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Old 10-21-2009, 09:58 PM   #1
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Default Up and over's...Losi Comp Crawler Thread

Up and over's Losi Comp Build Thread


So I sold my AX-10 for a pretty penny on ebay and decided to build up another crawler. This will be my 2nd 2.2 and from my experiences with the first build, I wanted to step it up and do this one right. I mean totally dialed in and with only the best parts available.
This thread will highlight my build of this new Losi comp crawler and try to offer assistance to new folks building them as well. I will include build pics, future mods, basher photos and offer any insight that I experience along the way.

Build Gear-
Losi comp crawler
Novak Goat 3s with 21.5 sensored brushless motor
Vanquish Revolver DH ProComps with bullet weights
New Futaba 3PM-MX- (Thanks for the info Harley)
HS-225MG for Dig sytem
Cirrus CS704 Servo to get started, will replace soon
CKRC 3cell Punch Pack

On the way-
Rocksmith Engineering Outboard Shock system
Death Metal Garage A.L.T Tube Chassis
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:19 PM   #2
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So I started by checking the worm drives. I pulled the axles apart and for anyone diving into this process, it is easy and doesn't take much time to do. I was suprised at how simple the design was inside. I checked to make sure the worm drives were angled down toward the right and that there was only one shim on each side. The shims are very thin so look closely. We only want one shim on each side. Next I lubed up the gear with a nice think mechanical grease.
Did the front and back in about an hour. Easy so far. I chose not to hook up a drive to run like many folks have done as I feel it is not necesary. The point of doing this is to check the mechanics of the gear system and make sure everything is in order. I believe you can do this via a visual check.
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:54 PM   #3
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Looking good so far..Can't wait to see how it turns out..I am running the Goat 3s myself,but with the 18.5 13t pinion and I love it..
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Old 10-21-2009, 10:57 PM   #4
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Now that I know the worm drives are in order I can start with the fun stuff. The most important part of a crawler...where the rubber meets the road, the wheels.
For this I did not mess around at all. I went with a set of Vanquish Revolver DH ProComp wheels and a set of HB Rover Tires in a white compound. Go with the white version of this tire if your planning to run a lighter set on your crawler. These tire are big and in the range of the Panthers and Chisels. I prefer a larger tire and have run Panther for a long time...great tire.
Part of the ProComp wheel system is being able to change the hub offset via an adapter. For this I choose to run 585 hubs in the front for a wider stance and 460 hubs in the rear. The 585 work well with larger tires as they pull them away from the front shocks and provide a little more clearance.
For years I have been dealing with ripping beadlocks apart to adjust wheel weights. These Vanquish wheels have bullet weights that load right into the wheel.
At first I was on the fence due to the price of these, but after getting them and seeing the quality....DAM. These are serious wheels, nothing comes close IMO.
Next post will be the tires mounted. Super fun build so far and so much more to go.
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:25 PM   #5
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Tires are the key to success. The HB Rover I chose are far larger in diameter in comparison to the stock Losi Claws. Check out the side by side stack for a view of the difference in size.
As I mounted the HB Rovers I was happy to find the Vanquish DH Comps now come with air holes pre installed. They have little plugs if you want the tire to not deflate and can easily be screwed in or out.
Easy install and the tires feel nice and soft. We will see how long they last.

