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Thread: Mascman's Beetlejuice V3 LCC MOA w/ BLC re-gear

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Old 05-09-2010, 03:38 PM   #1
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Default Mascman's Beetlejuice V3 LCC MOA w/ BLC re-gear

I just wanted to see how many acronyms I could throw into the title!

I did a rebuild on my LCC and went MOA with stock chassis and DMG tuber. I took it a step further and just went with a new chassis...the Beetlejuice V3.

I like the new BLC chassis a lot, but I'm kind of used to not running a full body anymore so I went with the BJ.

SPECS
LCC axles with Eritex MOA and BLC re-gear
27T Axial motors 14t Front / 13t rear
Mamba Max Pro
RC4WD Dig switch
Turnigy 3S 1300 Lipo

At first I was going to try and use the stock links in the front and then make custom bent ones for the rear.



I'll be drilling new holes to mount my uppers as the MOA conversion leaves the links in the stock location...which is not where I want them.

The upper links will likely be custom made and probably need some bends to clear everything. I'll be mounting my links here:



Here's where I'm at right now...can't do much more until I get the MOA brackets off and drill / tap them.

Couple of comparison pics. I really like the DMG Tuber and hate to give it up. :(





Ride height is pretty much where it should be...may be tweaked after the upper links are finished.

I ended up just bending the stock links and using a combo of stock and Traxas rod ends, was able to get it where it needs to be.





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Old 05-09-2010, 04:13 PM   #2
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I cannot wait to get back home to actually go and see how the MOA LCC performs... Ive been thinking about picking up a set of axles to build one, but I'm loving the shafty...
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Old 05-09-2010, 04:18 PM   #3
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looks like a good start. I like what you did with the upper links this will help the losi moa alot.
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:10 PM   #4
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I got the brackets drilled and tapped for 3mm:


I didn't have to make any links. I just used the stockers, with some spacers here and there. Replaced the Losi balls with some Traxxas ones so I can use my 3mm hardware. I'll run it like this and see how the links work...maybe some cutom ones in the future.



Finished ride height...should help on break-overs.






I was able to get more steering also with the shocks mounted inside the chassis.
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:01 PM   #5
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This chassis is nice and compact...so compact that I was wondering how the heck I would fit the electronics in it. I run the Lipo on the rear axle so that helps free up some space.

I decided to make a lexan plate that would be anchored in the center of the chassis, and the ends are free to move if the links push on them.



Glued the ESC and Dig switch in place and using 3M dual lock to hold the RX in. It all fits!




Gave my front links a bend to clear the shocks better.




Rear has no clearance issues.


Everything seems to fit well with not much room to spare. Just need to route and secure the wiring and get some panels on it.





I may put the stock foams in the Sedonas. This rig seems too light for the PL memory foams now. I'm sure they would work, but the stock foams may not fold / bound up as much as I thought it would.

Stay tuned for panels.
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Old 05-11-2010, 01:41 PM   #6
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Rigs looking good mascman.. It's amazing what the re gear and moving those upper links did huh?

I am running the pro line 2 stages in my sedonas,they work really well for a lighter set up..if you get some,make sure you glue the inner and outer together.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepial View Post
Rigs looking good mascman.. It's amazing what the re gear and moving those upper links did huh?

I am running the pro line 2 stages in my sedonas,they work really well for a lighter set up..if you get some,make sure you glue the inner and outer together.
Thanks!

I never ran the MOA with the other gears, but I have these set up so well that it is almost silent. The re-gear is a must have!

I just put the stock foams in and may end up running them for a while. The PL foams seemed a little stiff now that my trucks is a little lighter.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mascman View Post
This chassis is nice and compact...so compact that I was wondering how the heck I would fit the electronics in it. I run the Lipo on the rear axle so that helps free up some space.

I decided to make a lexan plate that would be anchored in the center of the chassis, and the ends are free to move if the links push on them.



Glued the ESC and Dig switch in place and using 3M dual lock to hold the RX in. It all fits!




Gave my front links a bend to clear the shocks better.




Rear has no clearance issues.


Everything seems to fit well with not much room to spare. Just need to route and secure the wiring and get some panels on it.





I may put the stock foams in the Sedonas. This rig seems too light for the PL memory foams now. I'm sure they would work, but the stock foams may not fold / bound up as much as I thought it would.

Stay tuned for panels.
I am looking forward to seeing the panels.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:51 PM   #9
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Probably not gonna be great!

Comp is on Sunday and I'll be working every day until then so I may have to keep it simple.
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Old 05-11-2010, 02:54 PM   #10
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oh,and I am gonna be do a collaberation real soon with another vendor for a bodiless option on the BLC Chopper..
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mascman View Post
Probably not gonna be great!

Comp is on Sunday and I'll be working every day until then so I may have to keep it simple.
Looking good.

