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02-09-2010, 10:17 PM | #61 | ||
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,077
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Which led to: Quote:
Things went bad quickly when I tried a fully charged 3s. ESC won't even power on now at all. I wasn't using the Castle BEC, but damn, all I did was turn it on and pull the trigger. Seriously. Tried to power through a glitch and that was it. Done. No smoke, no fire, no started working again later. Just done. So, I have a HH Torquemaster and 7T Cobalt Puller coming. There are threads here with people saying it's ok, run a CC BEC, etc. It may work out for some I guess, but my 3s experiment went poorly enough that I can't say I'd recommend that anyone try it. FYI- Losi is talking about a setup for the LCC, not the stock LNC stuff. | ||
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02-09-2010, 10:28 PM | #62 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,077
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Either way, no TT is no TT. The evidence was clear last week when I was playing around with some friends who had AX10's. My LNC was planted. I just wish it could do donuts. | |
02-09-2010, 11:17 PM | #63 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: 5280
Posts: 999
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The two things, worms and good geometry, make for almost no torque twist. There is still just a smidge but not bad. But, my old Axial truck had the same handling of no torque twist, as does my 1.9, and my super is getting the last bit of tweaking to put it there too, where there is no real noticeable torque twist. | |
02-10-2010, 02:05 AM | #64 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: n.e.pa
Posts: 156
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going to post a question - wheel offset - i dont have the stock rims that came with it - sucks for me - i have on it now the vanquish revolvers and have tried the dirty harrys not the comp ones with adj spacing - the bead lock screws hit the steering tie rod's - the rims are axial offset - i tried the stock plastic axial rims - same result - what are the rim options avaiable for the lcc - and has anyone ran into the same problem - i must say this is a quality rig - i enjoy it a lot - thanks for any help chris |
02-10-2010, 07:35 AM | #65 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,077
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Think of it like this. And this being described from the point of view of looking at the rear suspension. If the tires get stopped cold, what happens? The worm will try to walk backward on the spool, essentially making the "pinion" rise, pushing on rhe lower links, pulling on the top. Trying to raise the back half of the rig. Same as a normal r&p, but with more gear reduction so it doesn't amplify as quickly. As the torque gets stopped further, once the worm is bound, and the links have taken a set after their reaction, then the torque starts transferring through the driveshafts and will attempt to twist the car over. All of these force transfers and reactions happen quickly, over and over, cycling. Link geometry, and to a lesser extent, dampening is how we control it. Last edited by shelljeep; 02-10-2010 at 07:39 AM. Reason: Clarification | |
02-10-2010, 09:10 AM | #66 | |
Newbie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Whiteland
Posts: 12
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02-10-2010, 01:07 PM | #67 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Tucson
Posts: 319
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I am also new to the LNC. I put a set of proline wheels on with some proline chisels. Problem I am having is at full turn I now rub the springs pretty hard. I changed my endpoint adjustment but now I lose some turning radius. Is there such thing as a wheel spacer for these or do I just deal with the crappy raduis?:?
