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Thread: New to the Losi Comp Crawler or Losi Night Crawler - Post your questions here!

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Old 02-09-2010, 10:17 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by missions1 View Post
in my lnc im running stock gearing thru a 35t handwound motor and 20 tooth pinion with a 7.4v 2200mah 2cell lipo exelllent wheel speed and good torque no heat issues at all

hope this helps

paul
This has been my most successful combo yet as well. Motor stayed cool, wheelspeed was improved, but I still wanted more.
Which led to:


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Originally Posted by Mad Dawg View Post
DO NOT use a 3s LiPo with the stock ESC. Bad things will happen and a fire may result.
Tried a 3s. Things went ok when I tried a half charged battery(around 12V), glitchy but usable as the battery dropped volts.
Things went bad quickly when I tried a fully charged 3s. ESC won't even power on now at all. I wasn't using the Castle BEC, but damn, all I did was turn it on and pull the trigger. Seriously. Tried to power through a glitch and that was it. Done. No smoke, no fire, no started working again later. Just done.
So, I have a HH Torquemaster and 7T Cobalt Puller coming.

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Originally Posted by krqxpunch View Post
i noticed on losi's site that jake wrights comp set up includes an 11.1v battery. would this be advisable for the stock motor , and electronics of the night crawler ?
There are threads here with people saying it's ok, run a CC BEC, etc. It may work out for some I guess, but my 3s experiment went poorly enough that I can't say I'd recommend that anyone try it. FYI- Losi is talking about a setup for the LCC, not the stock LNC stuff.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:28 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Iberian View Post
There is zero torque twist with worm gears. And I mean zero, not a little, zero.
The lack of torque twist is due moreso to the tunability of the symmetrical 4 link suspension design than the worms. It still has driveshafts. The massive amount of gear reduction in the axles does help though.
Either way, no TT is no TT.
The evidence was clear last week when I was playing around with some friends who had AX10's. My LNC was planted. I just wish it could do donuts.
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:17 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by shelljeep View Post
The lack of torque twist is due moreso to the tunability of the symmetrical 4 link suspension design than the worms. It still has driveshafts.
You're right there as the suspension does 95% of it, but it is also the worms. Torque twist like in an Axial is the same as what you'd find in a real car... the rig is trying to climb the ring gear and the associated forces with that since you are using a pinion to push DOWN on a ring gear. With the worms, the worm (pinion) is pushing FORWARD on the spool (ring gear) and that takes that set of forces out of the equation.

The two things, worms and good geometry, make for almost no torque twist. There is still just a smidge but not bad. But, my old Axial truck had the same handling of no torque twist, as does my 1.9, and my super is getting the last bit of tweaking to put it there too, where there is no real noticeable torque twist.
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Old 02-10-2010, 02:05 AM   #64
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going to post a question -
wheel offset - i dont have the stock rims that came with it - sucks for me - i have on it now the vanquish revolvers and have tried the dirty harrys not the comp ones with adj spacing - the bead lock screws hit the steering tie rod's - the rims are axial offset - i tried the stock plastic axial rims - same result -
what are the rim options avaiable for the lcc - and has anyone ran into the same problem -
i must say this is a quality rig - i enjoy it a lot -
thanks for any help
chris
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Old 02-10-2010, 07:35 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by bustedcrawler View Post
You're right there as the suspension does 95% of it, but it is also the worms. Torque twist like in an Axial is the same as what you'd find in a real car... the rig is trying to climb the ring gear and the associated forces with that since you are using a pinion to push DOWN on a ring gear. With the worms, the worm (pinion) is pushing FORWARD on the spool (ring gear) and that takes that set of forces out of the equation.
I'm not sure the worm plays in that heavily.(Edit-meaning I'm not sure the worm design eliminates "pinion" rise)
Think of it like this. And this being described from the point of view of looking at the rear suspension.
If the tires get stopped cold, what happens? The worm will try to walk backward on the spool, essentially making the "pinion" rise, pushing on rhe lower links, pulling on the top. Trying to raise the back half of the rig. Same as a normal r&p, but with more gear reduction so it doesn't amplify as quickly.
As the torque gets stopped further, once the worm is bound, and the links have taken a set after their reaction, then the torque starts transferring through the driveshafts and will attempt to twist the car over.
All of these force transfers and reactions happen quickly, over and over, cycling. Link geometry, and to a lesser extent, dampening is how we control it.

