jebster's lcc

[jebster]

this is the beginning. i've always wanted to try the lcc. the worm drive seemed like a very interesting option. so, i picked up a nearly complete lcc in trade. looks to have some nice upgrades (aluminum knuckles and lockouts, dig servo mount, etc) and is in pretty good shape. it needs links, electronics and some shoes and it will be ready to go. not sure if i'll be using this as a comp rig (have a moa and sportsman already) so this might be a bashing for my kids.

for electronics i'll be running a goat 3s, novak 18.5 crawler, 3s lipos and the servo is still tbd. same for the wheels. might try using my stock xr10 wheels with rovers.

the first question i have (and i know i still need to search through this forum) is how long are stock lcc links, top and bottom? i need to make some up.

a couple pics of my acquisition:

[relic68]

Good start, first off I would stay away from the Goat 3s. I picked up 6 reverse penalties at the U.S. Indoor last weekend because of one. If you have a battery that is over voltage a little on one cell it will freak out on you. I would go to a MMP one cell . The ballistic motor is fine with the MMP. Second on the list would be to set this up with a 40/60 split on the links. Moves a little weight forward and helps out with breakover. Third and last , the stock XR10 wheels seem like a good deal, but they won't let you turn lock to lock. They bind up since they hit the drag link. Junfac spacers will help with this, use the red ones if you go that direction. Good Luck and Have Fun with the LCC!

[dentonmac]

That did come with some nice upgrades!

On the links, the stock ones are short anyways. They set the wheelbase at about 12.25. I had to add spacers to get the WB to 12.5.

I put the d-lux bent links on. Then removed them from the front. Really like it.

I know you are wanting eye-to-eye, but I have my rig and no measuring device. Once I get the planets aligned, I will get you the e-t-e. Unless someone else is quicker on the draw.

Check out redrockin or Pete's tinker thread. They were very successful making their own.

[jebster]

Originally Posted by relic68

Good start, first off I would stay away from the Goat 3s. I picked up 6 reverse penalties at the U.S. Indoor last weekend because of one. If you have a battery that is over voltage a little on one cell it will freak out on you. I would go to a MMP one cell . The ballistic motor is fine with the MMP. Second on the list would be to set this up with a 40/60 split on the links. Moves a little weight forward and helps out with breakover. Third and last , the stock XR10 wheels seem like a good deal, but they won't let you turn lock to lock. They bind up since they hit the drag link. Junfac spacers will help with this, use the red ones if you go that direction. Good Luck and Have Fun with the LCC!

i appreciate the advice. i do have some junfac spacers so i hope that is enough to prevent binding. on the esc front i already have the goat 3s (pulled out of another rig) so i'll be sticking with that since i'm probably not going to comp. if i do start to comp i'll look into a new esc. and the advice on the links is a good one. hadn't thought of that. need to go do some measurements and a little algebra!

[hoghead5150]

i ran the stock xr10 wheels for a little while. they work with the 13mm junfac spacers, but it's better with the 19mm ones in the front, and the 13mm's in the rear. as for links i went with crawler innovations high clearance delrin links in the rear. with jato rod ends they set the wheelbase at 12.5 inches.

my stock links are 5 1/4 lowers eye to eye, uppers are 4 3/4.

[jebster]

Originally Posted by hoghead5150

i ran the stock xr10 wheels for a little while. they work with the 13mm junfac spacers, but it's better with the 19mm ones in the front, and the 13mm's in the rear. as for links i went with crawler innovations high clearance delrin links in the rear. with jato rod ends they set the wheelbase at 12.5 inches.

my stock links are 5 1/4 lowers eye to eye, uppers are 4 3/4.

thanks for the measurements on the links. and i believe i have the 13mm spacers to i will probably just have to live with it for now. at this point i have too many rigs and it's tough to fund parts for all of them. that's what i get for wanting variety!

[jebster]

another question. instead of a novak 18.5 bl crawler motor i do have a novak ballistic 13.5 bl (non-crawler). would that be too fast for the lcc? what are the pro/cons?