The Eritex gear covers works with the regear with a bit of pitch due to tight fit. I prefer that way so gears dont collect dirt.

Good luck in your comp.
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Old 05-12-2010, 12:51 AM   #12
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Nice i use a wax lube for bike chains its a dry lube and works great.
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:35 AM   #13
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Had a chance to take it out for a couple packs and am pretty happy with it.

Not crazy about the Sedonas, but don't hate them either...just used to my Rovers I guess.

I didn't want to do a rush paint job, so i just cut and folded some Monster cans. I've finished it off since the pics by making a Lexan hood and threw on some stickers.

I like the look:











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Old 05-14-2010, 04:17 PM   #14
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Last update and I'm done.

New hood, new roof and now with the Pro-line 2 stage foams in.



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Old 05-21-2010, 08:05 AM   #15
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I just changed out the stock Losi wheels for my RC4WD Special edition wheels since I am not using them on my scaler.

They are a little wider than the Losi's and I like the way it spreads the tire with the taller Pro-line foam. On the stock wheels, they seemed stiffer and now they feel like they will conform more.


Total weight for fronts is 11.9oz and rears are 8.1, which actually makes my rig lighter by 2.2oz. It must be a step in the right direction because a test crawl allowed me to get up and over things that had to be "finessed" before. I have a little better control now that I can keep the speed down.

Since the wheels had faux hubs and centers, I filled the holes back up with the bolts...I kind of like it. I may get some shiny button heads just to dress it up some if these wheels work out for me. I've already replaced the original bolts for black button heads that gave me better clearance on the steering knuckles.


Looks dull without the bolts...

Looks better to me.
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:10 PM   #16
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Default Motor ?

Just curious why you decided to use the 27t axial motors? Have you tried others? Or has someone else recommended these to you? I'm trying to avoid doing the R&D and just build two very comp worthy rigs for my son and I. Everything I build is X2 so it can be spendy experimenting. I was not happy with the wheel speed of two HH 14t cobalt pullers on 2s. Holmes Hobbies does not recommend 3s on those particular motors as overheating will occur.
I will do re-gear and OTA steering from BLC and I'm ordering my chassis tonight from Jeremy. More motors are the last purchase. Thanks
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdarace View Post
Just curious why you decided to use the 27t axial motors? Have you tried others? Or has someone else recommended these to you? I'm trying to avoid doing the R&D and just build two very comp worthy rigs for my son and I. Everything I build is X2 so it can be spendy experimenting. I was not happy with the wheel speed of two HH 14t cobalt pullers on 2s. Holmes Hobbies does not recommend 3s on those particular motors as overheating will occur.
I will do re-gear and OTA steering from BLC and I'm ordering my chassis tonight from Jeremy. More motors are the last purchase. Thanks
2 motors for $15.00 is why! They are cheap since everyone takes them off their AX10s...most without even using them. It's funny because I bought a 3rd one for my scaler and it had no braking ability so i put a cheap Integy 35T back in that.

I figured that with the lower gear ratio of the LCC axle that maybe a faster motor would be the way to go. Probably can't beat a good handwound, but for such a cheap price, it was an experiment...and I will keep running them.

I get 30 minutes of runtime with my setup using 14t front and 13 rear (going to switch to 13f / 12r):
BLC Re-gear
Mamba Max Pro
RC4WD Dig switch
1300mah Turnigy 3s
Airtronics 94780
Castle BEC @ 6V
DX3R

Last edited by mascman; 05-28-2010 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:41 PM   #18
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I have not ordered from BLC yet maybe I will wait to hear results on the gear change. Does it lack torque w/14f and 13r? I will probably need to try both myself to determine what I like. I just see an advantage to have the wheel speed if you need it as long as the low end does not suffer. My Beatlejuice chassis are on their way and I want to make my own skins as you have done. Jeremy is sending me the templates. Low cost motors sound good to thanks I will try them. Did you make any kind of templates for your links?
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:20 PM   #19
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The only reason I think it will be better with a little lower gearing is that the electronics get a little warm. I think with the faster motors, I should gear down a little.

It's got some speed now, so gearing down a little is not going to hurt it.

For the links, it was just personal preference and whatever I needed to do to get the motor positions where I wanted them.

I am going to re-gear so maybe I will pull the links and measure them. I have some spacers to put on the rear upper links, and I may change rod ends on the lowers so I may need to space it back out.

Last tech inspection, I was just slightly long (acccording to their guage) so i am going to mess with that.
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:25 PM   #20
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How is the RC4WD dig woring for you? I haven't really heard good things about it but then again i don't personaly know anyone with one. And what is the overall weight of your rig? I just went MOA and my truck is the same weight as before but now there is a lot more weight on the axles and less in the chassis. I am thinking i can lose so weight since i dont have to compsate for the extra weight in the chassis.
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