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Thread: CC-01 Unimog Build

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Old 02-13-2016, 05:14 PM   #1
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Default CC-01 Unimog Build

I started assembling the Unimog today....Still waiting for a bunch of upgraded parts (GPM steering, upper suspension link, steering links) but had the bearings so figured I would get started.

I just finished the rear axle assembly. Since I had read about other people having issues with the side to side play of the differential, I paid attention to it.

After assembling to the iunstructions, there was about 5 or 6 mm of side to side motion of the diff. Enough that the side opposite the gear would actually rub the housing. I had an extra 11x5x4 bearing on hand so I tried filling the space with that. It helped a lot, but still allowed more movement than I thought wise. The pinion/ring gear mesh should be close without a lot of slop.

I took a 4mm ID flat washer, drilled out the center to 5mm for an additional shim. With the bearing and shim stacked behind the diff, there is less than a mm of play (so it is just the right amount of loose) but all unnecessary slack is out of the diff housing.

The more consistent mesh of the pinion and ring gear will help the axle to live longer, also be quieter and wear evenly.

Pictures are out of order, but easy to figure out.,
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Old 02-14-2016, 07:46 AM   #2
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

That's an awful lot of play. Curious as to what's going on there - I have to say I've been running XC/CC's in some form or anther since the early 90's and have never had a rear axle fail, shimmed or not.

That's one way to do it for sure. I shim all mine now as well. 2 of the stock bearings drop right in.
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:33 AM   #3
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

I used a roller bearing, but the other bearings would of done as well...But there is definitely a design flaw in the diff....the diff has too much play in the stock configuration.....The axles have a bit of axial play too....I may work on getting that tightened up a little.

Not expecting a model to have perfect machining/spacing....but that diff was a little lacking....
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Old 03-05-2016, 11:37 AM   #4
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Made a bit of progress on the build after my GPM parts came in.

The front suspension has an adjustable upper link (GPM), the aluminum lower links, aluminum C-Hubs and Knuckles - All GPM.

I also have GPM links for the steering and the GPM steering bell crank upgrade.

The GPM steering bell crank is perfect...no play (well tightened and loctited crank arms) that came with allen head panhead screws. After assembly, there is far less play in the system. Howver, play in the suspension leaves a small amount of wobble. I am pleased with the result.

I also added Tamiya Steel CVD front shafts.

I put a RC4WD 80T brushed motor with a Quicrun 1060 ESC. The 80t really slows the truck down to a reasonable level. Maybe a little slow, but seems right. I may add a 3S lipo, and the speed will be as much as I need. Right now, I am using a 3000 Mah NiMh.

I also am using a Hitec HS-646WP waterproof high torque servo.

With the GPM steering and links, and no Servo saver (2.6mm screw is too short, ordered longer ones), the endpoints on the transmitter needed to be adjusted. That servo really twists the chassis when it hits the steering stops.

What remains mostly is painting. I have the body masked, but I can't paint indoors and outside has remained below freezing....A warm weekend should get me to finish the body.

I have plans to do some more body work. I have scale diamond plate from RC4WD to mod the load bed, and will see if I can't make a stake body upgrade for it.

I'll have pictures later....I get so engrossed building I forget to take pictures.

I will say that Tower Hobbies really is helping my wallet reduce weight.
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Old 03-05-2016, 07:36 PM   #5
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Sounds like your making good progress, I'm working on a 2nd CC-01 as well, it's actually a Unimog too, but I ordered the Tamiya Jeep Wrangler body for it today.
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:58 PM   #6
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

I am working on the stickers...tedious...but after I am done, I won't want to damage all my work....a Blackfoot body fits and I have a pretty battered old one....I think that will be my basher body.....I'll still run the unimog, but carefully.....

Been running the chassis without body....I'll really like the 80t motor and 3s lip compo....fast enough but still a lot of low speed control....

Stock tires are like metal roller skate wheels....I'll need to improve them....and stock rear link get caught on rocks easily...this Unimog will be close to the cost of the 1:1 version ;)
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:44 PM   #7
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Almost done with stickers, and decided to lock the front diff. I used the extra spider gear from the rear diff...I wasn't too happy as the diff was slightly wider from the extra gear and a tight fit. In reassembling, I replaced ther sheet metal screws with 3mm machine button heads... I accidentally used a too long one on the screw below the spur gear. The screw went right through the gear. So I ordered a parts G bag for it from RPP Hobby. That was Tuesday...I received it this afternoon...WOW!...Replaced the gear. Well it turns out the rear diff lock pieces are part of the G-Parts, so I removed all the spider gears and used the rear locker pieces on the front. They fit perfectly....the diff fits perfectly now, no tightness between the bearings.

Almost ready to run...

I owe this site some pics of the build, and I will get to them...been a little busy for pics.... but I will get some shots.

Learned a lot on this build, especially painting and trimming Polycarbonate...was my first one.

Next one will be better...
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Old 04-02-2016, 10:41 AM   #8
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Replaced the rock hard stock tires with some cheapos from e-bay.





