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Thread: CC01 Pajero Rally!

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Old 06-27-2020, 07:14 PM   #1
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Default CC01 Pajero Rally!

I waited for this one quite a while as it got caught up in customs. I had already bought all my hop-up stuff and been impatiently waiting to get going on this, and now I'm finally there.



The build started the usual way, although I cheated and just bought an extra locker set for the front diff. On the rear diff I used the included locker and I think tamiya changed something because there was not much play in the rear diff when I put it all together. There were 2 plastic shims used near the outer bearings, which I swapped for some 5x8 bushings (since I put all bearings in the kit) and with a shim/washer added to those, it was all pretty tight. I remember doing the bushing/shim mod (the one just to one side of the diff) last build like shown on the youtube vid from the "LED wheel-guy, but it wasn't needed this time.


The 1st brick-mod I ever did I got lucky (free-hand) (with a back saw) but this one wasn't going straight so I had to get a heavy file out and shaped it the hard way. Then I cut, bent, and shaped this team durango skid to fit. That part came out better this go around I think.









Then in went the hot racing steering kit. I made sure I thread-locked the screws even using thread locker in the boss areas for the upper/lower pieces as that worked for me last time around to get rid of all the play in that spot. I did use the stock tamiya connectors, but I'm sure I'll change those out eventually. I trimmed the inside of the tray/skid to clear things as the linkage was hitting.



Steering stops ground down and tamiya CVD's. Also used those flat-topped king pin screws as I planned on using axial bead locks on this.






Added some reinforcement for the body with hard foam, as I'm sure it will take some hits.





Then came the part I struggled with to figure out. I planned on using 3S shorty soft case lipo's and they were a little tight in the stock tray because of their wires coming out the corner. I ended up going for the front location and made this tray out of an axial wraith battery tray. I shaved everything off the sides and cut it a little more than in half. I made some stand-offs for mounting it up front using the stock countersunk holes in the tray. That rested pretty good between the wheel wells. Then I drilled in from the side and into the sides of the tray and used some long grub screws to secure the other end of the tray. These were just right to thread through the plastic of the chassis and the tray but not poke through. Then a long strap goes under and around length ways and holds the battery to it. There is a piece of foam in the tray to make sure the front screw heads that stick up a hair don't wear into the battery.










And here it is all laid out. ESC is from my CMX Bronco, servo is a stock SCX10 tactic, motor is an "old-I-don't-how many-turns-but-it's-slow" motor I had handy.
I may just take the electronics plate out of there and mount stuff in the stock battery tray, but I was using the stock antenna mount and didn't want to change it.......


Last edited by andymac0035; 06-29-2020 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 06-27-2020, 07:41 PM   #2
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Default Re: CC01 Pajero Rally!

......and here it is, getting ready for it's first scuff on the trail.
Wheels are axial and I sanded the outer rings as I was going for the old-school trim-ring look. I think the black wheel and the chrome wheel nut sets it off pretty good.







I liked most of the Tamiya stickers/graphics, but the big splash stripes on the sides just were not working out, but I found a spot for one of them on the roof.







Tires are some RC4WD mud slingers, but I had to trim them (and the fenders) to make it all fit. They worked pretty well. There's 1.5oz of lead in each wheel and that's the only added weight on the truck. Truck weighs 4 lbs w/o battery. Weight and COG was very good. When it rolls/flips it tends to go back on it's wheels and is easy to self-right if it lands on it's side.

Oh wait... that is NOT the only weight added to the truck... there's a lead square stuffed inside each of the front lower A-arms....it's your fault OSRC.... I saw that on one of your builds and I had to do it! (I did it on the last one I built too)























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Old 06-27-2020, 10:12 PM   #3
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Old 06-28-2020, 02:38 PM   #4
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Motor was getting a bit hot and drag brake didn't seem to hold very well. I'm going to try and stuff a 550 drill motor I have in there as well as a SV2 esc and see what that does. I've been reading about GRU's again as I think that would solve a lot of problems and since my battery is up front cutting into the battery tray area is no big deal. I am concerned about some posts saying if you run a GRU at higher speeds for very long that they get really hot. I was looking at the RC4WD 3:1 and also the china 3:1 on ebay. The china one actually looks better to me as the pinion gear that goes inside it is a lot wider.
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Old 06-28-2020, 04:47 PM   #5
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Default Re: CC01 Pajero Rally!