Last edited by shelljeep; 02-10-2010 at 07:39 AM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:10 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by activethunderrc View Post
going to post a question -
wheel offset - i dont have the stock rims that came with it - sucks for me - i have on it now the vanquish revolvers and have tried the dirty harrys not the comp ones with adj spacing - the bead lock screws hit the steering tie rod's - the rims are axial offset - i tried the stock plastic axial rims - same result -
what are the rim options avaiable for the lcc - and has anyone ran into the same problem -
i must say this is a quality rig - i enjoy it a lot -
thanks for any help
chris
I ran into the same problem with my eritex comp wheels. I just used a thin washer between the wheel and the hex on the fronts to give the beadlock screws the clearence needed
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Old 02-10-2010, 01:07 PM   #67
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I am also new to the LNC. I put a set of proline wheels on with some proline chisels. Problem I am having is at full turn I now rub the springs pretty hard. I changed my endpoint adjustment but now I lose some turning radius. Is there such thing as a wheel spacer for these or do I just deal with the crappy raduis?:?
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:56 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Buddha34 View Post
I ran into the same problem with my eritex comp wheels. I just used a thin washer between the wheel and the hex on the fronts to give the beadlock screws the clearence needed

i did the same as well that was my quick fix - i know most are using axial off set rims - i would love to find a hex that is 2 or 3 mm thicker then the axial or losi - - hummm thought - berg offset and the junfuc spacers - the 13mm red ones - but that would make it way wide i think - time to steal my friends rig and try that -

its a thought
worth trying -
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:02 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by bustedcrawler View Post
OK here is one for you guys...


LCC, Mamba Max Pro (high start power, low timing, sensored mode), Novak 21.5T motor, using a 3S lipo...

All is hooked up, but it cogs worse than any set-up I've ever seen! I've had sensorless set-ups that were smoother than this. This all got started by the Goat 3S esc shutting down randomly (including flat ground). Originally thought it was the esc... now with Mamba Max Pro, I get some nasty cogging.

So.. time for a new motor or what? Cracked the motor apart, found 1 broken sensor wire which I fixed, no other real problems. After fixing the sensor wire, it is still a cogging mofo.

No signs of scorching or other issues, but I'm gathering the smoked motor smell isn't like that new car smell where you want to have it This was apparent when I split the motor to look at it tonight.

You have get the castle link hhok up if you have the mamba max pro...play with the sensored motor options...mone did the same thing...changed the sensored motor options and now it is fantastic....
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:18 PM   #70
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Thanks guys for keeping this going!

Maybe somebody could figure out how to sticky this thing.....
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:01 PM   #71
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Default lcc newbie i just want to get it right the first time

plz help getting my lcc next week i just want to get it right the first time i have a 3s 11.1 lipo 1300mah with a deans connector the battery fits stock location also have a 2.4 spektrum dx3.0 and a 3 channel receiver lol thats a start i have never crawled before and all the 55t and 17.5t mumbo jumbo is making my head spin i want to run a brushless set up some one plz point me in the right direction also what servos do i need my first rc car is a 56 mph 1/18 desert truck lmao that lil truck screams it has a 7400kv set up wich has helped me realize brushless is more efficient
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:34 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Fhb806 View Post
plz help getting my lcc next week..... i have never crawled before and all the 55t and 17.5t mumbo jumbo is making my head spin i want to run a brushless set up some one plz point me in the right direction also what servos do i need
Brushless is the only way to go with the LCC.

Novak Goat 3s Crawler systems work great....either in 18.5 or 21 turns with a 3s LiPo.
The Excelorin setup by Losi it great too. I think that is available in a 17.5 turn.
There are quite a few other combination's available too.
The biggest thing is brushless, sensored and between 17 and 21 turns.
Run a pinion gear between 12t and 14t.

