12-14-2010, 11:48 PM | #1 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Sturgis
Posts: 719
| moa torque twist? Now with pics!
Hi I have the lcc moa kit on a t1e chassis I have the links mounted on the axle in the stock position and started the links on the chassis as close as I could to the stock chassis . My problem is when I accelerate, my front axle twists forward and my motor moves skyward about 3/8 - 1/2 inch. And also when i push on my axles my chassis twist side to side . I have my lower triangulated and my uppers as much as I could . there is probably 3/4'' of seperation from the link mounting points on the chassis. any Ideas? is the twisting of the chassis normal?
Last edited by camobob; 12-15-2010 at 09:41 AM. |
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12-14-2010, 11:53 PM | #2 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: B-Town Crawlarado
Posts: 77
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Weird? I would say it has to do with suspension geometry? But being the motors are mounted different than other MOA rigs maybe i am wrong?? But kinda sounds like your links are rotating over themselves???
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12-15-2010, 12:00 AM | #3 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
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Sounds like there is not enough vertical seperation at the axles.
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12-15-2010, 12:08 AM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Sturgis
Posts: 719
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Stock mounting points are being used . THey work for every other losi, what would change it now?
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12-15-2010, 12:15 AM | #5 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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They dont work for every Losi. I dont know how some DO get them to work. The front is less noticeable because it will not have axle wrap (what youre experiencing) when driving forward. It will in reverse. The rear is very noticeable for this reason though too. Grab your car by the rear tires and lift it in the air. Now try to rotate the wheels backward while still holding it. You will probably see your motor moving. You can do this with the front too. |
12-15-2010, 12:21 AM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Sydney
Posts: 121
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Is the wheelspeed of the front wheels slower than that of the back wheels?
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12-15-2010, 12:45 AM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Sturgis
Posts: 719
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yes but Im going to switch that wheel speed problem. Should I tap the MOA mount? Or is this not a big problem? It seems like a constantly changing caster angle would not be a valued thing.
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12-15-2010, 12:47 AM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Sturgis
Posts: 719
| yes exactly. is this a problem or should I leave it?also if I have both axles in hand and I push to wheels towards or away from easch other the whole chassis rocks left to right .
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12-15-2010, 12:52 AM | #9 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Sturgis
Posts: 719
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I have two holes like this in the front and they stop this movement should I use them ? I dosent do it in the rear unless I reverse sould I just leave it(the rear) alone?
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12-15-2010, 01:24 AM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Sydney
Posts: 121
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I would fix up both the wheelspeed difference and axle movement. With the front wheels rotating slower, they are acting like a brake and forcing everything to compress, exagerating your linkage problem.
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12-15-2010, 01:38 AM | #11 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Sturgis
Posts: 719
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I have a 14t and 15t pinion and I put the 15 up front thinking it would make the wheels turn faster , was I wrong? And I mounted the links to the top of the moa mount and its completly solved all my strange twisting problems , but Im still going to make the front turn faster especially now that there is hardly any slack in the suspension. Thanks for all your help guys I can finally go to sleep .
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12-15-2010, 03:51 AM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 1,784
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Most the T1E chassis losi moa ive seen have to top of the moa mounts drilled/tapped for the upper links as the T1E is for a berg i believe... can you post up some pics of how you set up the links? it will help people see what they are helping you with |
12-15-2010, 09:37 AM | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Sturgis
Posts: 719
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I think Ive got it . Just need to find a place for the battery now and get it on the rocks It looks tall but thats because its on 6" tires and the lip of my tv tray add another 1/2 " . Gonna bend up a lexan motor protector and look for another 35t lathe for a bit more speed. |
12-15-2010, 11:33 AM | #14 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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I would not worry so much about the front since it will not wrap when going forward, just reverse. I changed mine anyway because it helped so much with other issues like my steering and placing items on the links. It was a trade off. The only real issue with raising your uppers on the axle side is that it increases your anti dive so much. Your chassis compensates for this because it will allow you to raise the uppers at the chassis too. A LCC only has the three holes. You either need to drill another hole or as I found I just dropped the links on the rear to give me more anti squat to match the front. Seems to work really well. On the rear I bought the upgraded AL mount from Losi. I think thats all a guy needs to do on that end. You need to fix your rear uppers at the axle now. You want them to have as much or less separation at the chassis. I would raise the rears up just like you did the front if it were me. |
12-15-2010, 11:41 AM | #15 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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Forgot to add my picture of where I mounted my front uppers. As you can see it has a lot less vertical seperation at the frame then the axle. This is "too much anti dive". Like I said above, I have had luck so far with reducing the vertical seperation on the REAR links to match the angle. It feels like its working good but if somebody else was interested you could also try and drill a hole in the chassis so the angle is not so severe and you would have less anti dive and you could leave the rear links alone. I have too much crap on my links to try this. |
12-15-2010, 12:02 PM | #16 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
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I decided that was a bad picture above because it does not show what I am talking about. You can see where my rear links used to be though. This caused a slight link geometry mis match that I did not like. Here is a recent picture. If you look you can see the links are close to the same angle. |
12-15-2010, 01:57 PM | #17 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 1,784
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As Erik pointed out your rear uppers are your problem, i would get them off the axle and mount them on the moa mount like you did on the front, and on the chassis end if you could lower the link that would be good to but not as important as moving the rear of the uppers |
12-15-2010, 02:00 PM | #18 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 1,784
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12-15-2010, 02:34 PM | #19 |
Wanna get? Gotta want. Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 7,052
| LOL. If you look at the bolts at the axle you will see that I have simply moved from dirt to rust. The snow washes the dirt off for me. No, really I never used to wash my rig because I didnt want to get any electronics wet and I didnt want to remove any grease from movable parts. It would take its toll doing it everyday. Since then I have found the best way to clean my rig. Compressed air! |
12-15-2010, 08:23 PM | #20 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 1,784
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Yep the air and an old paint brush is what i use | |
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