassis during the initial build. I want a capable, waterproof Unimog. As close to scale as I can practically get. I want to use it for light to medium crawling if possible and it will also need to be fast and stable enough to drive on trails. If money was no object, what parts would you source to build it? I am mechanically competent but my access to specialist tools is now limited (I don't have a lathe for example!). I do not wish to just throw the most expensive parts at this thing. Nor do I wish to chop up the chassis too much. I will buy a CR-01 in time. For now I'd like to get this going. So give me your suggestions for a dream build. ![]() Chris. |
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![]() | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: St. Louis
Posts: 40
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I also got my kit last week. My plan is to build it stock (plus bearings), run it, and see where I think it's weak. The only thing I've done so far is to paint the rims. ![]() I'm trying to match this, but my red is a little too dark. ![]() I've started putting parts on the chassis that I can without bearings. I can already tell that I'd rather use Traxxas style rod ends rather than the cups from Tamiya. ![]() I've also ordered the Tamiya brand universal drives for the front since I'm no fan of dogbones. If I had more free money to spend on this, I'd make custom links for the rear and get tractor tires all around. I'm going follow your build. Last edited by HappyCrawler; 03-24-2015 at 01:12 PM. |
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![]() | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: In the sticks
Posts: 913
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Congratulations on owning a Unimog. Now that, that's outta the way, open the box, take the tires and throw them as far as you can. Buy bearings! Do some research on here and you'll find everything you could ever want to know about the CC01. I think taking your time and paying close attention to fit and finish is the best mod you can do. My spur didn't fit as tight as it should have and I lost power to the front wheels under a hard climb. New spur is now shimmed and the gears mesh the way they should. The CC01 is pretty high geared and some people install a gear reduction unit (GRU) to get the torque. I'm using a HPI and in my opinion it's to low. Walking speed with a 27T motor at full throttle. (slow walking speed) The HPI is 4.7:1 and you have to do some carving to make it fit. I'm going to try the RC4WD 2:1 GRU and see where that goes. Steering is a bad point and will need some attention. I bought GPM steering and I'm not happy with the fit and quality of it. Use lock tight on the screws that hold the rear diff halves together!!!! Also if you're going to climb with it, lock both diffs. I'm also running 13mm wheel spacers and they make a big difference. Cutting off or modifying the front of the chassis is a good idea for crawling. There's a million different opinions on the rear 4 links. I noticed that the front where they mount to the chassis would always get hung up. Aftermarket 4 links will do the same thing, but you can mount the forward ball end on the side of the chassis and this was a big improvement on mine. I added weight to the front of mine because it would flip over backwards pretty easy. I've done several more mods since these pic's were taken. I'll try to get some current ones posted one of these days. Good luck with your build! Looking forward to seeing it come together. Last edited by Jeepiac; 03-24-2015 at 10:46 PM. |
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![]() | #4 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Australia
Posts: 5
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Thanks guys. Fantastic info Jeepiac. I saw your build on here. I believe a set of Fast Eddy bearings is on my list. I also read a lot of good reviews about the Junfac 4 link rear end. I'll add that to the list. Should I really be getting 2 longer links for the side of the chassis if I'm going to mount them there? Does the 4 link work with the Tamiya Stroke Extension Links? They look like a nice mod too. I was going through the Junfac catalogue and might grab a set of the SR03 beadlock wheels. They're 1.9 but should work, based on what I've been reading. I just have to find a set of tyres that will fit the body. Any ideas on a trail tyre capable of some crawling that isn't too tall? The GPM steering kit seems to be the only one available, so I guess that's on the list. They do a servo mount and a gearbox mount so I might grab them at the same time. Is a shock upgrade worth it? I see on the Junfac site the Gmade XD Piggyback shocks come in 75mm, which should fit. And they have some good reviews. Or is there another shock that I should consider. Tamiya do a hop up shock in 70mm, which is meant to be nice. What's the "nicest"? What about driveline? Junfac do a hardened tailshaft. The RC Channel front and rear ends look nice, but are they just bling? I don't want to go for a GRU just yet but what gear upgrades are required. What 55T or 60T motor should I be looking at? Waterproof servo???? Sorry for 1000 questions. I'm researching like crazy but have no experience with this yet. I don't want to waste money on bling. Just want useful parts (at this stage). Thanks again. Chris. |
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![]() | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: St. Louis
Posts: 40
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Those Junfac shocks look great, but are they going to help that much if you're crawling vs. racing?
