My wrangler is finally finished! I think...

[Reaxion911]

Hey guys figured id post my cc01 build and tutorial/how to for the most effective cheap or free mods. Some pics my cc01 out for a test run today. Mods include relocating rear links, gutting the stock steering and going with scx style front mount servo and linkage, gpm alum spur, great plane gd-600 gear reduction with a tekin 35t, a lot of dremel work! Its everything i want from it now.


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[jim_w]

Let's see some pics of the steering mod!

[jim_w]

BTW..looks awesome!

[Reaxion911]

Upon request
This is the third cc01 i have done this to and it works awesome! Have to flip the steering knuckles around and change the lower shock eyes the standard ball to accept 3mm hardware,and mount to outside stock arm hole. Locate the shocks behind the arms and drill new holes at the top to prevent upper link interference with the spring. Getting the right bend in the font link is key. Trim the tub right back to the front of the gearbox and only bend as much as you have to to to get full lock Then built an alum plate to mount servo too and carve out some wheel well to fit the servo mounts and servo ears. Also you need to mount the plate as far back as possible without the servo horn hitting the gear box lid. I used a traxxas revo push rod for the main link to make setting toe easy and used the stock tamiya srvo link for the drag link with a custom bend. A spacer was needed between the main link and drag link at the knuckle. Helps to stiffen up the front suspension to eliminate bump steer. This mod eliminates ALL steering slop and is a much more permanent solution to the unacceptable stock setup. The plate also doubles as a forward mount for my 2200mah lipos. The battery is sandwiched tight between the body and plate.


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[Reaxion911]

One of the biggest benefits is being able to cut out the old steering and a pile of the front skid plate


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[Reaxion911]

Here is the soo super simple rear link location that increased the break over angle and virtually eliminated hang ups on the rear links the nuts ended up on the bottom and used button head screws so the stock batt location can still be used for running standard nimh packs on edge behind the motor. Totally free!


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[Reaxion911]

End result for under belly clearance is just perfect. Other than the rear main gear cover its nearly smooth


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[Reaxion911]

Here is some pics of the great planes gd-600($16) gear reduction unit installed. The bottom must be shaved down on the bottom of the unit and the gearbox cover has to be cut flush with the out side of the motor mount bulk head. I run the 20t main tamiya gear and the gear reduction uses standard 48 pitch pinions than can be switched without removing the main gear cover ranging from 12tooth to 24tooth making gear tuning and motor swaps a peice of cake. Im running 24 tooth pinion with the 35 turn for a slow jog speed and would recommend the 17t pinion included with the gear reduction with the stock motor.
Also you can see in the pics drainage holes i drilled in the chassis and a small dole drilled through the bulk head for running my servo wire down the tub channel


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[Reaxion911]

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[redneckracerx]

Is this the gru? Forgive me as I dont mess with planes, but, how do you mount this to the CC-01 motor mount?

Also, could you post a picture with the battery in it?

[Reaxion911]

A little update! Stripped the body back down to plastic and re paint, alum links and gpm shock relocation brackets


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[HCCrawler]

Hi: Can you post pics of the reduction unit shaved down? I looks a great deal better than the HPI unit. Thanks

[Reaxion911]

I would have to take it out to take pics sorry. As soon as you match it up to the motor mount plate its very clear. I also have to advise that the shaft has to be turned down 1mm to fit pinion. I used a cutoff disc on dremel and spun the motor with the esc at the same time. Worked great


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[Reaxion911]

Little shakedown run today!


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[0rion]

Thanks for the picture of your steering link mod... and you rig is sick!!!