Losi Steering mod design

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Hell yes, lookin good so far. Have you decided on a price yet?

Kinda sucks (for me) going through the trouble finding losi aluminum knuckles a while back (gettin hard to find) and blue monkey knuckle weights just to ditch those now. Lol. But this will totally be worth it.

I have done so many things to this axle to get to where I am, that I need to step back and see what all I need to do to get here again!!!

I know, I still have a old set of Erik's knuckle weights and even still have some of his chrome moly worm gear.
When I do a kit, do you guys want the chub mounting holes drilled and tap, or is the clocking something you would rather do?
The brass will be turned to take the VP chubs.
Ernie

[84yoda]

Glad you asked, that crossed my mind earlier. I see two options, ask customer what they want and if they aren't sure, maybe have an average clocking say 15 or 20 degrees in middle hole on chubs? That way they can go up or down. Hopefully others can chime with there thoughts.

[Robbob]

My opinion would be drill the c-hubs but let the customer drill and tap the tube, they could clock it to what they want.

You wont have to worry about special angle requests and the customer can easily just rotate the tube in the housing when he drills and taps that part them self.

[84yoda]

That wont work since he loctites the tubes to housing and drills and taps for screws at shock mounts.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Glad you asked, that crossed my mind earlier. I see two options, ask customer what they want and if they aren't sure, maybe have an average clocking say 15 or 20 degrees in middle hole on chubs? That way they can go up or down. Hopefully others can chime with there thoughts.

This is probably the way I will go, thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by Robbob

My opinion would be drill the c-hubs but let the customer drill and tap the tube, they could clock it to what they want.

You wont have to worry about special angle requests and the customer can easily just rotate the tube in the housing when he drills and taps that part them self.

I'm sure that most of the guys that are interested in these would be capable of drilling and tapping themselves. My concerns with this is some one trying to drill and tap and would strip out the holes in the tubing. But still an option!
Thanks Robbob
Ernie

Originally Posted by 84yoda

That won"t work since he loctites the tubes to housing and drills and taps for screws at shock mounts.

I had to rethink this on the wide axles, I wouldn't be able to get to the screws on the casing capture piece if the tube is glued in.Any ideas on this are welcome.
Ernie

[84yoda]

Derrrrrr lol, I totally over looked that. Oh well, no loctite isn't a deal breaker.

Will there be 2 bolts or 1 bolt each side holding the tubes straight? In one of the pictures (post #78 picture 5) I see 2 bolts but the rest I don't see the second bolt.

Here's a good option for end caps: Hot Racing Losi 1:10 Night Crawler RC Car upgrades and Hop-ups

Something else to consider, 4-40 brass inserts from McMaster. The 4 center bolts around the worm gears is important plus it will add holding force. You could also use them on both ends for extra holding power. Again, the customer could do this but run the risk of messing up. Just something to consider. McMaster part #99362A200.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Derrrrrr lol, I totally over looked that. Oh well, no loctite isn't a deal breaker.

Will there be 2 bolts or 1 bolt each side holding the tubes straight? In one of the pictures (post #78 picture 5) I see 2 bolts but the rest I don't see the second bolt.

Here's a good option for end caps: Hot Racing Losi 1:10 Night Crawler RC Car upgrades and Hop-ups

Something else to consider, 4-40 brass inserts from McMaster. The 4 center bolts around the worm gears is important plus it will add holding force. You could also use them on both ends for extra holding power. Again, the customer could do this but run the risk of messing up. Just something to consider. McMaster part #99362A200.

Not knocking your thinking but my opinion is the HR pieces wouldnt help.

The brass inserts are nice if hes doing complete cases as a ready to sell option and wants the extra work (leading to price increase). But in the years I ran my LCC I never read or had personally split a case. The ones I hated most were the 2-56 screws, stripped those everytime lol.

Personally I think screws through the case and into the tubes like we do with scx axles is sufficient enough. Wether its user installed or vendor installed is up to Cody. I wouldnt worry about gluing the tubes in the housing, you wanna make them easily replaceable if someone (like I have done) breaks a plastic housing.

[84yoda]

HR end caps are just another option instead of cutting up the plastic chubs. Just putting it out there.

The 4-40 threads get stripped around the worm gears plus running 3300kv on 3s brushless power (like me lol), they're definitely needed. Helps keep the plastic from deforming under power and keeps gear mesh solid and bearings lasting longer.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Not knocking your thinking but my opinion is the HR pieces wouldnt help.

The brass inserts are nice if hes doing complete cases as a ready to sell option and wants the extra work (leading to price increase). But in the years I ran my LCC I never read or had personally split a case. The ones I hated most were the 2-56 screws, stripped those everytime lol.