You will need a high torque servo for the steering. Hobbico CS-170 is a cheap one that works good. I used to run an ACE RC DS1313 on my LCC and it did ok but now have a JR Z9100T.
Look for something in at least 300oz of torque.

The HiTec 225MG servo or the Losi MSX12 work great for the DIG. I would recommend RCBros DIG relocation kit as it moves the servo off the top of the tranny, lowers the center of gravity and corrects some issues with the rod between the servo and the tranny.
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:44 PM   #73
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I ran brushless with an 18.5 and 3 cell and wanted more. I ended up going to a 35t brushed and being very happy with it. Then I went to an MOA seet up but will probably be going with the shafty again. You don't need a brushless to run in the LCC. It is a little less work to do it though.
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:53 PM   #74
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dig relocation this sounds cool any link to this site or pics thanks for the fast reply guys

Last edited by Fhb806; 02-13-2010 at 05:03 PM. Reason: found i thanks
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Old 02-13-2010, 09:15 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by crawlercop View Post
You have get the castle link hhok up if you have the mamba max pro...play with the sensored motor options...mone did the same thing...changed the sensored motor options and now it is fantastic....
Castle link or not, won't do a darn thing with a smoked winding and blow sensors in the motor. That was why it was cogging. New motor solved that issue
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Old 02-15-2010, 03:33 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Fhb806 View Post
dig relocation this sounds cool any link to this site or pics thanks for the fast reply guys
Here you go........RCBros DIG Relocation Kit

They did a nice job building it. Comes with everything you need to move the servo. RCBros also make one for the Losi MSX12 servo.

On a scale of 1 to 10...I rate it at 11
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:18 PM   #77
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I know there is no Moderator listed for this section, but I see posts move almost daily here.

This thread was designed to catch some of the newbie posts in an effort to not have 200 threads asking the same questions since most newb's don't know how to use the search button.

Anyway.....can you sticky this thread for me? It would probably make your job easier too if ya did.


Thanks
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:26 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Dawg View Post
I know there is no Moderator listed for this section, but I see posts move almost daily here.

This thread was designed to catch some of the newbie posts in an effort to not have 200 threads asking the same questions since most newb's don't know how to use the search button.

Anyway.....can you sticky this thread for me? It would probably make your job easier too if ya did.


Thanks
sounds like MD has a good point,and looks like alot of good info
for guys like me looking for info
thanks MD
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:33 PM   #79
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ok not understanding why no 3s batterys im running a 3s lipo stock lnc esc on red setting with a titan motor 13t pinion not saying it doesnt heat up because it does but my lipo or system has not caught fire (yet) pretty sure it might but specs on lipo are 3s 1100mah 25 c burst rate
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Old 02-21-2010, 10:07 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by NorCalScaleCrawlers View Post
ok not understanding why no 3s batterys im running a 3s lipo stock lnc esc on red setting with a titan motor 13t pinion not saying it doesnt heat up because it does but my lipo or system has not caught fire (yet) pretty sure it might but specs on lipo are 3s 1100mah 25 c burst rate
All I know is what my experience was like, trying to run 3s thru the lnc esc. Maybe some details will help explain what I did differently from you, which might have contributed to the problem. I know nothing about the Titan 13T motor, I was running a 35T 540 when it fried. I'm running the stock 20T pinion also, so I can get a good launch. I don't think motor or final gear ratio had jack to do with causing it though.
Here's my story.
I hooked up a half charged 3s, 40C battery, immediately, I had some glitching , which I'd never had before. It glitched the entire run, sometimes worse than others.
I got about 10 minutes on it before I had to shut it down because the 35T motor was starting to get kinda hot. The esc never even got warm, I checked it probably once a minute because I was paranoid about the 3s.
So, I charge up the 3s, 40c to full, and hook it back up. Immediate glitch, won't go forward. I reverse, it lurches back, I try to go forward, and nada. Done. No smoke, no fire, no burnt smell, just no response.
The esc was cold, as was the motor.
I suspect that the full charge was too much for it, and that the 40c burst didn't help either. When it would glitch, I'd pin the trigger the opposite direction to get it unstuck, so it saw that full 40c a few times.
Good luck with it man. I know one thing for sure... whatever you have to do to run 3 or 4s is worth it.
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