Next post I will be starting to mount and install the electronics. Good night
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Old 10-22-2009, 12:47 AM   #6
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I hope your gonna push your wheelbase out to 12.5"
When I went to the larger tires I had to push mine out to 12.5 to get some of the stability back.
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Old 10-22-2009, 01:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Up and over View Post
So I started by checking the worm drives. I pulled the axles apart and for anyone diving into this process, it is easy and doesn't take much time to do. I was suprised at how simple the design was inside. I checked to make sure the worm drives were angled down toward the right and that there was only one shim on each side. The shims are very thin so look closely. We only want one shim on each side. Next I lubed up the gear with a nice think mechanical grease.
Did the front and back in about an hour. Easy so far. I chose not to hook up a drive to run like many folks have done as I feel it is not necesary. The point of doing this is to check the mechanics of the gear system and make sure everything is in order. I believe you can do this via a visual check.
I think the other reason some people are running them in with a drill 1st is to check the wear pattern to be sure it's running in the center,but i'm not sure if i'll bother either.
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Old 10-22-2009, 08:17 AM   #8
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The reason for running the axles in with a drill is there is thought to be extra strain on the motor when breaking in the worms. It's your choice if ya want to or not,,,,,,nice build dude
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Old 10-22-2009, 09:09 AM   #9
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The reason for running the axles in with a drill is there is thought to be extra strain on the motor when breaking in the worms. It's your choice if ya want to or not,,,,,,nice build dude
This is a great point Grouser and I can see how it would really impact a motor if the worm drives were off balance or disfunctional. Especially if someone was using a less powerfull motor setup.
After putting in the grease and just moving the driveshafts, I was amazed at how smooth the tranny felt on this rig, slow but almost no resistance. Smooth like BUTTER.
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Old 10-22-2009, 12:58 PM   #10
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Nice choice on the wheels . I have been trying to decide if I was going to spend the $$$ on them. But after setting up several differnt wheels with different foam and weight. I am going to get a set my self. Nice job on the wright up.
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:44 PM   #11
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So today I installed the servos for the steering and the dig system. I used my Losi mini crawler to power the servos and line everthing up during the installation because I haven't gotten around to wiring the esc on the comp crawler yet.

The install was straight forward and I used an affordable servo...I have used a Cirrus like this in the past and absolutley beat the F%$# out of it, it never died. For now I think I can get away with 200 ounces of torque until I can sport a more powerful one.
The dig system on this comp crawler is simple as pie, just mount up the posts and drop in a mini servo. I went with the HiTec HS-225mg for the size and because I've had good luck with them in the past.

The dig system is clean and I can't wait to mess around with this new Futaba 3PM -MX to see how it can be set it up for operation.
Each servo was easy to mount, just use the included hardward and posts that come with the comp crawler.

After the servos I installed the included valco strap and a 3s lipo battery I got from CKRC. CKRC is great to do business with.
The more I work on this Losi, the more I appreciate it's simple design.
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Old 10-23-2009, 09:28 AM   #12
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Time for the motor. Very straight forward. Remove the engine mounts to expose the gearbox and pull out the motormount plate which is part # a3169.
Before putting in the motor I pulled off the rear tray to have more room to work with. Love how it has a bracket to lay the wires through. This will make everything so clean and tidy.

Use the 2 screws, (A6267) one is 3x6mm the other is 3x10mm, to mount the motor to the plate and then click it back into place.
I put the motor in the crawler to measure the length of wiring from the ESC and to get a visual idea of how this will look. I will need to take it back out to connect the wiring, but it's helpful to know how it will be setup with everything in place.

With the motor mounted up it becomes very tight in there so I turned the motor's connection points to the inside left bottom so that it does not come in contact with the lower links during an extreme compression.

During this session I also took off the body posts from the chassis as I have a DMG A.L.T on the way. Can't wait.
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:47 AM   #13
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Good build so far..Think about out boarding the shocks. Also the hole in the VP

rim is for moisture. If you want or need extra venting put a few holes in your

ties. I put two vent holes in my tires and it works perfect. Also the shims on

the worms, they come with two shims. Your only suppose to take one out if you

have no play in the gears. If you have a little left to right play your suppose to

leave both in. Great build keep up the good work.

Last edited by fa1rch1ld; 10-23-2009 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:57 AM   #14
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I'll be outboarding the rears as soon as I get my RockSmith Engeneering kit. It should work well according to others. Thanks
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Old 10-23-2009, 05:36 PM   #15
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Looks nice !! I just got the 3pm mx fasst radio & the Losi comp crawler. It will be a fun project.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:10 PM   #16
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OK so still waiting on the Rocksmith engineering outboard shock kit.
Jerry from DMG says the ALT I ordered could be ready by this weekend.

I got this baby wired up and put together. I have never wired up a BEC and it turns out to be way easier than I expected. Just follow the directions included in the goat 3s and its a piece of cake. Just take your time.

I started with the ESC on the rear and after putting the fan on the goat and seeing how tall it was, I moved it closer to the motor.
I did this by building a little tray that sits on the lower links. The tray is a great way to protect all the wiring from the shafts rubbing up on them. I might do the same thing for the front to hold the battery and lower the COG a little.
Before I wired everything up, I didn't think everything was going to fit. I am however happy with the end result. Nothing rubs against any moving parts and I feel the ESC is now well protected. After I outboard the rear shocks the ESC will ahve a bit more room to breath.
The wire clamp under the rear tray is a dream and well thought out by Losi. Nice touch.