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![]() | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: London
Posts: 21
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I don't like any of the 4 link kits. They all use the std mountings, so the ball joint are operating in the wrong plane. The ball joints have full range movement sideways, but should be up and down, so if you get enough movement, will bind. I'm working on a way of mounting the ball joints so they're turned 90 degrees. The ball joints are quite poor also. There is another steering kit I've found, but at that price, it's too much to risk in case it's as poor as GPM's. Anyone tried it, or going to be first? Tamiya CC 01 Aluminum Steering Crank Full Set RD Square | eBay Last edited by SlimJim16v; 03-25-2015 at 03:53 PM. |
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![]() | #7 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: St. Louis
Posts: 40
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I was building mine out tonight since my bearings came in today. Well...I had an issue. Stupid e-clips. ![]() I broke one completely and bent the other one so badly, it's a lost cause. Going to the hobby shop tomorrow. |
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![]() | #8 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Australia
Posts: 5
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So I've been doing a lot of research here and around the net. I've had a look through the box at the pieces and I've sort of come up with some upgrades I might get for this truck. Here's a list of stuff so far. Please comment on the parts. Front End: GPM Steering Kit GPM Lower Arm Plate GPM Upper Suspension Arm GPM Lower Suspension Arm GPM Front Damper Mount GPM C-Hubs GPM Steering Knuckles Tamiya CVD's (#54608 ) Or is it worth looking at the RC Channel front end? Not many reviews about it. Rear End: Junfac 4 Link Conversion Tamiya Stroke Extension Links Wheels/Tyres: Junfac SR03 Steel Beadlocks (matt black) GPM Aluminium Hex Drives I'm still undecided on tyres. I'll also grab some black wheel nuts to suit the SR03's lol. Driveline: Fast Eddy Bearing Kit GPM Servo Mount GPM Gearbox Mount GPM Motor Plate Junfac Uni Shaft I'm also unsure on what gears need upgrading. GPM do a bunch. They worth it? I think these mods will get a bit more durability and performance out of the truck. I'm yet to properly research the electrics. I will really need advice on that as it's still very new to me and there is so much choice it's a bit overwhelming at the moment. Thanks. Chris. |
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![]() | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Douglassville, PA
Posts: 4,122
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Wouldn't bother with any of the gears, Tamiya's nylon gears are very strong. I've run mine for years with no issues. I mod the rear shocks on mine in various ways (see my build threads) but in the front I always come back to the stock ones. Tamiya's plastic CVA'a are quite good, leak free, and have enough travel to handle any mods you make up front. Just my 2 cents. Welcome to the CC01 club! |
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![]() | #10 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: St. Louis
Posts: 40
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You might consider just the weak points first during the build and see how you do with mostly stock before doubling the price tag of the truck with aluminum parts. That's also just my opinion. I'm currently building mine and I personally think these are the weak points so far. - front dogbones. I'm replacing mine with the Tamiya kit. - plastic bushings. Self-explanatory. I've replaced mine with rubber sealed Chinese bearings (against everyone's recommendation) - drive shaft. I'm planning on the Junfac. - rear links. I've read a lot of reviews saying that the GPM kit isn't much better than stock since the axis of travel is still wrong unless you mount the links to the side of the chassis. I'm staying with stock for now unless I make my own links. - tires (or tyres for you ![]() - springs. They all seem too stiff compared to the weight of the rig. I'd like softer ones all around. I'm also getting a very high torque waterproof servo (Traxxas 2075). That's it for me so far. Hope this helps. |
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![]() | #11 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: In the sticks
Posts: 913
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I haven't bought anything for the front suspension, just modified what was there already and it's working pretty good. Did buy a set of Tamiya CV's, just haven't had time to throw then in yet. I built it, ran it and then changed what I didn't like. Still on the fence about the stroke extension kit. Probably end up trying one though. I'll try to get a picture of the tires and wheels I ended up with on mine. The whole set cost about $20 on ebay. The wheels are exact match to the originals and the tires look very moggish. |
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![]() | #12 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Australia
Posts: 5
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Well I bought some bits today. I grabbed some 1.9" Kong tyres in 96mm from eBay. I'd heard good things about them for the price. They're not too tall for a 1.9" either. I also ordered a CC-01 bearing kit. They're the rubber sealed and I added 4 extra 850 bearings for a GPM Steering Kit. From the Junfac site I ordered the 4 Link Kit, a set of 1.9 SR03 beadlocks in matt black with matching wheel nuts/covers, a set of 12mm Hex Adapters and their Hardened Uni Shaft. I've also ordered the Tamiya Stroke Extension Kit for the rear shocks and the Tamiya front CVD's. There's a few GPM parts I'd like but I'm having a had time finding them in black. I guess I'll just have to keep looking. Hopefully these parts arrive soon and I can start the build. Or I'll just get impatient and start building anyway. I'll have to start sourcing electronics soon too, so I'll have a million questions regarding that. Chris. |
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![]() | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: In the sticks
Posts: 913
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Sounds like you're going to have a pretty sweet CC01 when it's done. You gotta spend the 20 bucks so you can post pictures as you go ![]() |
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![]() | #14 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Australia
Posts: 5
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Thanks Jeepiac. I'm new to this so if it works Ok I'll be happy! I just ordered the GPM Steering Kit, Servo Mount and Motor Mount. I also ordered a set of black GPM Steering Knuckles. I'm unsure if I'll use them but they seem to be hard to find so I thought I'd grab them just in case. I've also just discovered there is a lack of compatibility between the Junfac 4 link and the Tamiya Stroke Extension Kit. I was worried about this and it seems the Junfac links foul on their skid plate as the suspension droops. It's only a minor issue so I'll just grind the plate a bit to get it working. A few more bits of hardware to gather then on to the electrics. Chris. |
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![]() | #15 |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: London
Posts: 21
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Don't bother with the alloy GPM upper front suspenion arms. If you've modifed the suspension for more travel, the ball joints won't have enough movement and restrict your newly aquired extra travel. The adjustable ones are OK though and you can add a touch on negative camber too. |
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![]() | #16 | |
Pebble Pounder ![]() Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: North Alabama
Posts: 124
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I plan on a minimalistic build of the Unimog with maybe better tires and waterproof electronics..thats it! Drive it and have fun with it! | |
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