For $9.99 and free shipping, I figured there is not a lot to lose...

They included the chrome wheels....They are softer than stock, about the same diameter, have foam inside and are not glued. A quick test allowed the mog to climb a step that the old tires just slipped on, so an improvement. I have nothing to compare to at this point, but it was a real improvement.

I also changed to aluminum links for the rear....I didn't like the bending at the shock mount...The links limit the travel about the same as stock, I may need to remount them with a short spacer. The long link strikes the body at full compression. The shock limit extension, but even without the shock the travel is about the same....A little disappointed in that, as I was going to add longer shocks...but I'll wait on that until I have the linkage better suited for longer travel.



Hopefully I'll have a nice day soon and get some Pics of the Mog....Raining right now...
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:59 PM   #9
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I decided to change the bed of the Unimog, I have liked all the flat bed mods, but I wanted something a little more. I like those that kept the sides (sorta pickup truck like), but the 1:1 mog has hinged sides. After thinking about it for a few days, I think I have a plan.



I am going to build an internal frame of 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/16 aluminum angle. Then just cut the top off the bed. I have RC4WD scale aluminum diamond plate for the lower bed. I believe I have a way of hinging the sides. My original plan was to use a piano hinge (small one) but the cost was a little out of line, about $30 dollars for a pair of 15 inch long hinges. I was still perusing the net and found someone made a piano hinge out of small copper hinges. They just staggered them. Sounded cheaper and easier than the expensive stuff, or the build it yourself photo etched type. I started looking around and found the ideal hinge on Ali express. $1.30 for 20 hinges (That's total cost shipped).



The only downside is the 2-3 week shipping time from China.

I did go to my LHS today. I decided it was worth a little extra. Haven't been to it in about 9 years, but I wasn't active either. No cars in the place. Only 2 aircraft radio's, no ground stuff. Very little in trains (another expensive hobby, BTW), Not too much of anything. Since the model aircraft use hinges for the control surfaces, I thought they might have something I could use...Nope. Except for a nice selection of K&S metal stuff, they really had a poor selection, and no specialties, as they had little of anything. Even their paint rack was very sparse. Not sure how they even stay in business. I need to find another hobby shop with more crafty stuff. So back to online shopping.

I will be taking pictures and documenting this creation.... Also, should be able to take pics of my build as the weather is promising and I will actually be home.
so stay tuned for pics and stuff.

BTW, my $10 for 4 wheels and tires was the best money spent. The truck was climbing rocks in my yard that the stock tires just slipped on....Hard to find 4 tires with foam mounted on chrome (plastic) wheel for that little money. Really was a good value for my cheap side....

While my build isn;t perfect, I really am enjoying modding it. Going to need magnet mounts, no more posts and clips.
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:03 PM   #10
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

As promised, some pics.

First, my "Fleet"



Except for the Mog (yet), my fleet is well used, bashed, banged, beat up...They all run well, they all are fun.

The Clod Buster, Blackfoot, and Mog are all built from kit by me. The others were acquisitions in various states of disrepair. I worked on all of them to get them in the condition they are. Like my real cars, they don't look pretty but are sound mechanically.

The Mog is my first real scale vehicle and I am really enjoying it.

Most of the build and mods are the usual GPM stuff, and I didn't really take pics of it. But a couple of things are my own creation.

I am using a 3S lipo that is shorter and thicker than a stick pack. So I changed the battery box a little to hold it. Some foam to hold the battery in place, and a hinged tops with a clip to hold it down to make battery removal easier.

Clip is just below the yellow XT60 connector, kind of hard to make out:



Makes more sense when opened:



I used a section of piano hinge.


I am using a CC BEC, a heat sink and fan on the motor, a Hobbywing 860 ESC and a Hitec waterproof, hi torque servo.



The Tires, mentioned in an earlier post, were $10 for 4 wheels and tires (with foams). I figured they could not be worse than stock. Well, they are much better than stock, about the same diameter, but much softer and grippier. There is a steep rock outcrop on the side of my house, and not even the Clod Buster can get up it. The stock Unimog tires just spun. The cheapo tires from e-bay allows the Mog to climp up and down with ease.

Going up:


Going Down:



It's a still, but the mog did go up and down all on its own.

This is my first Scale model, and I am really enjoying it. I have been looking at the Gmade Sawback as maybe my next build. Digging the leaf springs and realistic frame.

I am surprised how well the CC01 chassis is doing. I have the front and rear diffs locked (using the tamiya plastic locker insert. It does reduce the turning, but I think I can help by adjusting the stops. The GPM aluminum C-Hubs use a spacer and screw, so they will be adjusted soon....

Very happy so far.
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:22 PM   #11
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

I've started working on the load bed. I want a lowered load bed, plus I am going to try to hinge the sides and make them drop down like the 1 to 1.

Going to take some time.

SO first, I need a frame at the lower height to support the bed.

I hit up my local home depot for some aluminum angle and some flat stock.

I am starting with a rectangular frame. So, so 1x1x 1/8 angle for corner braces and 3/8x3/8x1/16 angle for the frame of the platform.

