Taking the plunge into the CC-01 world

[OSRC]

Originally Posted by andymac0035

I was going to go with the axial bead locks, but was told the screw heads would hit the C-hubs.

Originally Posted by Dirt Runner

Like these? f so, I don't have any issues hitting the hubs.

I just went down in the shop and mocked it up to be sure I wasn't full of it (I hate giving bad info!!) The rear ring hits the knuckle screws. I've gotten around it by using different knuckles in the past.

Dirt Runner, how did you mount yours up if you don't mind me asking?

On a side note, I've bought a bunch of wheels from Alientac. Never had any problems.

[Dirt Runner]

Originally Posted by OSRC

I just went down in the shop and mocked it up to be sure I wasn't full of it (I hate giving bad info!!) The rear ring hits the knuckle screws. I've gotten around it by using different knuckles in the past.

Dirt Runner, how did you mount yours up if you don't mind me asking?

On a side note, I've bought a bunch of wheels from Alientac. Never had any problems.

I actually want to apologize. I just inspected and looks like mine has rubbed against the c hub screw but nothing that affect performance. I have some slightly wider hexes I am putting on as we speak. Sorry about the misinformation guys. That explains the ocassinal tap I sometimes hear.

Here is a pic of what I found

[SFC K]

Just add to the confusion on the Axial bead locks, I have successfully mounted them with out them rubbing. You need to use a ring on the inside that is a thin circle mount versus the one that has the nubs at each hole that stick out towards the center. I think I used MTHead rings when I had them mounted but that was a few years ago now.

Originally Posted by alexleblanc

I ran an 80t motor for a while and I really lacked power, I've since put a 3:1 GRU with a 27t motor and it's night and day. It's not much faster but boy does it help overcome the Cc01 tall gearing when crawling.

I love my HPI GRU'd CC-01. Its not the best for trail running where you are walking for long distances as it can't keep up, but it is a work horse and now even more so since I locked the front diff.

[andymac0035]

Interesting about all the axial bead lock stuff. Glad I hesitated on them, although I think what I originally ordered was worse.... LOL.
Glad to hear that the Alientac stuff is good! I should have my Kit tomorrow, and hopefully the new wheels by weeks end.

[pedemaster-rc]

Andy let me know what you think about it. I am thinking of getting one myself

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[BigSki]

If the 80T motor doesn't suit your tastes, the 4:1 planetary GRU from rc4wd coupled to a 35T makes for a good combo. That's what I used when I built one of these. My old CC01 was my favorite small size rig, it was just so much fun to drive around because you had to think about every line that you take.

[andymac0035]

Pede- I will be sure and post up once I get it built and running, although the way work and home is going that may take a little longer than I'd like....

I keep hearing so many good things about using a GRU, we'll see, but I'm hoping I like the 80T motor.

Oh... my stuff all got here! Happy to say that the wheels turned out to be the high-mass variety.

[andymac0035]

Been a little bit as I've been busy with work and chores at home. Started on the CC-01 this week and it's been slow but fun. I'm taking my time as this is my first CC-01 and also my wife is helping/learning as we go.

Locking the front diff took me longer than I planned. Glad I read around a little before starting.... and glad I saw OSRC's post about taking a dremel to the back of the added extra gears. Initially I thought they just dropped in, but found that not to be the case. Hit the extra gears with the dremel and was able to get one on there just fine, but I wanted all three (six) gears in there (I wanted it to be balanced). After dremeling the living crap out of the backs of the 3 added gears, I got it all to drop in there.

Then the hot racing steering went in (such a great piece!), then went with the traxxas ball ends and shaved the stops off the C-hubs. I added some extra o-rings I made by cutting some tubing to better hold the dog bones. Took a few tried to get the right thickness, but happy with the result. My CVD's have not showed up yet, so I'll run the bones and see how they do before switching.

Tomorrow we'll be tackling the rear end, and we'll see how much shimming the rear axle needs.

[Dirt Runner]

I love seeing the kits come together. I also have the hot racing steering and used traxxas ball ends and it's much tighter. I used some loctite on the threads just make sure you don't get it on the plastic.

Keep us posted on your progress.

