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Thread: Mascman's Beetlejuice V3 LCC MOA w/ BLC re-gear

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Old 05-28-2010, 10:05 PM   #21
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wheel weight was going to be my next ? Fronts? rears?
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:10 PM   #22
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wheel weight was going to be my next ? Fronts? rears?
It was a couple posts back.

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Originally Posted by mascman View Post
Total weight for fronts is 11.9oz and rears are 8.1, which actually makes my rig lighter by 2.2oz. It must be a step in the right direction because a test crawl allowed me to get up and over things that had to be "finessed" before. I have a little better control now that I can keep the speed down.
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Old 05-29-2010, 02:03 AM   #23
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How is the RC4WD dig woring for you? I haven't really heard good things about it but then again i don't personaly know anyone with one. And what is the overall weight of your rig? I just went MOA and my truck is the same weight as before but now there is a lot more weight on the axles and less in the chassis. I am thinking i can lose so weight since i dont have to compsate for the extra weight in the chassis.
I can run 2 Lipos, back to back for 1 hour run time with no issues. The dig feels warm, but not hot. It is working well for me.

After my wheel change I am at 5.46lbs with the Lipo installed.
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:56 PM   #24
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Default axle steer

Sorry, missed the wheel weights that is total for both front and both rear. Did you test for axle steer yet? I'm collecting all I need to finish my two MOA's before I start building. I have a comp to get ready for this weekend w/my son, have a look at the AZ Summer Shootout on 4th 5th & 6th of June. Team Losi will be there it should be a great opportunity to learn from the best of the local talent and the top pros.

Last edited by rcdarace; 06-01-2010 at 10:01 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:36 AM   #25
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Each front wheel and tire = 11.9oz
Each rear wheel and tire = 8.1oz
*This actually makes my rig 4.44oz lees than before...forgot to double the weight savings!

There is some axle steer, but I don't notice it when crawling...only noticed when I tested for it while on the bench. I'm not even sure how it would affect you when crawling...with the front and rear digs and articulation, seems like it wouldn't be a factor?

I don't know if a stock one would have any or not.

Last edited by mascman; 06-02-2010 at 06:40 AM.
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:06 PM   #26
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I was not happy with the wheel speed of two HH 14t cobalt pullers on 2s. Holmes Hobbies does not recommend 3s on those particular motors as overheating will occur.
You can throw more voltage at the 14T's, it's the lower turn pullers that don't like it. I'll be starting with 4s on my BJV3 LCC BLC MOA with the 14T pullers. From his site:
7t- 2 to 3s (3s may result in overheating). 45a continous 11.1v use, 35a continuous 7.4v use
10t- 2 to 3s.* 40 amps continuous 11.1v use, 30 amps continuous for 7.4v.
14t- 3 to 6s.* 35a continuous 22.2v use, 25a continuous 3s use.
HTH

Mascman, nice job. Was good to see this thread, it's nearly identical to my parts pile. Looks great. Any issues with clod stall?
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Old 06-05-2010, 06:12 PM   #27
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Thanks shelljeep.

I haven't really ran it a lot, but the stall doesn't seem bad.

I just went to 13 / 12 gearing to see if it will run a tad cooler.
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Old 06-05-2010, 06:16 PM   #28
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I run my 500 cobalt pullers on 3s with no problems and plenty of wheel speed. I am loving the motors!
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:55 PM   #29
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You can throw more voltage at the 14T's, it's the lower turn pullers that don't like it. I'll be starting with 4s on my BJV3 LCC BLC MOA with the 14T pullers. From his site:
7t- 2 to 3s (3s may result in overheating). 45a continous 11.1v use, 35a continuous 7.4v use
10t- 2 to 3s.* 40 amps continuous 11.1v use, 30 amps continuous for 7.4v.
14t- 3 to 6s.* 35a continuous 22.2v use, 25a continuous 3s use.
HTH

Mascman, nice job. Was good to see this thread, it's nearly identical to my parts pile. Looks great. Any issues with clod stall?

My 14t cobalts are 400 size 2s only for them, I'm going to sell both, thanks though. I just got my 27t axials and my BLC regear arrived today. Got to wait now for my son to get back from his vacation we are going to build these two together everything is setting on my bench. I may try bending up the links now and have them ready to bolt in.
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:07 PM   #30
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Just some updated pics.

I really never decided on a paint or graphics scheme for this, so I just grabbed an old E-maxx body and started cutting. It was free and flashy, so why not?!





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Old 08-06-2010, 02:07 AM   #31
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Reduce, reuse, recycle.
Looks good mang!
Did you file the top of your housings flat for the MOA brackets?
Started working on mine tonight, looks like they would fit better if you get rid of the hump on top and shorten the 3rd bolt bung.
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:51 AM   #32
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Reduce, reuse, recycle.
Looks good mang!
Did you file the top of your housings flat for the MOA brackets?
Started working on mine tonight, looks like they would fit better if you get rid of the hump on top and shorten the 3rd bolt bung.
Thanks.

Yes, I hit them with the flat side of cut-off wheel...takes care of it in a hurry!

Good luck on the build!
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:52 PM   #33
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Did you get a final weight RTR?
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:20 PM   #34
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hello
just want to know if the where i can order this chassis and beetlejuice v3?
thanks
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Old 10-20-2010, 12:50 AM   #35
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Here's a link to the sales thread in the vendor's market sub-forum, Chassis and Suspension:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=221702

You will not be disappointed, this chassis flat out works.
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Old 10-30-2010, 02:48 PM   #36
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I am wondering if you tried to use the stock LCC Trany in the Beetlejuice V3 lowboy chassis. I want to get the chassis but did not want to go MOA. Thanks for the help
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Old 10-30-2010, 05:15 PM   #37
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I am wondering if you tried to use the stock LCC Trany in the Beetlejuice V3 lowboy chassis. I want to get the chassis but did not want to go MOA. Thanks for the help
BJV3 is only 1.5" wide at skid, losi LCC trany is 1.75 wide without motor.
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Old 10-31-2010, 01:53 PM   #38
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Do you think the chassis could be shimmed out enough to make it work with out loosing the advantage of its small size? If not, what other chassis would you suggest.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:36 PM   #39
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Do you think the chassis could be shimmed out enough to make it work with out loosing the advantage of its small size? If not, what other chassis would you suggest.
You could make it a bit wider by makeing a new skid and chassie cross brace's,
as far as a diff chassie I cant think of any at the moment.
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