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Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Netherlands
Posts: 114
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Hi Guys, I recently got back into RC with a CC-01. I got a GPM Steering kit, GPM 4-link set and GPM aluminium servo horn. And I bought some aluminium 1.9 beadlocks and 90mm tyres. Now I run into a few issues. First of all, the steering, I barely have a turning radius with it. The knuckles hit the hubs pretty fast. Next is the battery, I have a few standard 2s hardcase packs, according to the measurements before ordering and those of the CC-01 battery tray I found they should fit after squaring out the battery tray of the CC-01. I did that, but the lipo's are still only a hair too big to fit, what else can I do to make them fit? I found that if I do not place the electronics tray in the car and remove the part of the chassis where you normally slide the battery under to mount it in the chassis, I can probably fit my lipo's with some velcro or something. But won't that give too much flex to the chassis? |
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![]() | #2 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 133
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I changed my electronics mounting plate to accommodate a 3S 3000 mah battery Hard to make out, but I put a piano hinge on a flat plate and raised it about 1/2 inch. Opened plate: ![]() PLate from top of unit: ![]() I drilled a hole in a screw that sticks through the plate and used a body clip to hold it closed. Some soft foam to cushion the battery. If your battery is too long, a different approach is needed. My battery was short but thick. Hope this helps.. |
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![]() | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Netherlands
Posts: 114
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Thanks, it does give some nice help But indeed my battery is too long. It's a standard 5000mah 2s squared hardcase. I'll try to take some photo's tonight to show what I mean ![]() |
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![]() | #4 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Netherlands
Posts: 114
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Totally forgot this thread... But I got the battery to fit in, dremeled out the chassis a bit more, removed the electronics plate and placed the ESC somewhere else ![]() Glued 96mm Boom Racing tires on the stock wheels, Car runs great now, except there is still a ton of slop in the steering... The rod-ends of the links have a lot of slop, and the knuckle/c-hub have a lot of play in them, so I have to find a way to reduce that. And remove the brick and create a skidplate in place for it some time |
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 428
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if you buy cvd axles and cut some plastic you and get a better turning radius.. but not recommended with the Dog bones..
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![]() | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Netherlands
Posts: 114
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Thanks for the tip! Ordered a better ESC and 55t motor first as stock on 2s is just way too fast. Now I first want to minimize the steering slop as much as possible before buying CVD's ![]() |
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Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2010 Location: ny
Posts: 466
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Get the aluminum steering assembly and that will get rid of the slop Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Netherlands
Posts: 114
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![]() | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2010 Location: ny
Posts: 466
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I dunno then ... I'm new to the cc01 chassis I have a bronco and a unimog and haven't ran either one lol ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Shelby
Posts: 163
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First off if you havent already, cut the nipples off the chubs. This will give a little more steering angle and still be within range of the dbones. As far as slop goes you can try to shim here and there but i just plan on going with full alu up front and hope for the best lol.
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![]() | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Netherlands
Posts: 114
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yeah, doing the same right now... Ordered a lot of alu front steering parts haha |
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