I saw some cc01 videos, Matteo's specifically and he drilled out 2 of the holes to 1.5 mm from the disc from the inside for the shock and the bounce looks much more natural. I am doing thus to mine.

[OSRC]

Originally Posted by andymac0035

Hit the extra gears with the dremel and was able to get one on there just fine, but I wanted all three (six) gears in there (I wanted it to be balanced).

Not to mention the extra 2 gears make it stronger and adds a touch more weight down low. Every little bit helps!

[andymac0035]

Originally Posted by Dirt Runner

I love seeing the kits come together. I also have the hot racing steering and used traxxas ball ends and it's much tighter. I used some loctite on the threads just make sure you don't get it on the plastic.

Keep us posted on your progress.

I saw some cc01 videos, Matteo's specifically and he drilled out 2 of the holes to 1.5 mm from the disc from the inside for the shock and the bounce looks much more natural. I am doing thus to mine.

Got a link to that video?

I really should have taken pics, but I was wanting to get moving along on the build.

As for loctite, yup using it on all screws into metal. As for plastic, I use clear fingernail polish on screws into plastic if they start backing out.
Sounds odd, but it works. Any color works actually.... I just don't want to have to explain having pink-with-glitter nail polish in my pit-box.. LOL

[Dirt Runner]

Originally Posted by andymac0035

Got a link to that video?

I really should have taken pics, but I was wanting to get moving along on the build.

As for loctite, yup using it on all screws into metal. As for plastic, I use clear fingernail polish on screws into plastic if they start backing out.
Sounds odd, but it works. Any color works actually.... I just don't want to have to explain having pink-with-glitter nail polish in my pit-box.. LOL

This is the link that he shows the mod but now that I remember I think the stock shafts are all metal. At 1:20 it shows where he drills.
https://youtu.be/T6ZGqpP5q7M

This one shows one of his other cc01's driving with the mod.
https://youtu.be/9_bEqlg-1VE

[andymac0035]

Built the shocks yesterday and yes, they are all metal. Looking at the fit inside the shock body (not that tight) I decided just to leave them be.
One thing I did do was leave the collars off and use a pre-load clip about half as thick in an attempt to soften things up (front only, nothing added to the rear).

Then I went to tackle making my 6000mah 2S lipos fit. This did not go as planned. I had invisioned putting it between the front shock towers, angled up towards the back to clear the steering. This idea just did not work in any practical fashion, as it would require shorties, and I don't have any of those type. So then I moved on to making the stock location work. Cutting the side entry hole square was not enough. These lipo's are on the large side for 2S hard cases, and they are getting old and a bit swollen, but they are 80C and have been great for me. Anyways, the case was like 1/16" too wide to drop all the way into the stock location.

What I should have done at this point was just remove the part where the stock battery retainer clips to, and lined the bottom of the battery area with foam to raise it up just enough for the battery to sit flat, and use spacers to raise the electronics tray. So of course, I went out of my way to NOT see the obvious easy way to do things, and proceeded to get the dremel out and cut away at things in the hope to keep that little piece of plastic that runs across the top of the battery opening. Needless to say.... I failed. Before it was all said and done I had removed the vertical piece (front of battery tray) that runs behind the motor. After hacking all that out and still not being able to save that other piece I was none to happy with myself.

The good news was that removing that (piece behind the motor) gave the room to put the battery all the way down in there and also slightly more forward, so that should help my COG. I still had to raise the electronics try a little, but I like having a big battery in there for the long trail runs I like to do.

I'll try and take some pics befoe I get going today. I have to make some chassis braces up now, but I'm pretty sure I got that figured out.

[OSRC]

6000 mah? Holy cow, how long are your trail runs?? I go nearly 2 hours on a 2200 pack....

I was working on one of mine today....dying to get it out on the trail!

[andymac0035]

Originally Posted by OSRC

6000 mah? Holy cow, how long are your trail runs?? I go nearly 2 hours on a 2200 pack....

I was working on one of mine today....dying to get it out on the trail!

I tend to spend the better part of the day out there. We usually pick a trail (usually a mountain trail) and start around 11-ish and go till dusk, or if it's a state park, till they toss us to close the gates.. LOL

I'm usually running most of that time and pushing it hard. Of course this is with a 27T motor in an SCX10, I don't know what to expect from an 80T in the CC-01.... but I tend to have to do at least one battery change with the SCX10 and 27T.