Quote:
Originally Posted by andymac0035 View Post
Oh wait... that is NOT the only weight added to the truck... there's a lead square stuffed inside each of the front lower A-arms....it's your fault OSRC.... I saw that on one of your builds and I had to do it! (I did it on the last one I built too)
Ha! Great little trick. Very nice build, the battery tray is a pretty slick setup!
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:02 AM   #6
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Thanks! I was driving myself nuts trying to figure out a tray for up front. I searched for other builds doing something like this but didn't find any. Surely other's have done this and I just missed it.

I did a bunch of stuff to the CC01 today. I'll start with the little stuff first.

With as paper-thin as this body is, I figured I'd best take some shoe goo and drywall tape to the front and rear bumper areas.








One of the last things I did I thought was pretty clever. I cut a piece of hard foam to shape and glued it in place to cover up the stock battery hole.



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Old 06-29-2020, 12:21 AM   #7
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I started this one off by just moving the upper rear shock mounts to the LWB position to try and get them to not be so stiff as for some reason, when they sit for a minute, it's like they want to stick, but after you compress them a time or two they free-up. I never understood that, as I made darn sure to get oil all in the o-rings when I built them. The fronts are fine, but the rears always stick initially.

Anyways, this wasn't really the solution (it was better though), so I was looking through my shock-collection and found a set from an old arrma raider 1/10 buggy I used to have. The fronts were a little linger when extended, but the same as the CC01 shocks under full compression, and bonus, the springs on these are softer.








I mocked one up and was impressed:









Happy with what I was seeing I did the other side, and after some shimming on the upper mount it was done. Pics are with a battery in place for proper stance.






There's a little bit of rake to the stance, but if it drives my too crazy I'll just go up a post hole on the front/body. I thought this was a clever way to show before/after:






I didn't measure stock articulation before I got going on this, but looking at yesterdays pics I'd say it's a pretty good improvement and I can't wait to try it out!









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Old 06-29-2020, 12:38 AM   #8
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......and now for the reason I started modding on my truck in the first place today! It's basically the age-old idea of replacing a small-block with a big-block. I pulled the mystery-turn 540 slow motor out of there and started making room for a 550-sized drill motor I've been hanging on to. It's another mystery-turn motor, but I used to run it in a wraith on 3S and I know it's slow and has good torque. It was close, but all I needed to do was take a small part of the battery wall out and skim a little bit of material away with a dremel.






This motor had a flux ring on it, and I really wanted to keep it, but I got some bad gear-mesh noises when I tried it with it in place. Once I removed it everything fit right and sounded normal. It's soo neat seeing that 550 fit in there. ESC is a sidewinder SCT (same as SV2) put in brushed/crawler mode. I ditched the electronics tray and I mounted it all in the stock battery tray and cleaned up my wires. Testing on the floor seems good, but the final word will be once I get it out on the trail.







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Old 06-29-2020, 07:26 AM   #9
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Default Re: CC01 Pajero Rally!

My Pajero Rally body cracked up front in that exact spot on the first run. Granted, it was a rally truck with a 3300kv BL system in it, but it didn't last long. Good move firming it up.
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Old 06-29-2020, 04:44 PM   #10
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My Pajero Rally body cracked up front in that exact spot on the first run. Granted, it was a rally truck with a 3300kv BL system in it, but it didn't last long. Good move firming it up.
I'm curious, since I still have another CC01 to build, and faster motor systems I can use, did your rally truck have open diffs? or locked?
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Old 07-01-2020, 07:49 AM   #11
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Open diffs. It was the low ride version so it had the 'jero rally body and those wide wheels. It was seriously unstable at speed...the short WB meant rollover city and the the vague steering didn't help. I could have tuned on it some more, but I never tried. I still have it, though it has a Mercedes CC02 body now and the stock silver can.
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Old 07-01-2020, 12:45 PM   #12
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Hmmm... that unstable huh? Well the kit in question I'm building next is the HiLux which is the LWB one, so I wonder if that will be any better? I have a 13.5 I could toss in there and also thought about tossing a 17.5 in with the stock tamiya esc.

As for this build here, has anyone else used a 550 sized motor like what I got here? If so, how was it?

I like that I didn't have to make the hole for the GRU, but I'm still willing to do it if that turns out to be the way to go.

Hopefully I can get some good run times in with it over the long weekend and evaluate the 550.
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