OverkillRC's: The Phoenix

[ghtpdm5]

first page has what losikid and i both run for links, he runs bought links, i run ones i've made. if you're making them, you can easily get all the links out of a 5ft piece of 5/16".

[ravencr]

Thanks...

Chris

[losikid]

Red Aluminum hardware is in...still waiting on other parts to get here

These bolts are LIGHT, I'll post up weight comparisons soon once i get my new scale (Mine just wouldn't turn on afew days ago, pos harbor frieght junk i guess, its lasted afew years though which ain't bad for a 10.99 special)

[losikid]

Sorry for the delay guys...Its sounding like the skid and fins will be shipping early next week. So late next week i'll be shipping them out.

Here's a little preview

[ghtpdm5]

lol, way to be a tease about it

[montago]

This kit looks top notch and I think I'm going to have to get one.

[smuggl1n]

how much for just the shark fin?

[losikid]

Originally Posted by smuggl1n

how much for just the shark fin?

Not sold separately

[Tortured Witt]

This is definitley what Team Losi needed to take the game to the next level. Thanks Overkill RC.

[ghtpdm5]

you have no idea i just have to solder a motor wire back on and i'll be in business. even i am completely and utterly impressed by the work done on this chassis. i cannot stop looking at this truck. i'll take some pictures tonight, and run them by losikid for posting. may even do a walk around with the new hd cam i have. the whole kit just went together effortlessly, no fuss, no mess. there will be a couple changes from mine to the production kit, mainly the one piece shark fin that the production kits will include.

[ghtpdm5]

alright, enough teasing you guys. this is a production model phoenix ready to roll minus panels. enjoy!











just threw it on the scale 5lbs 0.6oz with cbp.com 1000mah batt (no panels). with the smc c-max 850, that dropped to 4lbs 15.6 oz, again, no panels yet.

[hoghead5150]

what's the belly clearance on that thing!! it looks amazing. also what rear 4 link mount is that on the rear axle, and will something like that be included with the chassis?

[ghtpdm5]

belly clearance on mine is 4.5", we recommend running at around 4" to get the cog lower and to save some wear on the driveshafts. the rear 4 link mount is the overkillrc shark fin. mine is different than the production models, i just can't take it off..was the first. this raises the link separation over an inch from stock, and its what allows this thing to get some air under it.

[hoghead5150]

well i guess i better start begging the wife for more funds!!

[ghtpdm5]

it really does transform the truck, for video of the pre-production prototype, see losikid's thread in the videos section linked at the bottom of this page. this has taken many, many hours of testing to get just right. from the original drawing in august, to the final reveal of a finshed product truck today. i think its safe to say that this is the ultimate losi specific chassis, designed for losi drivers, by losi drivers.

[losikid]

I wonder if we should call it the widow maker

[ghtpdm5]

I'm a fan of phoenix myself, it is pretty sinister looking assembled though

[dieselmudder]

phoenix is fitting, i like it.

[ghtpdm5]

alright, a little bit of boring technical stuff here, has to do with assembly of the chassis kit.

first thing are the captured rods for the links. now this is a very good and strong way to attached the lower links, its the reason why we chose to do them this way. the skid and the rod are very tight tolerance though. this is a good thing when installed, but the can take a bit to get in the first time. you're going to need a small, blunt, preferably metal object to drive the pins home. this isn't a mistake, we wanted them very tight to avoid slop. i have a small chunk of 1/2" tool steel rod i put mine in with. also either make or buy a small diameter pin punch to take them out.

now onto the shark fin. you'll notice the delrin spacers that will be included with it. with straight rod ends will bind against the chassis without them, and since they are threaded, tighten them down as much as you want. i have not tested if they are needed for bent ends.

the dig servo mount is assembled a little different than you'd think. if you look at mine in the previous pictures, you'll see that it is assembled from the bottom instead of from the top. with a bodiless chassis, its way easier to do it that way for the end user. assembly method would go (from bottom up) servo->1/8" servo mount plate->1/4"x1/4"piece. then bolt that to the side plate of the chassis. there are different ways to assemble this mount, one way puts the horn closer to the motor and the other further. i like the further one, i used some scrap 4-40 all-thread to make it, a long 4-40 bolt with the head removed would also do. this is a choice left to the builder really, i like having it further away because i can remove the motor completely from the chassis with ease.

the inserts. you'll need an 11/64" bit to drill out holes, and then a small 4-40 screw (~1/4") to drive them in. now these are a little intimidating at first, but the first one is the hardest. big thing here is to take your time, the bit will usually follow the hole pretty well if you don't force it. just drill out the holes and drive the insert in with your little screw, back the screw out, and you're done! much stonger than threading into the losi plastics. on the rear axle, be sure to remove the 2 2-56 cap heads (the little buggers that take the 2mm or 5/64" wrench) before drilling. makes it way easier. you may have to shave a little off the insert to get the bolt to seat back in perfect. i've found that even with just the top 4 done, it reduced case flex considerably, with all of them done, the axle is solid as a rock. did the whole transmission too, cheap insurance. there are 4 supplied for the rear axle, and 4 for the transmission mount holes.

[hoghead5150]

so custom links will be needed, how about the driveshafts? will the stock LCC driveshafts work, or are custom shafts needed also?