Pics to follow... it's alive!

[andymac0035]

The pile of goodies I started with:





After dremeling the heck out of the battery tray:





The chassis brace (a turnbuckle) I used to re-enforce the chassis after all the dremeling.





Notice the peice of hard foam under the servo. I've heard the servo can use some help as it flexes sometimes. This foam spacer has the servo sitting squarely on the chassis instead of being suspended.





So now I have to make a battery holder somehow. This is a large tamiya ball stud and a standard battery strap buckle pops onto it perfectly.





I shortened the strap by folding (and stapling) a section of it, and then wrapped it around my new chassis brace and it worked really nice.





For electronics, we have the RC4WD 80T motor, an SCT sidewinder programmed for brushed motor and crawling, and that's a 200oz servo like I use in my clodbusters.





Even after cutting the stops of the c-hubs I had to dial back my steering servo. I'll probably dremel a little more in time, but I think this is a good start. This is limiting travel to right before the steering binds/hits the c-hub.






Had this Hummer body, gonna' use that at least for now (till I can trim and paint the bronco.

[andymac0035]

So... wheel weights.... My bead locks are heavy, but I have that other set of losi tires and they are a lil' messed up bead-wise and won't fit on any bead locks I have.
I have several sets of wheels I can glue them to though. So since these are to be glued and hopefully never taken off again.... would it be better to not wrap lead inside these?

I've been reading about how you guys put all kinds of lead inside the chassis, so it has me thinking I could skip the wheel weight (at least on this set of tires).

Thoughts?

[andymac0035]

So I had decided to put the losi claw tires the stock wheels. Since the bead channel looks a bit crowded for adding lead, I decided to glue things up and add 5 pieces of lead in the inside/backside of the wheels. I'd done this on my SCX10 and thought it would work great for this too (would have added 1.24 oz per wheel). Well I forgot all about not having a lot of space to play with due to the knuckle screws.... So I did one wheel up today and found out the hard way that I should have added the wieght on the inside... which now I can't do as they are all glued on. I like that these tires are the stock size though. They work well with the hummer body. The rock creepers are kinda' big and I will have to hack the wheel openings some if I want to use those. Be interesting to see how they fit when I get the bronco body done.

So now I will just concentrate on all the little spots in the chassis where I can add it. Been looking at the brick a lot, debating if I want to cut it, or use it as a spot to fill full of lead. I have a plastic bumper/skid off of an SC10 that fits really nice in front of the brick, or could be used in place of the brick if I decide to chop it.

[OSRC]

There's all kinds on places to hide it. In/behind the brick, in the "chassis rails," even inside the 2 piece arms. In the wheels works too, though I try not to add too much there. Harder on the cvd's/dogbones.

The CC chassis does much better with a little bit of weight. I run lead somewhere in all of mine.

[andymac0035]

So I finally got it out for it's maiden voyage. I live in the middle of "R/C heaven" for my area. I live next door to the local R/C race track and the owner has been building a crawling course out back.... and the snow has melted away from it...

I snapped a few pics, which I will try and put up later tonight. I got to say, it goes pretty good. Steering is waaay better than I expected. I trimmed the hubs a little and now I pretty much have as much as I can get out of the stock parts. The arm that holds the tie rod is bottomed out against the a-arm at full lock.... if I cut into that I could actually go more on my trim. As it is now, it feels about the same as my SCX10, which has stock steering other than metal links.... so I'd say that hot racing steering set was money well spent. I put some lead inside the brick and that helped a lot. Climb angle is really good, not as good as my SCX10, but not too far off either. Break-over angle sucks though....

Speaking of the brick....... that's gotta' go. I just have to decide how far I want to take things.
Also need to work on a belly-skid, as that got hung up a lot too.

The 80T motor is pretty darn slow, I think this may end up needing to run on 3S to have a balance of speed and power. Right now it's slower than my SCX10 (AE5/27t), but some times needs some grunt and also speed to "pop" up over things. Not really wanting to mess with a GRU, I think I'd put the 550 drill motor I had in my wraith in there first, but for now, want to make this 80T work.