(i have the 18.5 in my scx10 and picked up a 13.5 cheap. my original plan was for th 18.5 in the lcc and the 13.5 in the scx10)

[AlexG]

Not too fast but I wouldn't go any faster. You'll draw more amp so you'll need high C rated battery

[jebster]

another question. i've been going through the pic thread and have noticed very few people run the servo and battery on the front axle with the lcc. any reason why? most axials and venom rigs do that so i was curious if people have had an issue with that configuration on the lcc.

i am measuring up something to give it a try. i hope to have something mocked up this week. i want to tuck the servo between the knuckle and the worm housing (basically sitting flat on the axle shock tabs) and do the same for the battery.

[AlexG]

www.rccrawler-france.com: Forum Dedié aux Crawler et Scales Radio-Commandé en France, Conseils, Astuces pour Créations Chassis Complet, News, Galeries Photos, Liens Utiles • Afficher le sujet - la loenig de razor

It's not mine.

The idea with the front battery servo plate is that you can move more weight in front without adding "any".

[jebster]

Originally Posted by alexus

www.rccrawler-france.com: Forum Dedié aux Crawler et Scales Radio-Commandé en France, Conseils, Astuces pour Créations Chassis Complet, News, Galeries Photos, Liens Utiles • Afficher le sujet - la loenig de razor

It's not mine.

The idea with the front battery servo plate is that you can move more weight in front without adding "any".

while i can't read the text (i can barely handle english!) that is pretty much what i had in mind. i'll post some pics when i get my mocked up.

[jebster]

starting mocking up my servo mount using a nylon cutting board (save the derlin for when i get it just right). there will be a bolt threaded through the upper shock mount hole in the block to hold it in place. the blocks on the center of the axle will give me the mounting point for one side of the servo. the tab sticking out (pardon it for not being centered) is the new upper link mounting point. i will replicate the lower block on the other side and use that for mounting the battery.

i think it looks reasonable. any suggestions before i start cutting into my derlin?

[ghtpdm5]

from here, it looks like the tires and the servo and battery will get to be good friends...mainly on the battery side. other than that, its a different take on doing a losi front end, and i have to say i like the ingenuity on it keep at it and i'm sure you'll get it down.

[hoghead5150]

where ya gonna mount the shocks?

[jebster]

Originally Posted by ghtpdm5

from here, it looks like the tires and the servo and battery will get to be good friends...mainly on the battery side. other than that, its a different take on doing a losi front end, and i have to say i like the ingenuity on it keep at it and i'm sure you'll get it down.

it's not in the pics but i did mount up some tires and it appears the battery and servo should have just enough room to get only a little buffing! i will have to run a pretty wide offset to do that. when i mocked it up it would put the width as about 11.25", which is about the same as my xr10. i'll bolt things down tonight and get some pics to see if it will work.

Originally Posted by hoghead5150

where ya gonna mount the shocks?

i plan on mounting them on the the lower mounting tab, next to the lower link. the shocks i have won't work as is (the spring catches the back of the servo since the servo is pushed back on the axle) but i think switching over to mini-t springs should solve that problem. i might have an issue with the tire getting into the shock. haven't mocked that up yet.

[jebster]

i bolted up my test components and dropped a servo on to see if i'll have issues with the tire rubbing th servo. looks ok by me. with the wheels i have on (xr10 with wideners) i'm at 10.5" so i would push each side out another 0.25" eventually. with the width as is i would get a little rub on the servo arm. i think i'm liking this setup!

i checked my battery and it is looking like it will be OK too. now it just need to get some links and shocks on to check all the clearances. if it all lines up fine i'll start cutting out the final pieces.

a couple pics from tonight:

[jebster]

trying to pic up a dmg a.l.t topper for my lcc. looks pretty good. has anyone had clearance issues with this installed? binding with shock mounts, etc.?

[hoghead5150]

might look into some 19mm wideners for the front. i was running them and it put my track width with xr10 wheels right at 11 inches outside tire to outside tire. i ran the 13mm ones in the rear. might give you enough room on the front to clear the servo and battery!

[jebster]

i broken into the derlin the last couple nights and started making my components. have the two blocks that sit centered over the axle that will be the mounting point for one side of the servo and the new upper link mount (on the top block tab). also made the lower plate that the servo sits on. got it to sit down right on top of the axle. i think it came out pretty nice. now i have the servo pretty low. i'll be making a similar lower plate for the battery on the opposite side. i will have to play with the drag link and steering link as i think the servo horn will interfer now. worst case i have the horn pointed up. beyond that the servo appears to be super snug in it's new home.

a few pics of the progress.

[jhghah]

Where are the updates?
Looks good so far.