My LCC MOA - Dual ESC, BL 17.5T, 3S
 

I want to share with you my LCC set up.

ELECTRONICS:
ESC: 2X Tekin RS. With Hotwire. Timing:0, Profile: F&R 1
Motor: 2x Tekin Redline 17.5T Sensored Brushless Motor. Timing:0
TX/RX: Futaba 3PKS
Servo: FutabaS9157
BEC: CC BEC
Battery: 3S Lipo Hyperion VXG3

MECHANICAL:
Eritex MOA Upgrade. Gearing: Front 9t stock pinion, Rear 8t RC4wd pinion.
CKRC CVD
Rocksmith Billet Aluminum Steering Link
HB Rovers White. 3-stage insert

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030112.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030113.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030114.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030115.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030116.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030117.jpg
This is my first crawler and I would much appreciate your advice


The ESC tray:
Is made from the original Losi ESC tray mounted vertically in the location of the long frame brace.

The RX, BEC and Harness Tray:
I used the Losi Battery to hold the electronics. Mounted on top portion of the chassis. Not the best location but for now, this is temporary as I am working on moving this tray at the rear axle motor mount.

The Battery Tray:
Made from 2 long chassis brace taken out earlier, 1x short brace and plastic to hold the velcro and battery in place.

Connection:
Front Battery - powers Rear ESC, motor, BEC and Servo. Since this gets the heaviest load, my assumption was that the difference in the load will be compensated during DIG use. Once the RX tray is moved to the rear axle, then I can use bigger capacity batts and adds weight to the front.
Rear Battery - powers Front ESC and motor.

TX
3PKS ...I am following Harleys settings for DUAL ESC in the Electronics thread

That is a very nice setup, dual ESC's with the Futaba radio should give you lots of control.

Like I said in the other thread, get a battery that will allow you to run both ESC's together. The imbalance of the packs could cause some unpredictablility of the rig. Say you are diggind a lot with the front and you drain that pack further than the rear than your rear will feel overpowered. You could account for this with the 3PK but no reason to over complicate it.

Nice job "thumbsup"

Looks good I saw it run on Sunday under 101"thumbsup"
how heavy is the rig?

Yes, that was my MOA in its first taste of real world. I dont have the weigh but with 6 and 3 weights in each F and R wheels, it is stable when resting on side of wheels and wont tip over.

Power delivery is so smooth with sensored motor, lots of instant power, even heared comments from other racers thats its overpowered. I just did one course and left after that because it was family day and time was limited. I lost 3 out of 4 body clips trying to recover form out of bound, thats my next project.

Thanks.
I will use my 3 PKS in the meantime, and when budget permits, will upgrade to 4PK. After I moving the RX tray to the rear, then I think I will have a better choice of battery capacity.

If nothing else it will really get you used to how to fine tune your controls for awhile. "thumbsup"

It's funny how we can remove a huge transmission and still run out of space huh :lol:

I am also using also Futaba S9157 servo for steering and I want to move the servo mount to the rear holes of the motor mount. Can I remove the servo back cover so that I can trim portion opposite the motor mounting bolts head?

I just used a countersink and flat head bolts to do this. Just do a little at a time.

Do you mean countersunk the motor mount holes?

I tried trimming the buttonhead bolt to about 1mm thick, adjusted to the rear the servo mount and use washers in the servo ears. I may have to use double-side tape in the 1mm gap between the back cover of servo to help.

Shim the servo forward if you need to. Also, which set of mounting holes are you using? The ones farthest from the motor is what I use with a CS170 and I have .020" clearance between the servo and the motor mount screws;)

on the part that mounts to the axel, just take your time on doing it, the slot that goes up and down. I'll take a pict of it and shoot it out."thumbsup""thumbsup"

I used the farthest mounting holes initially then I got stuck with servo too forward. I moved now to the nearest mountiung holes to the motor. Pls see link:

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030118.jpg

In the spirit of continuous improvement, I recycled the original LOSI ESC and servo Tray and build this bulletproof RXtray.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030119.jpg

Its mounted perfectly to the Eritex motor mount. I have to acknowledge the quality of the MOA upgrade, its a very good basis for improving the LCC. What do you think of the result?
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030120.jpg

That definately looks rock solid... way to recycle!

Axelram, absolutely awesome radio mount"thumbsup"

Wow, have to agree completely! The Futaba RX's are not the smallest (yet) and that is a great place to put it!

What do mean "yet" :twisted:. I sure would like to see the newest line from Futaba. Now that you have me running Futaba in all my stuff, I will need something a little smaller for my next scale project "thumbsup".

I completely agree, awsome job on the RX holder. Looks great.

Thank you very much.

Here is how I build the battery tray from the 2X long chassis braces taken out earlier. Additional parts are: one short brace, plastic piece from packaging, middle post to position the battery either rear or front and the original Losi Velcro:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030123.jpg


The CC BEC installed under the battery tray. The lowest CG I can install this component:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030124.jpg


A 3s 1100maH Hyperion Lipo installed in the forward location of the battery tray.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030125.jpg

Learning a lot from this forum and from fellow crawlers in comps I participated, my LCC was completely transformed. From the base LCC with 17.5T BL, to dual BL MOA, to Chump chassis with high clearance links to the current Bettlejuice-based MOA. I though to share with you my set-up:

Photo 1http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030274.jpg


Photo 2
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030275.jpg

Photo 3
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030278.jpg

Details to follow. Thanks for viewing.

Awesome, been wondering about a BeetleJuice Losi MOA, it looks killer "thumbsup"

Whose High-Steer kit is that?