Raw material:



I cut the thick angle into 3/8 wide pieces to use for the corners. I am using the 1/8 thick so I can thread it and not need nuts.



Then a lot of careful measurement to make sure it is even and square, and them tighten it all up...



Spent about 3 hours on this so far. Lot's of cutting (Hack saw), Grinding and drilling. I only have hand tools for all this (drills are hand tools to me).

So here's the relative size to the load bed (Which will be cut out later).




That's all for now. Next will be 3 more cross beams to support the diamond tread (RC4WD Scale Aluminum Diamond Tread).

I am also waiting for hinges from China. I am not attempting the drop sides until I have more parts in and can do some mock ups.

I am also trying to figure out how to make or adapt some small latches for the sides. I actually intend to use small magnets to hold them closed, so the latches need looks more than function, and some small chains to support the rear tailgate in the flat position.

To me, this modding is as much fun, or more, as crawling with the truck.

Will update as progress is made.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:39 AM   #12
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Sub'd. Nice work. I'm considering getting a used fj cc01 w/o radio or battery for $100 from a local if he drives through town sometime.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:27 PM   #13
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Sounds like a decent deal.

I am also thinking of another build, but would like to try something different, like a Bruiser or such...Need to save up for them...bad enough I have so much $$ in my CC-01. This hobby really nickels and dimes, er, tens and twenties you to death.
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:26 AM   #14
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chumley54 View Post
This hobby really nickels and dimes, er, tens and twenties you to death.
That it does....

Mog is coming along well! Better tires is the single best mod that can be made.

Nice collection too!
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:59 AM   #15
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Started in 1989...Blackfoot then Clod Buster. They were put aside for about 20 years. Too many hobbies to support at once. My trains have been dormant for a while now. Can't afford to indulge myself in all of them at the same time. Not just the $$, but also the time.

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Old 04-30-2016, 02:27 PM   #16
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Hinges came in today. They looked tiny in the store web site, but in real life they look even small. Very happy with the scale size. Worried that my fat thumbs won't be able to work with them...



I need to measure the hinge pin, so I can get some small brass rod to make a common hinge, make it like a piano hinge.

This seems to be exactly the size I need for this endeavor.

Going to make the hinges and figure an installation before I cut the bed up for the drop sides.

I need to get a bunch of tiny screws and nuts. I may even try CA glue...it might work better....

Any ideas are welcome....
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:33 PM   #17
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Added this: New Mini 8" Brake/Shear

To my tool repertoire.

Will be using it to form the aluminum bed parts. Hopefully arrives this week, or beginning of next.
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:02 AM   #18
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Commited to the build. I cut out the load bed to start modding it. "



I Am using a section of the cut out bed for the cab wall.

I found I needed to redo the frame, and have that done, but no pics yet.

No turning back once the body is cut.

I may get another body and do a better paint job, leave it stock for show....

Maybe use a different model....The Bronco sure is looking nice too.
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:01 PM   #19
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Default Re: CC-01 Unimog Build

Did some more work on the bed.

Redesigned slightly, a little longer, with a "shelf off the back to clear the tail lights.



A bulkhead on the front. Will stick a piece of the old bed on this to match the color of the cab:




And I cut the Diamond Plate to width for the bed, about an inch in the front will roll up onto the bulkhead:



The fun starts after this. Figuring how to mount to the chassis (using magnetic mounts), getting hinges and the sides cut for the drop side. But the foundation is close to being ready.

Last edited by Chumley54; 05-16-2016 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:34 PM   #20
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Made more progress...cut more lexan... Bought cheap taps from China, broke cheap taps from China, ordered more cheap taps from China.

So I decided to not use the lexan sides of the bed. I am going to paint the aluminum green to match. Too much fiddly stuff to make the green sides work and look well.

So,

I mounted the back of the bed frame on a piano hinge and bolted it to the chassis. I screwed the front of the body (at the rear window) to an upright on the bed. Now the body swings up on a hinge in the back. I'll have more pictures of that later. However, that decision and a few small others caused me to drop reusing the plastic sides, and just stick to the aluminum.

So the frame without the bed looks like this:




Here's with the floor of the bed just sitting in place, left dropside up. :




Here's the same view, dropside lowered.



You can see the round magnets glued in place. They keep the gate up. Will need to find some scale chain for the tailgate though. It too will use magnets to keep upright, but a chain for laying flat and fully dropped.

The tailgate can be seen on the ground behind it. My taps are broken, so I couldn't mount it yet. Those M1.4 taps are fragile. Even better ones are fragile. I broke 6 carbide drills for the small holes. Too brittle. Found a good HSS twist drill in my dremel kit that was perfect. Have new taps coming, and will resume when the taps come in.

I am happy the doll house hinges worked. A small piano hinge was too much $$ and building my own hinge wasn't in the cards yet. I thought about how I'd like the sides to work, and have some fresh ideas on a better hinge setup.

I will save that work for another dreary winter....For now, I 'd like to get this finished enough to play with again.

Will add more pics later as I make more progress....

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