All in all wiring the electronics was not that difficult and anyone like me with minimal solder iron experience should give it a try. Feel confident that with some patience and a little practice, you can handle doing this.

After it was all wired up I plugged it in and took it around the living room. Way more power than my AX-10 setup with a Rooster crawler, 55 turn and 2 cell.
I am going to rip this thing on the rocks. Anyone not sure about the Novak Goat 3s with 21.5 turn motor needs to know that this setup is amazing. Plenty on power, torque and wheelspeed.

In the process of all my excitement I fried the HS-225 servo for the dig while I was setting the endpoints. Anyone doing this should set the endpoints before attaching the dig rod to the servo...live and learn.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Up and over View Post
OK so still waiting on the Rocksmith engineering outboard shock kit.
Jerry from DMG says the ALT I ordered could be ready by this weekend.

I got this baby wired up and put together. I have never wired up a BEC and it turns out to be way easier than I expected. Just follow the directions included in the goat 3s and its a piece of cake. Just take your time.

I started with the ESC on the rear and after putting the fan on the goat and seeing how tall it was, I moved it closer to the motor.
I did this by building a little tray that sits on the lower links. The tray is a great way to protect all the wiring from the shafts rubbing up on them. I might do the same thing for the front to hold the battery and lower the COG a little.
Before I wired everything up, I didn't think everything was going to fit. I am however happy with the end result. Nothing rubs against any moving parts and I feel the ESC is now well protected. After I outboard the rear shocks the ESC will ahve a bit more room to breath.
The wire clamp under the rear tray is a dream and well thought out by Losi. Nice touch.

All in all wiring the electronics was not that difficult and anyone like me with minimal solder iron experience should give it a try. Feel confident that with some patience and a little practice, you can handle doing this.

After it was all wired up I plugged it in and took it around the living room. Way more power than my AX-10 setup with a Rooster crawler, 55 turn and 2 cell.
I am going to rip this thing on the rocks. Anyone not sure about the Novak Goat 3s with 21.5 turn motor needs to know that this setup is amazing. Plenty on power, torque and wheelspeed.

In the process of all my excitement I fried the HS-225 servo for the dig while I was setting the endpoints. Anyone doing this should set the endpoints before attaching the dig rod to the servo...live and learn.
If you think the 21.5 is fast try a 18.5 on 3s. Looks good too.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:26 PM   #18
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If you think the 21.5 is fast try a 18.5 on 3s. Looks good too.
You should see the 13.5 on 3S.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:29 PM   #19
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You should see the 13.5 on 3S.
Video!
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:32 PM   #20
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I took my LCC out on the rocks today for some basic testing. I reordered a Losi mini crawler servo for the dig after frying my HS 225. I went with the Losi because it is digital.

Before hitting the rocks I changed the Vanquish wheels to the stockers with rock claws. I wanted to get a feel for the total stock setup as my first experience.

First of all this new Futaba 3pm-MX is a great radio. The 2.4 system is so crisp and fasst. It has a nice feel and is spot on.

The LCC is a very capable rig out of the box. The articulation is very smooth and the crawler just wants to dance over the rocks. The foams are a bit stiff in stock form and I'll be changing over to my Vanquish Procomps and HB Rovers for the next session.

The Goat 3s and 21.5 turn has great punch and was buttery smooth. I was able to pop the crawler up out of holes and the slipper clutch seems to do it's job. I didn't have any issues with the CVDs and the steering on this crawler is amazing.

So far I am very happy with this crawler anyong on the fence thinking about buying one should just do it. The worm drives work great and seemed very smooth.
I am using a CKRC 1300 3s pac. I ran the crawler for 30 min and was very heavy on the throttle. I stopped at 30 min with power still in the pac. People out there claiming 20 min runs are either running very heavy rigs, inefficient ESC/motor setups or just go full throttle the entire time. I'm guessing the stock wheels are making this crawler light which is contributing to a 30 min run time.
I didn't bother painting the body yet because I'm going to run a DMG ALT tuber.
Can't wait to get the dig working and to get that Tuber chassis. Ill keep you guys posted. This crawler is very nice and I am impressed. Good job Losi.
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