liv3mind's lnc stuff

[Liv3mind]

Originally Posted by Robbob

its starting .......

Axles are cut - just gotta weld them this week.

Well beyond super stoked!

[jlsandkes]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

Put me on your list!!!!

How do I get on this list? No really, how do I get on this list?

[Robbob]

working some tooling

just got a couple cosmetic things to touch up on and a few tool changes.

[Robbob]

Just a couple updates - finalized the tooling ....... and it clears the chassis with stock transmission







One side on first - nut is captured to secure the side plate


Push the stock losi lower pin in



and attach the other side


Stock tranny needs a little notch cut to clear the side



Our tooling is figured out - getting some good ideas from our tester ...... things are rolling smooth for this project.

[barrybelvedere]

I like the way the links mount

[Hardline]

Originally Posted by barrybelvedere

I like the way the links mount

I do too, but the motor is way too high. CG will suffer. Affects driveshaft joint angles too. Motor/tranny should be recessed as deep as possible.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Hardline

I do too, but the motor is way too high. CG will suffer. Affects driveshaft joint angles too. Motor/tranny should be recessed as deep as possible.

Cant sink the transmission any deeper with out widening the whole skid plate. Too many losses for one gain in designing.

I can tell you the motor is less then .220'' higher then if you left it in the stock oversize LNC chassis. As for driveshaft angles ....... if you're worried about them then I would lean to believe your truck needs tuning work.

The concept behind both versions of our un-Stuck is giving a competitive crawler chassis at a price new guys don't get gun shy to. Is it perfect for everyone? No but we seriously feel its a kit that will give some winning competition to all the other kits out there.

We've been driving these trucks for years with that one particular piece of gravity ........ theres more to a truck then just how high a transmission is.

[Hardline]

Hey, good on you. I hope all my competitors feel that CG height isn't all that important.

[Liv3mind]

Robbob that looks absolutely stellar, the link mounting is genius! as to the motor being too high? it looks lower than a tranny flipped lnc to me? it looks like what makes it appear so much higher is the dropped upper chassis rails that sit nice a low? either way it is gorgeous!

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Liv3mind

Robbob that looks absolutely stellar, the link mounting is genius! as to the motor being too high? it looks lower than a tranny flipped lnc to me? it looks like what makes it appear so much higher is the dropped upper chassis rails that sit nice a low? either way it is gorgeous!

Thanks - gotta put it up on shocks and get the links setup for it. Getting there.


Agree it looks a lot higher then it really is. If its really that much of a concern to drivers they could always try cutting the ears off the motor plate and trim the plastic down to mount it lower.

You can see it just looking at this picture but then again Im not an engineer.

[Liv3mind]

Originally Posted by Hardline

Hey, good on you. I hope all my competitors feel that CG height isn't all that important.

i would think if we are worried about .220'' difference in height on the tranny mount (which i think is still likely lower than a flipped stock tranny and those work great), you could likely change the way it drives (cg) by effectively lowering ride height, running a partial droop setup, or even adding a minimal amount unsprung weight to compensate. not that cg is unimportant, but there are ways of very effectively lowering it. it looks to me that if you dropped it any further into the chassis the side rails would be effected and need to be moved out to compensate (which would change the way it handled by pushing weight out to the sides as well, effectivly all of the chassis pieces would then change the cg in other ways) or work would need done to the stock tranny bracket/motor plate, this would completely nullify trying to market a chassis to most people just entering the sport.

the drive shafts will not be an issue, the angles are far more extreme on my losi scale truck and it works every which way you bend it around.

[Liv3mind]

getting some work done on this guy, a complete teardown, putting a brushless system in, doing the jens mod, trimming the body, hoping to get some bumpers/sliders/fender tubes made up sometime soon. i also think i might do the proline 66 f100 body. still unsure. wanna do a 2.2 full scale build with this guy.

[Liv3mind]

Something came in the mail today. This thing is fckin epic. Robbob your the man! I'm wondering if I should start a new thread?

[Robbob]

Happy you like it.

Def was a fun project!


Started building mine last night and our other tester is getting theirs going. If we don't see any unknown problems with them in the next few weeks we should be ready to roll these out soon too.

[Liv3mind]

Successfully de-cased and de-heatsinked my mmp, and it works great and was super easy! now smashed with the rx it's a nice little package, it's like that electronics plate was made for it.

[Liv3mind]

The first suspensions setup I'm going to try will be partial droop front, normal rear.

[Hardline]

I love how low bodies have gotten now that the full-size rule has changed.

[84yoda]

What did he do for your shafts? Cut/weld them?

[Liv3mind]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

What did he do for your shafts? Cut/weld them?

Yes, although im unsure of the specifics on measurements etc, if robbob wants to chime in im sure he will

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

What did he do for your shafts? Cut/weld them?

Originally Posted by Liv3mind

Yes, although im unsure of the specifics on measurements etc, if robbob wants to chime in im sure he will

I cant really say exactly what lengths but Ill best describe what I did.

Cut the Losi shafts about .25 after where it radius's down from the locker.

You need the AR60 pieces cut and mounted to do this part with half the Losi axle case. Put the XR Chub on also.

Slide the xr uni in so it bottoms out on the c hub ......
Slide the losi stubs into the lockers
Eyeball marker where the two would touch and sharpie a line on the xr uni

Dremel the uni but dont try to be exact first shot -

Slide the uni back in and but it against the Losi stub - see how much gap is between the uni part and c hub. I left about 1/16 space

If you have to much gap then just keep dremeling off a little at a time

Make sure you keep the losi stub and matching uni together so you know what side matches.

Do that then weld or find a welder

It sounds long but its rather easy if you take your time.

Im hoping a little life in the Losi could bring back some easier way to do it. Maybe someone will come back out with a Tang style setup or even offer weld jobs. That parts not in my calendar though.