LNC Transmission an Pinion Gear Question! I recently bought my first LNC about a month ago ( completely stock ). I also bought my cousions AX10 ( good parts for a good price! ). The AX10 had a Integy 35T motor on it and I put that on the Night Crawler. It has a lot of torque now with the 20t pinion and all but I was wondering what could I change to make it go faster ( a little more pep to get over the rocks)? Like which gears would I need to change to accomplish more pep?.......Change the pinion gear on the motor or the ones on the outside of the trans???? Thaks For Reading, Murlin :mrgreen: |
Re: LNC Transmission an Pinion Gear Question! Your best bet is to bite the bullet and switch to a Sensored Brushless System. There are a few variables as to what motor and pinion, but a good all around set-up would be: 13.5 motor Mamba Max Pro ESC 15T Pinion 3S Battery I've run this combo in many different rigs with an LNC Trans and had great luck."thumbsup" |
What you also can do is the mod... well I call it JENS-mod...( if you look at his build thread you can see it, modifying the middle gear) and change to a 19t pinion. Next is to change to a Sensored BL system... my suggestion: 18.5 Novak Motor with a MMP or tekin RS with the 4S tap and a 3 or 4 cell LiPo:thumbup: Sent with my GT-S5570 using Tapatalk 2 |
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The Fx-r is for brushed motors only. You need an ESC able to handle sensored brushless motors and have instant reverse. The two best ESCs fitting the bill are Castle Mamba Max Pro and Tekin RS. As for motor I'd suggest a Holmes Hobbies Revolver S 540, which is a sensored outrunner with lots of torque and butter smooth thanks to the 14 poles. With the increased torque you can use a larger pinion, and if the speed still isn't enough just increase the voltage! |
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Not doubting, just disappointed. But glad something better is in the works. |
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http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/team-...-sporty-3.html Post #58 I wish he would explain in more detail. If you figure it out, let me know. |
I run a 18.5 mmp and 20t on 3s. Like it so far |
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My 17.5T is 1870 Kv, and running it with a 12T pinion in the LCC (equivalent to a 15T pinion in the LNC) to me feels a wee bit more sluggish than desired on 4S. I can use a considerably larger pinion without losing too much torque or overheating the motor though, reaching the top speed I want, but I don't because my motor is jerky on very low speed. Switching to a Revolver S I could go up in Kv AND gearing, getting more speed, while at the same time have a smoother operation at low speed! The Revolver is supposed to provide so much more torque that gearing up should be no sweat! 3S should get you a long way, when combined with proper gearing. Quote:
Outrunner = Rotor on the outside. Typically inrunners are: Few poles, high Kv, low torque. Outrunners are: Many poles, low Kv, high torque. Revolver S is the only serial production outrunner with sensor. |
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Front gearbox bracket removed,the other two mounts reduced in length and a new side gearbox mount "fabricated" from a servomount :) The motor-plate is also trimmed a bit ;-) |
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The problem was that you did such a good job lathing the gear I thought it was a factory part. I was thinking, well where did you get that gear from. Sneaky...you made it! Awesome. I know what I am going to try this weekend. |
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I also think I see this in my future. So if your running the stock center and the motor direct to that, what pinion should be used on the motor? How does the ratio change ? I like the idea of being able to slide the motor closer to center again even if it's slight. I need a chassis and Lcc shocks are gunna be in order for ajust ability |
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@ Olle P,-correct me if I'm wrong ;-) |
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The obvious trade-off of course is heat. I need to keep my run times shorter with the 17.5, whereas I can run the revolver S all day long, pack after pack, and never overheat. I am hoping the next generation of revolvers will utilize sensor-based timing advance to achieve a greater rpm range. "thumbsup" |
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- Typically using the same timing on a few pole inrunner and a multi pole outrunner will make more of a difference on the inrunner. (But for my inrunner motor 20 degrees of timing, the MMP maximum, is considered to be "a little".) - With zero physical timing on the sensor the behaviour should be the same in SMART and CHEAT mode, given that the same high speed timing is set. SMART is supposed to work better, because the ESC's electronics can have a hard time keeping up at high sensor speeds. Anyway, I'm now waiting for the Revolver S to come back in stock so I can order one and find out for myself. |
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EDIT: I am running a 17.5 motor also. Quote:
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Smaller p-more torque/less wheel speed Larger p-more wheel speed/less torque If u want to stay cheap and brushed keep your 20t pinion and go get a Titan 21t 550 motor and toss that in. Will I've you more torque and wheel speed. It is like 20$ or so. |
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WHEN you do decide to go brushless, hit us up, we are glad to help. There are alot of wires, and alot of choices....most bad. We will help you not make the mistakes we did. |
^what he said "thumbs up" |
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I am running the Titan setup in my extra lnc still. It's heavy but cheap and powerful |
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It increases (or decreases - I can't remember) the ratio like you are running a much larger pinion (so you get the wheel speed), but it does not seem to lose the low end or heat up the motor that comes with running a much larger pinion. So far i am pretty impressed. Edit: Just thinking after I posted this, the mod might bring brushed motors back into play as a viable option for the Losi....Might |
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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/epyru6um.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/de2etuqu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/jy2uva6y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/2y5agyjy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/20/pujypazu.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: LNC Transmission an Pinion Gear Question! Great start. Work on getting the battery and electronics closer to the axle. The chassis is convenient to place everything, but the worst place to do it. All that weight is up high (Center of Gravity), and sprung (springs having to work the suspension as well as support that weight). With the tiny FXR and small batt, it should be much simpler. Hope that makes sense. Love the Sedonas. Get some more miles on those things, and wash them with Simple Green and they will really come to life. I got my set used (very used) and just was going to run them until I go a new pair. I got a new pair, and ended up putting my old ones back on. I liked the old ones so much, that was two years ago. |
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It's an all purpose cleaner, next to the spray cleaners at any grocery store "thumbsup" |
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Also what is the best way to put my battery (as seen earlier in the thread) onto the axles? Is there an aftermarket batt tray? Lastly what is the best way to lengthen the axles....like, is there spacers you can buy or will I have to manafacture them? |
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If you define the timing angle by how many degrees the motor axle rotates (typical endbell timing) you're correct. The normal way, however, is to define timing in terms of ("ignition") cycles, of which there are more per axle revolution the more poles there are. (A 14 pole motor has seven cycles per axle revolution.) Each cycle is seen as one 360 degrees revolution. Timing is added to make up for delays in "current on" due to electromagnetic and and semiconductor phenomena. This delay (as measured in "per cent of cycle") is typically larger for multipole motors than for low pole motors. Hence you can typically use more timing for a multipole motor than for a two-pole. Quote:
* Smoother at low speed. * More torque. * More efficiency. (Less motor top speed is no disadvantage here.) |
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