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Old 05-20-2010, 07:02 PM   #1
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Default just picked one up

ok I snaged a used lcc from a local club member.
he says it was breaking the cvd's constantly. other than that no issues he mentioned.

got it home,drove it around a bit on the concrete.getting used to the dig,turning radios ect.

noticed thats at low speed dig engagement is smooth.
but if I got the throttle up at all,there is a slipping/light grinding sound.[fix=stretch springs] thanks for the tip

also noticed that when not in dig,and turning sharp. it is a steady pull.
but with dig engaged and turning sharp,there is what I will call a wable,or crab walking that the wheels are doing.

it turns sharp,just that it doesnt do this when in 4w.

also noticed that after about 10 min of play,90%low speed.
the axles at the pumkin area was a bit warm to the touch.
[fix=worm food] thanks for the tip

input is appreciated
thanks

Last edited by rock hard; 05-20-2010 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:54 PM   #2
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Stretching the dig springs a little will help a lot with the light grinding when going into 4wd.

Give the spools some BLC worm food .

The rest I would just be guessing at?
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:18 PM   #3
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thanks for the info,2 out of 3 questions answered.

I donr know how long I'll keep this truck.
got it for my son. he drove sportsman all season.
only repairs made to the axial was popped drivshaftsx2,one bent knuckle.

the slipper clutch on the axial saves the drivline.
what are ya doing about the cvd's?

the truck has a tekin rs pro with 21.5 brushless set up[ motor is freakin huge]and a 5645 servo.the steering feels kinda soft.I'm used to my 9100t's and 7950's though.

the dig serco looks like its a stock mrc servo maybe
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:17 AM   #4
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This may help you out

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=191945
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:48 AM   #5
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You should only go into and out of DIG when stopped or very very slow unless you like to hear a lot of clicking noise.

Yes when you use DIG you lock either the rear (normal) or front axle. Locking the rear allows the front wheels to pull the truck around by anchoring the rear. Locking the front is not commonly used but can help slide the rear to better your position to clear a gate.

The Hightec 5645 is OK but a little light for steering duties.

The motor looks larger because it doesn't have a brushed endbell.

It is normal for the pumpkins to get warm. You need to pack the worm with a good grease, I prefer the Grim Racer Speed Grease which is for marine driveshafts.

Check the CVDs, it seems that a lot of people have problems with locking in the pins.

Other than that, enjoy it.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
You should only go into and out of DIG when stopped or very very slow unless you like to hear a lot of clicking noise.
not gonna happen,my kid is 10.he will be wide open and hitting dig.
he is HARD on drivlines. the axial has the slipper.
is there anykind of slipper for these,what about if ya go moa,a slipper available then?

Yes when you use DIG you lock either the rear (normal) or front axle. Locking the rear allows the front wheels to pull the truck around by anchoring the rear. Locking the front is not commonly used but can help slide the rear to better your position to clear a gate.
got the dig figured out,but when turning in front dig.
the wheels have a walk to them,they push in and out. could be lack of holding power from servo I'm thinking.


The Hightec 5645 is OK but a little light for steering duties.
jr9100t will be on soon if this truck stays in the stable

The motor looks larger because it doesn't have a brushed endbell.
your right,just an optical illusion.

It is normal for the pumpkins to get warm. You need to pack the worm with a good grease, I prefer the Grim Racer Speed Grease which is for marine driveshafts.
pumkins have small screws in center,easy to apply grease.

Check the CVDs, it seems that a lot of people have problems with locking in the pins.
will do

Other than that, enjoy it.
well see how long till he breaks something
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:42 PM   #7
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Your wobble may be from over stressing the cvd's, or worn bearings. These trucks just need the right driver. The most important thing is Patience!
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:11 PM   #8
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You have a slipper already. You can download a manual at Losi's site if you don't have one.

I am now MOA and I love it...I like instant digs and no binding / clicking, etc. Full throttle, no throttle, in a bind...it just doesn't matter as it's instant.

I am using a Beetlejuice chassis and it all works great together.

With two 27T axial motors, MMP, RC4WD Dig on 1300mah Lipo, I get 30 minutes of run time...not going back to shafty anytime soon! It was ok with the stock chassis, but relocating the upper links and using an MOA chassis has made it great.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneed View Post
Your wobble may be from over stressing the cvd's
Agreed, its the walk from working the CVDs at such an angle. I remember the first time I drove my Blazer in 4wd low on pavement coming out of a trail. I could feel the wheel walk back and forth while turning around.


It wont fix the problem but if the rig doesnt have the V3 CVDs from Losi then your gonna want to get them.

As for the dig, I do it at times staying in throttle while releasing the dig and unlocking the rear tires. Ive stretched my springs and still use the factory plastic dig shoes and have no failures yet. Its my way of getting the free wheel/split axle ratio effect in some cases. Worse case is he wears the plastic out and Dad throws 6.00$ into a new pair

Just tell him when he hears that noise to back out of the throttle

Last edited by Robbob; 05-22-2010 at 07:35 PM.
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