20* clocked c

[camobob]

I picked up a set of metal c's and knuckles and the c's have this 10* adapter inside and I was wondering if I should be clocking my c's forward or towards the chassis? Thanks in advance -Bob

[EeePee]

The Losi optional 20 degree C hubs angle the top of the C towards the chassis, giving a much more positive castor angle.



And they're well worth the cost to have them on the truck.

What brand did you buy that has an adjustment?

[camobob]

hr but they are only 10* and it looks like I have them on wrong.

[Octanas]

Hot Racing ones have the number writen on them... probabbly that's what he got.

Also, they have a plate to make the castor angle at 0º but they don't have a 20º plate.

[xgerstandtx]

so when you have positive 10 or 20 degree's what benefits are you seeing?

[EeePee]

Losi's have a number on them also, 20* and a R or L.

Stock is 10 degrees.

Here's the initial thread: 20 degree axle C's

Personally, I like the way they steer and reach out and grab the edge of a ledge because they've been laid down more than stock. And then because of the new angle they tend to find traction better as you steer and attempt to make it up the ledge.

[camobob]

Thanks , I think I will save some $$$ and just clock another 10* into my axle and since Im running moa I should still be above my links .

[Erik D_lux]

Depending on your setup you might be able to get 20* out of your 10* by playing with your links. If you shorten your uppers it will net you more caster. There are obvious drawback like motor being too low, driveshaft too low etc,. but sometimes it can work to your advantage.

I was able to get more than 20* out of my 10* and I can get a touch over 30* out of my 20* if I want to.

[Rubbaneck]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Depending on your setup you might be able to get 20* out of your 10* by playing with your links. If you shorten your uppers it will net you more caster. There are obvious drawback like motor being too low, driveshaft too low etc,. but sometimes it can work to your advantage.

I was able to get more than 20* out of my 10* and I can get a touch over 30* out of my 20* if I want to.

I've been running about 30-35*.

Here is a few pics of what it looks like clocked tough. I use the Vanquish SLW's front and rear. Front offset is the 850 and the rear is the 600.

[Sneed]

So Jay. Do you shorten the stock uppers? Or keep stock uppers and lengthen the lowers? Striaght lower links F/R?

How's the pinion angle look at full droop?

[Rubbaneck]

Originally Posted by Sneed

So Jay. Do you shorten the stock uppers? Or keep stock uppers and lengthen the lowers? Striaght lower links F/R?

How's the pinion angle look at full droop?

I used the stock upper link and cut a 1/8" off all four rod-ends so a total of 1/4" off each side.

This pic you can kind of see the angle kicking back. Plus the other photo above you can see the servo is really close and low near the shocks.

[rooktakesqueen]

The problem with clocking is that you'll screw up your axle sweep angle.

Originally Posted by camobob

Thanks , I think I will save some $$$ and just clock another 10* into my axle and since Im running moa I should still be above my links .

[rooktakesqueen]

How is your DS liking it? I'm MOA, I think that amount of clocking would shoot the motor way up.

Originally Posted by Rubbaneck

I've been running about 30-35*.

Here is a few pics of what it looks like clocked tough. I use the Vanquish SLW's front and rear. Front offset is the 850 and the rear is the 600.

[camobob]

Originally Posted by rooktakesqueen

The problem with clocking is that you'll screw up your axle sweep angle.

whats a sweep angle ? and if I clocked another 10* into it my motor would be lower not higher.

[Rubbaneck]

Originally Posted by rooktakesqueen

How is your DS liking it? I'm MOA, I think that amount of clocking would shoot the motor way up.

Whats my DS?

And as Camobob said clocking in the negative direction makes the motor or drive shaft sit lower.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Rubbaneck

Whats my DS?

Originally Posted by Rubbaneck

drive shaft

[Rubbaneck]

lol, just like people changing the Speedo name to ESC .


The drive shaft will not interfere with the rocks or anything. It's still plenty high and has smooth operation with no binding.

[rooktakesqueen]

That's what I was wondering...but I'm still thinking the expected life of the DS components will be greatly reduced because of the added angulation.

Originally Posted by Rubbaneck

lol, just like people changing the Speedo name to ESC .


The drive shaft will not interfere with the rocks or anything. It's still plenty high and has smooth operation with no binding.

[rooktakesqueen]

It's the path the axle takes through the suspention cycle (which IS the technical definition of caster...however, people tend to incorrectly think of caster in terms of steering more often than not. In the stricktest of terms (old school, I know) when caster is changed by clocking the axle, the steering "rake" should be returned to it's nominal position. In RC crawling, or other LOW SPEED applications, steering rake can be changed by clocking the axle (aka altering the axle caster) with generally good results.

Originally Posted by camobob

whats a sweep angle ? and if I clocked another 10* into it my motor would be lower not higher.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Rubbaneck

The drive shaft will not interfere with the rocks or anything. It's still plenty high and has smooth operation with no binding.

Yep, just like a high pinion on a 1:1, no matter what angle you are at, the lower control arms mount lower than the pinion....