Build thread tester

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Checking formatting etc

I thought of myself as pretty darn lucky when my LHS texted me a picture the SCX10 II kit just minutes after it arrived in their shop. I was planning on waiting and watching everyone's builds while killing some time to see if HPI ever got around to releasing the Venture (grumble grumble grumble, I still want that rig). But as soon as I saw that picture, she had to be mine. And so, I was the lucky recipient of the very first SCX10 II kit to land in our city! (at least as far as I know, there is one other shop but they are dead to me so anything that happens in there doesn't count..).

Like so many others, my plan was to build her up stock and then wait to see what needs upgrading as I go. I have mostly stuck to that. The only place I've strayed form that is the wheels; I had nice set of aluminum bead locks with 8mm wideners so those went on.

The initial plan is to keep this build on the budget side and electronics are going to be the best place to save money.

Hobbywing 1060
PowerHD 13Kg Servo (180ozin)
RC4WD 35T motor (I actually really like these motors, cheap and easily replaced)

And I'll probably end up throwing a CCBEC in as well to make sure I can max out that servo since it's a little low on torque.

I thought I was being sooo original when I picked orange as my colour of choice. Ooops, seeing all the other builds out there, I'm seeing a lot of orange. BUT! No one else seems to have hit my exact tone. I was going for a 1970's VW orange, as a tribute my 1974 Westfalia that was tragically lost to a drunk driver when I was about 18.


My Build tips:(I'll try and consolidate any tips/tricks I come up with here in this first post)

-It should be common knowledge to most people that have put screws into plastic before but, always run a screw into the parts before you assemble them (especially on the roof rack!!!) in order to cut the threads properly.

-When assembling the transmission, over tightening the bolts can cause binding in the transmission.

-When building your shocks, check that the piston moves up/down freely, I had to lightly sand one piston to prevent it from sticking. Boring the shock cylinder would be viable as well but I prefer sanding the psiton because it's cheaper to replace if I mess it up..

-When attaching your servo horn to the pushrod, make sure and put the bolt head towards the chassis and the nut towards the ground - fail to do this, and the bolt will hang up and lock your steering.

-Once everything is installed and wired up, Axial doesn't tell you that on one of your parts trees there is a little bracket that will lock you esc cable into the clip on the battery tray.

-When trimming the body, drill first (or at least mark the drill locations) before you paint. I've don'e every body I've ever painted that way but this time decide to follow the instructions perfectly and ended up seriously regretting it. Once there's paint on the shell, the dimples that define drill points are much harder to see....

A few pics for filler:

Building suspenion:


Servo winch runs under a little toy winch I had laying around:


Elec's in, still finalizing body mount:








Electronics Update:
I opted for a 35T Integy Lathe motor instead of the RC4WD. I've never used a rebuildable motor before and I'm interested to see how this one performs. My guy at the LHS broke it down for me that this motor is 80% better than a disposable and a hand-wound would probably be 20% better than this one. Considering that this motor was $40 compared to the hand-wound Novak at $100, this motor seems like a solid choice. For now...