Starting to mod my LNC

[ghtpdm5]

just solder the leads on to the mains wires for the esc when you're putting it together . best to check spec on the rx BEFORE you plug the bec direct into it, if you have the bec set to 7.4v and the rx can only handle 6.0v, the magic smoke could escape, can't put that back in either

[HellGoneWild]

Thanks for the heads up. I've let plenty of magic smoke out in other e- projects!

[ghtpdm5]

aye, same here. pretty much all the rc electronics have a voltage rating if you dig in to spec for them. with the high torque amp hungry servos used for steering, you really have to balance things out. the ccbec can handle them great, but internals are usually poor to "who thought this would work?". also keep in mind that due to the natural of the worm drives, you're going to be facing a higher amp draw from the motor as well. the inherent friction is just the main factor there. make your battery choice wisely.

[HellGoneWild]

I'm guessing with the battery the higher the "c" rating the better or are we talking brands as well (we get what you pay for type of thing)?

[pajey]

Most lipos are good I mean you look at hobby king turnigy and zippy lipos they are cheap and work very well.

[pajey]

The 'c' is the current. Most lipos are always at least 20c which is alright but anything higher is better. It doesn't matter so much to some but with crawlers and RC's in general a higher current/burst current is always better but you pay more for it.

[killswitch]

30-35C minimum for most brands of packs. Most 20C packs do not like the losi. The CBP 25C 850mah seem to handle it well. Their 35C 1000mah packs are even better, but a little larger. I've killed many of the inexpensive hobbypartz packs using them in my losi...

[Hardline]

C rating means very little by itself. C x MAH equals the max current the battery should deliver, so a big battery doesn't need a big C to push a Losi motor. Small batteries need bigger C's. A 20C pack with 1000 mah in theory will perform the same as a 40C, 500 mah battery. And while it's heavier, it will also last longer. Pick what's important to you.

[ghtpdm5]

have to factor in c pumping in advertising too here. its not an honest way to do business, but a lot do it. cbp.com has posted publicly on this forum tests on their elite series packs. i run their 1000 mah 3s's for practice packs, and smc 45c 850 skinnies for actual runs, both have about the same snap off the line, but for the money, cbp.com has my vote. those packs are still just as hard hitting as they were the first time i powered up my truck.

[minicrawlerguy530]

You should try and post some better pics of how you did your chassis. I'm a little curious as to how you did it

[Stonewall]

Originally Posted by ghtpdm5

its smart money. only thing you have to account for is the size of the thing while doing any design around it. there's also the tekin rs, but that's near double the price last i checked.

if you go with the mmp, the internal bec sucks (dig servo would be about limit imo), and make sure to tack a castle link on if you don't have one already. i personally like the field link card, does basic functions minus a computer. if you plan to stay with the lnc trans only and never run a dig trans, the 1 cell would be great. the one cell has no fan, no switch, and no internal bec. most of the crawler servos are going to be 2s rated now, you'd have to do some funky things or just push limits to run a dig servo (typically 6.0v rated) on one external bec with a 1 cell.

I have the RS and love the small footprint and the hotwire is great too but I also had a castle esc on my LMC and worked great. Unless you can get a good deal I would get the MMP. I decided with tekin because at the time I could afford it and have always been partial to the brand going back to my Clod racing days. Those days were.great!

[HellGoneWild]

took the Dremel cut off disc and made the cuts and cleaned them up with the sanding cylinder. I used the edge of my work bench to bend the upper beam down to the hole.

[minicrawlerguy530]

I went through one chassis plate trying to just center my trans lol but thanks bud. I was wondering how you did it

[HellGoneWild]

this is what I used to "skin" the lower links: