VP DH Pro Comps and LCC
 

I bought the LCC some bling tonight, a set of VP DH Pro Comps and a set of Sedonas.

I remember reading people had an issue with aluminum wheels on a LCC saying you need to use locknuts with out flanges on them and washers. So I bought those too.

That didn't help, the axle stubs still don't go all the way through the plastic on the lock nuts, the front almost makes it and is probably ok (maybe) but the rear ain't happening.

I put them on and crawled around the basement for 15 minutes and then checked them. One of the rear nuts was loose (wheel about to fall off loose) the other 3 had loosened a bit. I use a torque driver to tighten the wheels so they all started out the same and this is how I know that they all were looser than when I started. I'm going to use a different torque driver tomorrow (one that I know exactly how tight they are) I might be able to go tighter but since I don't know how much you can torque those 4mm nuts I need to sneak up on it. It feels like it should be more than tight enough.

I searched but couldn't find the thread i read all this on before.

So if anyone has the links or has a suggestion I'm all ears (all eyes? :shock:)

I'm thinking thinner washers but I don't think that will be enough.

Locktite on the axle nuts?

Maybe I need to use the same hubs on the rear I have on the front, I think I bought the .335 and .460 hex hubs (based on what I remember from the other thread) Maybe .585's will be better yet?

I know with the hubs I bought I can't put the weight's in the rear wheels either (they bottom out in the hubs) look at the 2nd pic and you will see the hubs blocking the holes for the weights.

Thanks

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...nt-wheel-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ar-wheel-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...nt-wheel-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ar-wheel-1.jpg

that is the way my slws are. lock tight them and call it good.

If you're not already, use some slim lock nut's. Racer's Edge has some slim aluminum lock nut's Judging by your pic, they should be around the right depth, and they come in a few color's.

These are what he is talking about.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Blue-4

I just always check mine...Never had one come lose.

Which offset hubs do you use, you can see from my pics the front hubs allow a lot more of the axle stub to go through the nut.

Thanks for the tip on the thin flange nuts going to order a set, no problem with them being aluminum?

No matter the offset they all do that..SLW/DH, all the rims all the offsets. I
have 3 diff offsets...I just make sure to make them nice and tight...But I would
recommend getting the low profile nuts...

I've had the same issue with every wheel I've put on my LCC... VP, DNA & Mayhem. I ended up machining some thin hex adapters and thinning the part of the wheel that the nut goes against. It's a fair amount of work but now I can use standard flanged nuts.
It looks like you've got some hubs for SLW wheels in the back there, you need Pro-Comp hubs to clear the weights"thumbsup"

I dont use lock tight on my truck cause I work on it too much! I am using the lock nuts off a Jato. TRA1747x. They are cross cut on the back, so even though they dont go all the way on they eat into the wheel and grab really well!

I have the DH Procomps and I run the TRA1747x. They work pretty good.

well 2 things.

1st, the reason why the weights do not fit with the hub, is cause you are sticking the wrong hub in that rim. You have a slw hub in a dh pro comp rim. We have specific hubs made for those rims to fit the weights.

2nd, The reason you do not get enough threads is the losi stubs are a little short than the standard norm.

We do have a solution coming for our rims, they are drawn up, but will take a while to build the stock.

Will the rims still fit? yes, they will. You just have to make sure on any non losi rim that you check to make sure your screws are on tight and have not loosened up.

Jim

man thats a bad move on losi's part the stock lcc wheels broke the first time my buddy went to put tires on it... maybe if they made some comp worthy wheels then i could see ya make your one offset and design but not with garbage plastics

As Losi/Vanquish owner, I am eagerly awaiting this to come out.

We will post on it as soon as we have our solution available. "thumbsup"

Jim

Thanks for the replies, the LHS said those hubs were for the DH's so live and learn, I bought a third set of hubs yesterday, so now I have 335's front and rear (all they had). They also had the Traxxas low profile nuts and I bought them, better but not perfect.

I had to laugh a the LHS dude, he showed me the back of the nuts and said I might not want to use them on aluminum wheels because of the way they are knurled on the back. I looked at him and told him they were perfect, it's obvious they were done that way to help keep them tight.

So I'll give this a shot until the VP solution comes along and if they get loose "Locktite is my friend"

And to the VP Monkey, thanks for the reply, I in no way was blaming VP for the issue, I knew what Losi did, the company I work for (ZEISS) is always trying to make everything proprietary to keep out the competition.

First time I saw VP wheels I knew I was buying them, they're little works of art, to my eyes.

Just hurry with the fix :mrgreen:

I ran into this problem also when I tried putting DNA wheels on mine. The front was o.k. but when I tightened up the rear it locked it up. Aside from the axle shafts not long enough the hex is different. I ended up machining the hex in the wheel flat to remove the drill point for the corners on the inside then I machined the hex area to reduce the depth to match the Losi hex. It was not alot of work but they fit now. Sledge if you are going to be at Camp Twisted next Sunday I can show you what I did.

Would the thin SCX-10 wheel hexes work?

I use loc-tite and they stay on just fine! "thumbsup"