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02-12-2010, 05:56 PM | #68 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: n.e.pa
Posts: 156
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i did the same as well that was my quick fix - i know most are using axial off set rims - i would love to find a hex that is 2 or 3 mm thicker then the axial or losi - - hummm thought - berg offset and the junfuc spacers - the 13mm red ones - but that would make it way wide i think - time to steal my friends rig and try that - its a thought worth trying - | |
02-12-2010, 06:02 PM | #69 | |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: hillsboro
Posts: 46
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You have get the castle link hhok up if you have the mamba max pro...play with the sensored motor options...mone did the same thing...changed the sensored motor options and now it is fantastic.... | |
02-12-2010, 08:18 PM | #70 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Iowa
Posts: 296
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Thanks guys for keeping this going! Maybe somebody could figure out how to sticky this thing..... |
02-13-2010, 04:01 PM | #71 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Amarillo
Posts: 14
| lcc newbie i just want to get it right the first time
plz help getting my lcc next week i just want to get it right the first time i have a 3s 11.1 lipo 1300mah with a deans connector the battery fits stock location also have a 2.4 spektrum dx3.0 and a 3 channel receiver lol thats a start i have never crawled before and all the 55t and 17.5t mumbo jumbo is making my head spin i want to run a brushless set up some one plz point me in the right direction also what servos do i need my first rc car is a 56 mph 1/18 desert truck lmao that lil truck screams it has a 7400kv set up wich has helped me realize brushless is more efficient
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02-13-2010, 04:34 PM | #72 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Iowa
Posts: 296
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Novak Goat 3s Crawler systems work great....either in 18.5 or 21 turns with a 3s LiPo. The Excelorin setup by Losi it great too. I think that is available in a 17.5 turn. There are quite a few other combination's available too. The biggest thing is brushless, sensored and between 17 and 21 turns. Run a pinion gear between 12t and 14t. You will need a high torque servo for the steering. Hobbico CS-170 is a cheap one that works good. I used to run an ACE RC DS1313 on my LCC and it did ok but now have a JR Z9100T. Look for something in at least 300oz of torque. The HiTec 225MG servo or the Losi MSX12 work great for the DIG. I would recommend RCBros DIG relocation kit as it moves the servo off the top of the tranny, lowers the center of gravity and corrects some issues with the rod between the servo and the tranny. | |
02-13-2010, 04:44 PM | #73 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Calgary
Posts: 913
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I ran brushless with an 18.5 and 3 cell and wanted more. I ended up going to a 35t brushed and being very happy with it. Then I went to an MOA seet up but will probably be going with the shafty again. You don't need a brushless to run in the LCC. It is a little less work to do it though.
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02-13-2010, 04:53 PM | #74 |
Newbie Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Amarillo
Posts: 14
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dig relocation this sounds cool any link to this site or pics thanks for the fast reply guys
Last edited by Fhb806; 02-13-2010 at 05:03 PM. Reason: found i thanks |
02-13-2010, 09:15 PM | #75 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: 5280
Posts: 999
| Castle link or not, won't do a darn thing with a smoked winding and blow sensors in the motor. That was why it was cogging. New motor solved that issue |
02-15-2010, 03:33 PM | #76 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Iowa
Posts: 296
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They did a nice job building it. Comes with everything you need to move the servo. RCBros also make one for the Losi MSX12 servo. On a scale of 1 to 10...I rate it at 11 | |
02-16-2010, 08:18 PM | #77 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Iowa
Posts: 296
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I know there is no Moderator listed for this section, but I see posts move almost daily here. This thread was designed to catch some of the newbie posts in an effort to not have 200 threads asking the same questions since most newb's don't know how to use the search button. Anyway.....can you sticky this thread for me? It would probably make your job easier too if ya did. Thanks |
02-16-2010, 08:26 PM | #78 | |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
Posts: 1,901
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for guys like me looking for info thanks MD | |
02-21-2010, 08:33 PM | #79 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: redding ca
Posts: 418
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ok not understanding why no 3s batterys im running a 3s lipo stock lnc esc on red setting with a titan motor 13t pinion not saying it doesnt heat up because it does but my lipo or system has not caught fire (yet) pretty sure it might but specs on lipo are 3s 1100mah 25 c burst rate
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02-21-2010, 10:07 PM | #80 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,077
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Here's my story. I hooked up a half charged 3s, 40C battery, immediately, I had some glitching , which I'd never had before. It glitched the entire run, sometimes worse than others. I got about 10 minutes on it before I had to shut it down because the 35T motor was starting to get kinda hot. The esc never even got warm, I checked it probably once a minute because I was paranoid about the 3s. So, I charge up the 3s, 40c to full, and hook it back up. Immediate glitch, won't go forward. I reverse, it lurches back, I try to go forward, and nada. Done. No smoke, no fire, no burnt smell, just no response. The esc was cold, as was the motor. I suspect that the full charge was too much for it, and that the 40c burst didn't help either. When it would glitch, I'd pin the trigger the opposite direction to get it unstuck, so it saw that full 40c a few times. Good luck with it man. I know one thing for sure... whatever you have to do to run 3 or 4s is worth it. | |
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