Personally I think screws through the case and into the tubes like we do with scx axles is sufficient enough. Wether its user installed or vendor installed is up to Cody. I wouldnt worry about gluing the tubes in the housing, you wanna make them easily replaceable if someone (like I have done) breaks a plastic housing.

Originally Posted by 84yoda

HR end caps are just another option instead of cutting up the plastic chubs. Just putting it out there.

The 4-40 threads get stripped around the worm gears plus running 3300kv on 3s brushless power (like me lol), they're definitely needed. Helps keep the plastic from deforming under power and keeps gear mesh solid and bearings lasting longer.

Thanks guys, good discussion and I'm listening! Durability is what I'm after, and keeping the cost down as much as I can. So I changed some things up a little. Should have some photos tomorrow.
So for some of you other comp guys that are following along but not letting me know what you thinks is good or bad, you "get what you got". I'm only going to give these one shot. If they don't work out I'm just going to walk away. As I've said before this isn't a business venture for me, but more of an R&D service. The fun in it for me is tinkering, and the last few days these have been more work than fun! So your input is need to help me along!
Ok, I'm off the soap box.
Ernie

[Heido]

Losi's axle cases are so durable, couldn't it be designed as a axle lockout whitch has a tube extension for XR chub? The only downside is it requires a CNC mill...

[Di_Spencer]

Originally Posted by Heido

Losi's axle cases are so durable, couldn't it be designed as a axle lockout whitch has a tube extension for XR chub? The only downside is it requires a CNC mill...

I believe it is because Codyboy is also trying to add weight to the axles. It also still wouldn't be a bolt on upgrade without the modified universals.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

[CODYBOY]

Ok, like many of you know, when designing and trying to build something different, you at times take a step forward and then two steps back!
After looking at the axle sitting on my bench I decided that I may have a weak spot in the design.






Sure enough when I put it in the vise and pulled and twisted it with the brass straight shaft design inside housing it broke one half of the housing.



So I decided I needed to go back to the trumpet design and figure out if I do need to capture the housing ends.
With this design it almost makes the axle a single unit instead of 4 pieces!



You can see I have 4 screws attaching each housing to the brass.






I think this set up will help dissipate heat in the axle, and secure the gears more so they don't flex.

[Robbob]

Do you get much case separation out at the ends of the tubes like this?

Do you think having a collar slide over the tube end would help? The user could just dremel sand the half ears off that are for the old c-hubs.


Other then that I know Im in for a set when you get the axles figured out

[goobs]

Im in for at least 2 sets myself!
its all looking good to me.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Do you get much case separation out at the ends of the tubes like this?

Do you think having a collar slide over the tube end would help? The user could just dremel sand the half ears off that are for the old c-hubs.


Other then that I know Im in for a set when you get the axles figured out

Thanks for the input Rob, not a lot of separation, but the fix could be a easy as dremeling a small notch on each hump and using a small tie strap. If the housing needed to come apart just snip it and replace when your ready to reassemble. Trying to keep the manufacturing of parts to a minimum. But if needed something like you said could be made. You will be at the top of the list.
Ernie

Originally Posted by simo

Mate, this looks brilliant. Can't wait till you get to a "production" stage.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

Thanks simo, still a little ways out, but I have a lot of losi guys helping me out!

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

Thanks for the input Rob, not a lot of separation, but the fix could be a easy as dremeling a small notch on each hump and using a small tie strap. If the housing needed to come apart just snip it and replace when your ready to reassemble. Trying to keep the manufacturing of parts to a minimum. But if needed something like you said could be made. You will be at the top of the list.
Ernie

Hmm ya didnt think of the zip ties.

It could even be something the user chooses too. You can get those cheap aluminum tubes at most train hobbies and cut a couple rings themselves

[84yoda]

Aww those 4 bolts on the front isn't scale!!! Lol just kidding.

Good catch on the weak spot. Your definitely doing your homework on this.

Awesome job.

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Aww those 4 bolts on the front isn't scale!!! Lol just kidding.

Good catch on the weak spot. Your definitely doing your homework on this.

Awesome job.

If I remember right, there isn't to much on a comp rig that is scale looking. And for that you just moved down five spots on the list.
Ernie

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by CODYBOY

If I remember right, there isn't to much on a comp rig that is scale looking. And for that you just moved down five spots on the list.
Ernie

Not funny.

[loneranger6886]

I really like your work. I am in school for machining but I just don't feel confident trying this on my own yet, not to mention I can't use the machines for personal projects yet. I am still very interested in these for sure. Great job.