Its the Rocksmith Engineering Titanium Steering link with billet aluminum ends. Used Losi servo arm and raised servo servo mounts with 2 washers each. Then raised steering ends to the point I have hairline clearance between steering link and servo arm.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030276.jpg

Congrats on the rig!

Does it all fit well together with the MOA and LCC parts? Ive just gone MOA myself on my LCC and was curious about useing a different chassis, this looks the goods, happy with it so far?

What rear lower links are those?

Cheers

Does it work as good as it looks?

tbhwu, the above setup is no better than my Chump Chassis based LCC MOA with High Clearance front and rear lower links. I like the BJ V3 looks so I decided to give it a try.

The biggest challenge in my MOA setup in any chassis is my Brushless dual ESC set-up. There are so many wires and electronics in so small space. In my above setup, I focused in inserting the lipo battery in the space above the rear motor. Packaging the electronics worked well but because the motor soldering tab is sticking high, CG suffered. Furthermore, I used the stock LCC top links as my front top and bottom links. I overlooked the front link set-up and found out during my test run in a comp last Sunday that I lost a lot of front articulation.

I made major changes in the links and found out that it is better to insert the battery in the space above the front motor because my front axle is unclocked. I will post photos tomorrow. To give you an idea, the front Top and Bottom as well as rear top links are all stock LCC. The articulation and CG are much better now.

Thanks.
Using LCC stock bottom links lenght and ends, I did some trial and error in cutting the ends to meet the 2010 rules on WB. The top links are also the stock ones. I have now a lower CoG than previous set-up as my rear axle is now not aggresively clocked, just enough for the motor end to be in line with the bottom link.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030287.jpg


I also arranged the bottom link ends in the skid side so as to be as close as possible to the LCC thus giving me a very good articulation. I cut the stock LCC battery to hold the Lipo which is installed in the space above the front motor.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030286.jpg

I would much appreciate comments and suggestions. Thanks for viewing

I like how narrow the chassis is. As much as ive read about people experimenting with different links coupled with the losi axles, why would you mess with the lcc setup? Im guessing thats why it works better the way you have it setup now with the losi links? Already built to work i suppose?

Very cool rig

How are your shocks setup/tuned?

For those like us who upgraded to the MOA, the dilemma is the availability of chassis & link that is specific this set-up. A lot of experimentation, trial & error are your options. MOA motor mounted perpendicular to the axle makes links complicated.

I like this new setup because I was able to install my front HPI Firestorm shocks inverted and top mount inboard. This allows the steering to have maximum throw at full articulation and tires just touching the spring. No binding on the shock ends with the front top link mounted on top of the MOA motor bracket:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030288.jpg

The rear top link ends were mounted in the sides of the MOA motor bracket to allow rear axle clocking.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030290.jpg

My new setup, less the electronics. about half inch lower and rear axle is slightly clocked.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030292.jpg

Electronics that need to be organized in the very small space available. 2x Tekin RS, 2x Novak Transcaps, CC BEC and RX for my 3PK. I will make an aluminum plate to support the electronics.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/L1030291.jpg

does it still work after taking a swim in the river on sunday

Thanks for asking. Luckily, all electronics still works after drying them with hair blower. Bad set-up + Bad driving = swimming not crawling. My high CoG and short front links with my inexperience caused my rig to tumble into the river. Now I know that my set-up is at least waterproofed.

BTW, I applaud you in your driving skill, being the top LCC shafty driver in the area. I wish you good luck in your next comp.

Thanks for the compliment Alex. See you at the next comp.

Ok it's been a month, more info..........

Howz this setup working for you?

where can i get a sweet chassis like that, the angled rear ones?

Why did you get rid of the bent rear links?

I tried getting rid of the bent rear links because I was fighting high CG with 4" shocks so I installed the stock bottom links with stock Losi angled ends. I had issues with it in the last two outings. First time I broke an angled end link (rear skid side) when it hanged-up in a ledge. I also found out that I had too much articulation which is not good. I do not have run time to test and my chance to test my set-up and practice my driving in the rocks is only during comps and therefore had my worse result so far.

I installed back the rear bent link and moved my upper front and rear shock mounts one hole closer to center where it should have been in the first place. I am wondering if there is a Losi shock body and shaft for the stock LCC shaft to get it to 3.5" long.???????

TIP ON ERITEX MOA GEAR MESH. I believed that the best way to have a true pinion and spur gear mesh is by making sure the spur face is in line with the MOA bracket face. After installing the MOA bracket and the spur, place the face of the bracket on top of a flat surface. Adjust the spur face so that it is aligned with the bracket face. Most of the time it cannot be aligned because the post in the 5th thread (close to the spur) of the axle bracket is a bit higher pushing the motor bracket out of alignment against the spur. Cut/grind the post until you can align the bracket and spur face in a straight line using the top of flat surface. Once this step was taken, you are all set to install your motor/bracket and pinion with the assurance that the gear mesh will be in the correct position. Old and new MOA upgrades will benifit from this check and I am sure your motors, EScs and gear will be happy."thumbsup"

Sorry i don't understand are you trying to get the shocks longer or shorter?

Shorter and not using internal limiter.

Losi .9" shock body and 1.0" shaft. this will make 3.5" shock

Thanks a lot.
Just ordered from my LHS: LOSA5055 .9"shock body and LOSA5064 1.0" shaft. I will post photos once installed.

so sick, im going to duel brushless as soon as we pull back from deployment."thumbsup" good work